flag man Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Really stuck on this one,I need to renovate the front suspension but I can't work out how to remove the splined hub. removed the wire wheel no problem, but obviously with no wheel / tyre resistance I can't remove the 4 nuts holding it on. I have tried locking the hub up with a lump of wood but so far have only succeded in lifting the front of the car of the axel stands. There must be a way..............? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 You need an assistant to put a foot on the brake pedal.And orient the spanner so you are pushing down to undo rather than lifting up.If brakes not serviceable at this point then clearly it will be harder.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Have you tried having someone stamping on the brakes?Ideal solution is a windy gun!Or a socket and tommy bar, rotate the hub so that the bar rests on the floor holding onto a nut! This will then lock the hub while you undo the others, then you will have to use something to hold it while you do the last one.Or try wedging something into the caliper/drum to stop the hub rotating and then use a tommy bar/wheel brace to undo them, if you try to undo them so you are pushing down, (the left side wheels, have the bar pointing forward, the right side the bar pointing to the rear) then you won't lift the car!And if tight you can stand on it to help, but be careful you don't slip and shin yourshelf.Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Ah, the same as nick, but he beat me to it, as I was typing! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flag man Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Thanks all, brakes option is out, calipers off as replacing all the old pipe work. have tried the wedging the whole thing solid with lumps of wood between the floor and the nuts, soon learned the pushing down on the nuts was far safer than the other way lifting the car up. Had hoped that there was a magic solution to this one.Looks like it's just a question of persiverance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 A hammered type impact driver may work.Air or electric one would be better if available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flag man Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Ahh could try that I have a hammer impact driver. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Different brands vary greatly in performance.Not necessarily related to price either.Hope it works,Mal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marktheherald Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 When I had my Midge, I had this to do many times over the years. I used a long bar to wedge the adaptor against the ground and could only use an open ended spanner as the nuts were too close to the splined hub to use a socket....I kept a supply of nuts, as the spanner invariably rounded them off after a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 If my memory serves me right.....its difficult getting a socket onto the nuts as the nuts are quite close to the centre portion of the flangeI could only get an open ended spanner onto my nuts.....so to speak.....so the danger of rounding off nut corners was there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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