Spitfire 1500 wheel bearings

[molten]

Hello all

I am currently ready to rebuild my chassis and have a question regarding wheel bearings:

Has anyone ever found the need to change the tapered race that the wheel bearings (front) sit into and why?

This car has been off the road for approx 10 yrs. I am thinking of changing the wheel (hub) bearings as a matter of course (despite current bearings 'seeming' ok) and am wondering if installing new bearing races (seats) would be a good idea at this point.
Can anyone advise?

Many Thanks
Scott

[Velocita Rosso]

When you get the kit you get the seal and inner and outer bearings and races
The Bearings are made in tolerance to fit the supplied races
Always change the WHOLE lot bearings AND races
eg if you have drove 20 k miles on a set and just change the brgs then they wont match the races

[molten]

michael_charlton wrote:

When you get the kit you get the seal and inner and outer bearings and races
The Bearings are made in tolerance to fit the supplied races
Always change the WHOLE lot bearings AND races
eg if you have drove 20 k miles on a set and just change the brgs then they wont match the races

Hi
Thanks for that. I wasn't aware that bearings were toleranced to fit races. Good job I asked. I was thinking to change the lot anyway but wanted some reassurance. I got it.
Thanks again

[rhodes]

All my wheel bearings are over 30 years old but off the road for 20, so mileage only 49k.  Also the driveshaft UJs have never been touched since 1978.  So I wouldn't change the bearings unless you have excessive play.

[sparky_spit]

Inspect them and see what you find. Some original bearings and races, if in good condition, may be better than new ones of dubious manufacture. Clean the taper roller bearings in petrol/parafin/whatever; make sure they are absolutely clean and dry; then spin them and listen to how they sound and how they feel. It will be obvious if they are okay or not. The races should be unmarked with no scores, pitting or rust. A knackered one will have those tell-tale back marks where you will feel an imperfection in the surface with your finger. Check the taper roller bearing fit on the stub axle for slackness; it should be a good (but not tight) fit. If it's really slack then there is a risk of it rotating on the stub-axle in use. If it's like that then the stub axle itself will need replacing. My front bearings are 43 years old and are still fine (famous last words....)

[Pete Lewis]

there is nothing to stop the inner races gradually rotating on the stub purely buybthe bearing drag.
, its supposed to so the load is never stuck in the same place '
only the D washer is locked from rotation .
beware some after market felt seals are far too big and wont fit the hub.

and the felt rubs against the stub carrier the metal  cup is next to the bearing.

end float is 0.004 to 0.008"  , which is approx  nip the castle nut to a stop then back off 1 flat, maybe 2

if there is no end float the bearing will quickly weld itself to the stub and you are in for a few ££££ s to repair it all.
0.008" float gives approx 4mm rock at the tyre

never , never  do these up tight

Pete