things that fell off...

[Saltddirk]

Not really fell off but needing some repair

[Saltddirk]

main breakdown was our wiper motor that shorted, but beside that we need some more carburettor adjustments, the drivers window needs to be reseated, some more electrical gremlins and the overdrive solenoid needs to be replaced....
If you heard us revving till the redline, now you know why...

[Dion]

Things to improve: brake master cylinder leaks a little, thermostat needs replacement, middle exhaust box needs renewing (a very annoying rattle inside), passenger side window needs to be reseated, passenger door lock needs adjustment, find out what little thingy is needed to attach the vent lid rod to the knob, attach the windscreen washer tubes.
New narrow v-belt conversion / alternator / electric Revotec fan worked like a charm.  

[Beans]

Will have a proper look at the car tomorrow. But as she behaved very well the list of things that need sorting might be rather short.
Even a problem that persisted for a few years (part of the dashboard illumination not working) solved itself during the run!

[Nick B.]

Car behaved very well considering it was MOTed 10 days before start after a rebuild. I clocked a total sum of 4468 KM (2780 miles)

Things that need sorting:
New airfilter (after the dielsel fill up incident. Filter are soaked in oil after there has been shot diesel backwards)
OD solenoid is duff, could not engage OD more than 2-4 times a day
Horn push needs adjusting. Can only toot the horn while turning - which were very practical climbing the passes
Passenger side window needs reseating
Driverside door needs re-adjusting - got shaken out of alignment.
H-support rattled itself lose. Tghe two top-bolts need some loctite or nylocs. Were tightened twice during the run.


Apart from that I will probably pull the engine out over the winter to inspect the shells. I had a suspiciously low oilpressure at tick-over. Fine when driving.
Install a different gearbox - syncro on third is worn.



Cheers

Nick - Team 9

[yorkshire_spam]

Need to replace the oil pressure warning switch.... the culprit for our oil loss issues.
The diff whine that was annoying me before the 2015 10CR has now reached epic proportions and I think a proper rebuild is now the only option.
The "clonk" from the rear when breaking after reversing - that needs investigation.
The "knock" from the steering when cornering hard - needs investigation.
The way it pulls to the left when you brake really hard - I really should figure that one out!
And it now seems to be running about 1/8th of the gauge hotter than it did a week ago. (It does that to just annoy me)

[Radders]

Change propshaft before Saturday nights rally in Warwickshire as the one on the car was 'chinking' once or twice a day on the run. Adjust the rear brakes, Erm....and that's about it really.

The car performed faultlessly as usual and covered 1,880 miles door to door.  

[JohnD]

Quoted from Nick B.

Car behaved very well considering it was MOTed 10 days before start after a rebuild. I clocked a total sum of 4468 KM (2780 miles)
New airfilter (after the dielsel fill up incident. Filter are soaked in oil after there has been shot diesel backwards)
Nick - Team 9

Do tell!

I did this, very early one morning coming back from Classic Le Mans.    About 8L of Diesel, topped up with petrol.
BInman behind in the barge said there were seven colours of smoke coming out, and it misfired all the way through another two tankfuls of good stuff, until I took out the plugs and hand cleaned the oily stuff out of them.
But in the air filters??  How did it go backwrads?

John

[Nick B.]

Quoted from JohnD

Do tell!

I did this, very early one morning coming back from Classic Le Mans.    About 8L of Diesel, topped up with petrol.
BInman behind in the barge said there were seven colours of smoke coming out, and it misfired all the way through another two tankfuls of good stuff, until I took out the plugs and hand cleaned the oily stuff out of them.
But in the air filters??  How did it go backwrads?

John

I am not entirely sure how it fired through the filters, but can only report that there is a massive amount of soot and oil residue on the filters and inside of bonnet. I am running with gareth Thomas' plasma plugs which seemed to cope fine with diesel. I topped up 11 liters of diesel to the tank, so the mixture should be something like 25 liters of shell power and 11 liters of diesel. Car ran like a dog and fumed heavily out of lille in the morning traffic. I managed to burn about 8 liters of fuel on the motorway, and car ran better after a top up. Still could not floor it without engine knocking and get a somewhat agonal breathing

Cheers

Nick

[thescrapman]

Had a few issues, and then a few more!

Crank pulley came loose, so rad out to fix.

That was spotted whilst changing injectors trying to find out why only 5 would fire.

Metering unit return pipe split.

Kept oiling plugs on over-run descending the passes.

Misfired that got worse limiting usable rev band to 1800 to 2400 rpm.

And the propshaft slidingjoint rattled and banged itself into oblivion.

[Nick Jones]

The Skip was pretty well behaved again in spite of another royal whipping.  I was forced to open my toolbox on Friday morning when the starter forgot what it was for after a comfort stop in the hills above Bolzano. I gave it a clout with a hammer and fortunately it remembered immediately.  It's never done this before and hasn't done it since...... I'm sure it had nothing to do with being parked by Ellis' car the night before........

Oil pressure at hot idle.....   I think this is due to very high oil temperatures caused by me over-baffling the sump.  The oil started clean and was very black after the first day in the mountains...

The diff.... it's been whining for a while, but now it's more like crying and well on the way to howling.

The back brakes need the dust cleaning out (yet again) and adjusting.  There can't be alot left of the  front pads now either.  They've been on since 2009 and had about 5mm left before this event.  That was before I had an almost clear run down Stelvio.......   which made them smell a bit, but nothing worse. Good stuff these DS2500s

2,386 miles door to door.  Our "modified" route included 11 passes over 2000m and 3 more over 1500. MPG average 34.02.  Best tank 41.6, worst 25.9.  Used maybe half a pint of oil and about the same of water.

Nick

[Clive]

Our spit had a couple ofminor issues. It used a bit less than 1/2 litre of oil, but the oil is still almost impossible to see on the dipstick, not black at all.
A fuel pipe gave issues, and needed to be cut back and a new hose lip used.
Alternator adjuster arm fractured. Solved by clamping it together with a nut/bolt/washer, but this was an issue I had a couple of years ago with the previous alternator (now has a baby denso 40A type as opposed to a big 100A ford one) I will investigate some options on this....

[CP72]

The Spitfire behaved well during the official run. On the travel to Lille it lost one the balancing weights on the rear, resulting in a bit of shaking when going quicker than 60mph. The tires had been fitted and balanced in August. On the way home from Rolduc the waterpump (fitted in July) packed up, so the last 250km were done on the back of a recovery car... 😀

[yorkshire_spam]

Quoted from CP72

The Spitfire behaved well during the official run. On the travel to Lille it lost one the balancing weights on the rear, resulting in a bit of shaking when going quicker than 60mph. The tires had been fitted and balanced in August. On the way home from Rolduc the waterpump (fitted in July) packed up, so the last 250km were done on the back of a recovery car... 😀

If only we'd known/been close by! I had a Spitfire water pump in the boot!

[malcty]

The red vitesse had a broken rotor arm and has a rumble from the rear. Otherwise went very well. 2 litres of oil about 32 mpg. A great run. Malc.

[CP72]

Quoted from yorkshire_spam

If only we'd known/been close by! I had a Spitfire water pump in the boot!

I guess, I should have checked it over earlier...

[Roger Keys]

Quoted from Nick Jones

Oil pressure at hot idle.....   I think this is due to very high oil temperatures caused by me over-baffling the sump.  The oil started clean and was very black after the first day in the mountains...

What is your logic behind "over baffling" causing high oil temps?

I had high oil temps too.

[Tim Hunt]

Nothing fell off, the 4A didn't miss a beat the whole trip and averaged 35.25mpg door to door (corrected for a known odometer error of +1.5%). The worst consumption was, predictably 30.32mpg from St Moritz to Steinach, including the Umbrail, Stelvio, Sella and Brenner Passes and the best 39.54mpg from Steinach to Feldkirch, mostly motorway. The car used no water and about two litres of oil, partly due to a small leak from the set screw at the rear of the cylinder head, I tightened this when I spotted the problem after our Friday night stop in Germany. My Kenlowe fan packed up on arrival at Dunkerque and this proved rather awkward during then long delay at the Dartford Crossing. This afternoon I found that the female Lucar earth connection had simply come adrift from the back of the override switch, I wish I had investigated at Dunkerque, I had assumed the problem would be more involved to fix. I think I must have disturbed the connection when fiddling under the dash to reset the trip meter.

Tim

[Nick Jones]

Quoted from roger keys

What is your logic behind "over baffling" causing high oil temps?

I had high oil temps too.

My previous engine with entirely standard sump used to hold it's oil pressure considerably better in spite of high mileage, even when very hard used.  Hot idle pressure never went below 20psi and properly hot @ 2000rpm was 60 psi or 70 psi @ 3000 rpm

The current engine, with less than 10k miles on it, can see idle pressures < 10psi, 45 psi @ 2000 rpm and barely 60 psi @ 3000 rpm.  The gauge and even the relief valve spring are the same actual ones as the old engine. (though I've tried several relief valve springs without much change)

For reasons that don't seem especially obvious now, when I built the current engine I baffled the sump with both a horizontal plate at roughly the normal oil level and a curved vertical plate below it (pic).  What I now realise I didn't do was provide enough oil return pathways so most of the returning oil goes back via the cut-out for the oil pump placing it right back by the oil pick-up.  I think this reduces the natural mixing in the sump and means that the volume of oil in active circulation is seriously reduced.

The effect is (and it's been present on this engine right from the beginning) that the oil pressure falls off very quickly as the engine warms and quickly falls further if put under duress.  It's also noticeable that the oil pressure recovers (to an extent) quite quickly if you stop or even just spend some time going slowly. Presumably because the heat gets dissipated into the rest of the oil.  I've had the same results with VR1 and Millers 20/60.  The latter, which was what was in the sump for the 10CR, fared no better in spite of supposedly higher viscosity rating and is very black after just 2,500 miles.

I now have an oil temperature gauge to fit to get some actual numbers and if the theory is proven I'll either have to fit a cooler or remove the sump and revise/remove the baffling.  The latter is favourite but it's an awkward job on a Vitesse or I'd have done it already.

The better news is that the actual pressures aren't that horrific and the engine actually seems perfectly healthy even now.  

Nick

[Tim Bancroft]

Umm, only thing that played up was the relay for the engine fan packed up.

However, I need to do the following:
1. Fit Shacktune prop that is taking up space in my garage-lot of good there eh!
2. Get gearbox re-built, presently not a nice change, one has to count to 2 before putting into gear!
3. I fitted a new rad before the event and had a the electric fan rad switch put into the bottom tank, a mistake that will be rectified. Also, the switch operates at 95 degrees C, this will be changed for one that switches earlier.
4. New short engine needed, some people (delighted) in telling me that the engine smoked on over-run. Not too upset about this, as far as I know the bottom end has not been apart before, must have done 180K now.
5. Get seats re-upholstered.
6. Get the car re-painted.

Blimey, next year is looking expensive!!!!!

[JohnD]

Nick,
Your explanation, of limited mixing, is most attractive.
How close a fit is the surface plate to the inside of the sump?    

I run a similar baffle, secured by clips welded to the inside wall.   This allows a 1/4" gap all around, and holds the vertical baffle that much off the floor.

John

[GT6boy]

Absolutely love the mastery of understatement with the evidence for the prosecution in the posts above. No reputations were bruised in the making of this latest adventure
  
Well done all on another successful event and keeping the flag flying for Triumphs across Europe 🙂

[PETE MOORE]

Hi, Only thing to fall of was the wiper arm and that was 500mts from home, refitted and no problems.
Other than a bit of oil and water now and again, Oh and a lot of petrol she few round
This was my third 10cr and 1st in my own car, now looking forward to the next

I would like to thank Ellis and this team for a brilliant 10cr

Cheers Pete Moore 10cr team 17075

[richard w]

Hi Pete.
If it was the driver's side, it nearly came off after the 2014 RBRR. I put a small cable tie round the lever that secures the wiper blade to the arm and that seemed to work ok. 3 years later it may have had enough!

As for us, nothing fell off, but we did get through 2 sets of points - rubbish quality condensers seems to be the general consensus - thinking electronic ignition now. Other than that a manual overdrive box would have made the passes easier.

Great run though, we both thoroughly enjoyed it - even with an auto! First time for both of us and we'll definitely do another.

Thanks Ellis and gang for all your hard work.

Richard & Roger - Team 87

[Roger Keys]

Quoted from Nick Jones

My previous engine with entirely standard sump used to hold it's oil pressure considerably better in spite of high mileage, even when very hard used.  Hot idle pressure never went below 20psi and properly hot @ 2000rpm was 60 psi or 70 psi @ 3000 rpm

The current engine, with less than 10k miles on it, can see idle pressures < 10psi, 45 psi @ 2000 rpm and barely 60 psi @ 3000 rpm.  The gauge and even the relief valve spring are the same actual ones as the old engine. (though I've tried several relief valve springs without much change)

For reasons that don't seem especially obvious now, when I built the current engine I baffled the sump with both a horizontal plate at roughly the normal oil level and a curved vertical plate below it (pic).  What I now realise I didn't do was provide enough oil return pathways so most of the returning oil goes back via the cut-out for the oil pump placing it right back by the oil pick-up.  I think this reduces the natural mixing in the sump and means that the volume of oil in active circulation is seriously reduced.

The effect is (and it's been present on this engine right from the beginning) that the oil pressure falls off very quickly as the engine warms and quickly falls further if put under duress.  It's also noticeable that the oil pressure recovers (to an extent) quite quickly if you stop or even just spend some time going slowly. Presumably because the heat gets dissipated into the rest of the oil.  I've had the same results with VR1 and Millers 20/60.  The latter, which was what was in the sump for the 10CR, fared no better in spite of supposedly higher viscosity rating and is very black after just 2,500 miles.

I now have an oil temperature gauge to fit to get some actual numbers and if the theory is proven I'll either have to fit a cooler or remove the sump and revise/remove the baffling.  The latter is favourite but it's an awkward job on a Vitesse or I'd have done it already.

The better news is that the actual pressures aren't that horrific and the engine actually seems perfectly healthy even now.  

Nick

An interesting theroy. I too have my other stag, not baffled did not suffer at all on the last 10CR. This stag, this time, did. Down to less than 7psi at the top of Stelvio. OK, i wasn't kind to it, but then i wasn't last time either.

I baffled it only because under heavy braking all oil pressure was lost. Ive posted elsewhere on the forum about this.

As im pulling off the cross member soon anyway, i may drop the sump and put some holes in the top face of my baffling arrangement.