paulsv8 Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Hi, I’m in a bit of a dilemma, I’ve got two questions I hope someone will bale me out.When I took the cylinder head off I removed all the studs, knowing I’d replace them with new.Well I now have the new studs, and I’ve notice there is a difference. One end of the stud has a thread 21mm down the shaft whilst the other has 12mm with also a vertical cut down the shaft of the thread.Can anyone tell me which end goes into the engine block?For question 2, how do I torque the studs up into the block? Do I put them in finger tight then drop head onto them then torque them all up. Or do I use the two nut method to torque studs into block drop the head onto them then re-torque the head down?Many thanksPaul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Short end into the block!I use one of those 3 sided ecentric cam stud insertes/removers.Otherwise put them in 'fairly' tight, they don't have to be torqued down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulsv8 Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 Hi Richard, thanks for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Like these. Don't worry that they are metric, the fit the imperial size studs.Look on eBay, about £15 for a set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Alternatively two nuts tightened against each other...... free!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 just be careful if using dual nut that you dont overdo it and damage the threads .always use the heavy duty nuts and hard washers , re use of old tired nuts may strip and std grade nuts certainly will let go before the 3/8" 42-46lbft is reached or 6pot Mk11 7/16" 65-70 as do soft std washers spread and will loose torque on the nut very quickly. the slot cut in the block end of the stud is to allow any oil,water etc out as the stud is fitted or the hydraulic force can blow the casting as the stud is wound in.Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 I've just got some replacement studs from Canleys and they don't have the slot like the others do? Is it worth me cutting a slot in with a dremel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69vitesse Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 3398 wrote:I've just got some replacement studs from Canleys and they don't have the slot like the others do? Is it worth me cutting a slot in with a dremel?If you're sure the hole is clean and oil/water free, no.I've always used the trick of dropping a ball bearing down the holes to protect the threads and stop the stud bottoming out so getting a constant preload on the thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Putting a very small slot in the 4 short studs I have won't take 5mins, so will probably give it a go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 as said if the holes dry then your fine, it was probably introduced on the prodn line as the hot wash of the block probably left liquid down the tapped holes, and blowing them out with an airline was a bit pre H &S but messy Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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