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Replacement of rear, nearside outrigger...


Scimher

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Bit of a crisis! My poor dear little 1200 conv. has had the bracket that holds the 'tie rod(?) to the outrigger, come adrift. My pro. pal 'tack welded' it as a temporary, get-you-home repair. I've looked at replacement outriggers & plan on getting one, asap, from Chic Doig (who seems to have a good reputation for his panels.etc.)

Question is.......can the old one be removed & the new one replace it, with the body on? Any help, advice, experiences (good & bad), most welcome as I have amother pal who just happens to be a pro. welder, who has kindly promised to tackle it for me - (I shall give whatever help I can!)

Thanks, in advance... 

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So the body was separated in this instance, Peter - could a section of the floor be cut out to gain access??.........Is it relatively easy to make sure that the replacement outrigger is in precisely the right position before being welded? Just wondered if there were any tips for accuracy

(PS. Sorry about hitting the post button twice - perhaps a mod. could get rid of the other duplicate post - I've had a look but cannot see a way of doing it...)

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You could cut some floor out, but you'd still have to get the body to a place where its weight isn't preventing the outrigger being correctly orientated. Plus, you still need to weld to the side rail. Although mine wasn't and I don't know if that's normal.

 

My solution wasn't ideal as the body tub, rear suspension and engine being in restricted where I could measure from. I also lost loads of places I could measure from when I cut off the siderail and replaced it with one I'd made myself. And let's not discuss the boot outriggers which were a completely different shape to what was cut out.

 

The bottom line is, don't try and cut corners to make life easier for this job as it'll only bite you at some point. Ideally you need the body well out if the way of the chassis. What I did was the best solution for my restrictions. 

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http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/chassis.htm

....I've found this, Peter, which indicates that it can be done with the body in place.........Also implies that the outriggers were not a long-lasting component of the chassis, given it dates from '67. Having said that it would have also been referred to in the repair of crash-damaged vehicles, I guess...

(If it becomes a case of removing the body - or even lifting it then I think that we shall have to part company after 12 very happy years together......I cannot afford to pay to have that level of work done by a professional & although I shall insist on paying my friend, who has kindly offered to do the welding, some beer-tokens, I cannot expect him to commit to a 'body-off'.............or even 'body-lifted,' job.)

Anybody else out there in cyber-Herald land wish to add anything? 

 

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Interesting bulletin.

The problem with trying to replace the outrigger in-situ is that it's impossible to get to the top to make the important upper weld. Most "repairers" just ignore this problem and leave the chassis weaker than it should be. The repair then subsequently fails.

That service bulletin proposes a factory approved bodge, whereby a substantial additional plate is added, which can be welded to the sides of the outrigger and the inner lip of the main rail, thus providing the upper strength through that extra plate.

I'd say it's a bit of a bodge and certainly no good for a "concours" (or even A1+) car, but since it's factory approved I don't see any reason not to use that approach in preference to having to part with the car.

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Quoted from RobPearce-

I'd say it's a bit of a bodge and certainly no good for a "concours" (or even A1+) car, but since it's factory approved I don't see any reason not to use that approach in preference to having to part with the car.

But if it's "factory approved," it doesn't really qualify as a bodge, does it, and judging points should not be deducted for a "factory approved" procedure, right? 🤣

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Thanks chaps - anyone who has seen dear 'Little Sis' would certainly never pick her as a future concours contender.......or even an 'A1; plus or otherwise! 🤣

I raised the possibility of cutting a chunk of floor out above where the upper weld would be - Peter stated that there might still be a problem with getting the angle right if the body remained in position........just wondering whether judicious use of a jack might ensure the outrigger gets welded at the correct angle?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you, Antonia & Nick - The work + a new driver's side floor section will be taking place at the top of the drive of a friend of mine. Unbolting the body, whether the bolts will undo or not, simply isn't an option. The days are getting colder & shorter & if she was to be there too long it would probably put him in the divorce court!!!

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I have done a couple over the years, possibly more, with body fitted.

The top plate idea works a treat. Still a bit of faff getting all teh bits cleaned up, and check the siderail where it joins the outrigger. Some are bolted , many are welded. I presume they are welded from the factory though.

Trickiest part is indeed alignment, both height for the body, and also fore/aft for the radius arm position. Careful measurement and support is essential.As is checking the rear tracking. (I would do that before starting, level surface, a tape measure and an assistant, ideally 2 flat bits of wood/steel about 2' long and 4" wide)

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  • 5 months later...

Thanks Clive - am so sorry for the delay in response. I haven't been on here for quite some time...(I have also dropped you a 'PM' - if you haven't got it then do let me know....) To bring you all up to date, I took 'Little Sis' round for assessment, last week, to my friend's house. It was lovely to get behind the wheel again, even though it was only a 3-4mile round trip: my friend said that he would try & do a weld repair using a 2 or 3mm 'plate'....I shall let you all know how that goes....

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....Before you all jump to conclusions, that is the 'get-you-home-repair' by my professional pal so that it would be easily removed...(I hadn't used her since it was done - as ordered by him..😊.. other than to get her to my friend in the village who is going to carry out an 'in situ' repair...)

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...Chunk cut out of the interior to give access....(a technique used by the Reliant Scimitar fraternity to access chassis' for welding repairs without having to lift or remove the body - the 'chunk' is then fibreglassed back into position.......or, in this case, welded back....OR an 'inspection hatch' could be created - there would be no real weakening of the structure!)

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