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STROMBERG CARB NUMBERS


heralddolly

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Hello.

With so many different Strombergs about (take, for example 150CD's) how significant is the number on the brass tag / body in relation to the car they were originally fitted to.

I appreciate the importance of them being handed or Front & Rear or Left & Right.

Will one set of 150 CD's be as good as the next etc - bearing in mind that some were also designed for emission controlled cars.

Any views would be welcome.

Regards.

Richard.

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You need to check what is inside the body rather than the external label.  Any carb you find now is very likely to have been rebuilt/restored.

There are different needle profiles - which controls the mixture,

There are different needle valves - I found 2 different sizes in a set of stromberg 150's - I think that having left them in would have made it impossible to balance the pair.

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3 wrote:
Hello.

With so many different Strombergs about (take, for example 150CD's) how significant is the number on the brass tag / body in relation to the car they were originally fitted to.

I appreciate the importance of them being handed or Front & Rear or Left & Right.

Will one set of 150 CD's be as good as the next etc - bearing in mind that some were also designed for emission controlled cars.

Any views would be welcome.

Regards.

Richard.



hi Richard

IMHO you can make a good working pair of strombergs out of two randomly chosen ones. For normal use that is.
I've just made a Stromberg CD150(none emission) upgrade on my Vitesse 6. I've chosen two carbs out of three available and did a rebuild. I also bought a pair of Vitesse 6 needles. You have to tell the two carb ID number to get the right ones.
Adjusting and synchronizing the carbs was a great experience.
I had the choise between emission and none emission Strombergs. I chose the latter out of simplicity in use and adjustment.
Actually the linkages caused me much more trouble than the rebuild and the final adjustment. Basically because the spindle diameter in my case varies between the two carbs. Probably also because this was a "street job":-)
For a while I thought it would be possible to use thick-walled fuel hose, inside reinforced with a length of fuel pipe, as linkage. Forget it. The hose is way to torsional flexible. Running out of time I did use the solution for choker linkage though - that's why I know it doesn't work.
One more thing: You might have a accelerator rod linkage to the Carburetor. It can be a fiddle to connect it to a cable based linkage.


Stromberg 150CD - this setup involves a pair of SOLEX to Stromberg inlet manifold converters:



Rebuild Kit:


regards Flemming

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there are a number of spec lists available. here's a plave i use as its local
http://www.carbex.demon.co.uk/page6.html

aswell as damper weights there are 2 coil spring wire diameters, best simple spec is a CD150 has the bottom jet adjuster, and find one with the choke/starting valve on the side ,better than the barrier type which raises the piston and blocks the throat,
originals only used one choke and the rear carb was linked with an excess fuel hose to link the operation ,works fine..
we on the old Vit6 1600 have choke on each carb as they were a job lot , with a siamesed choke cable , saves all the rods and/ or tubes .
with the extarctor 631 we have fitted the OE heavy damper and the thicker spring to with OE  needles .
Pete

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