2500 PI torque settings

[TimW]

Would anyone be able to supply me with the torques setting for the mains and big ends for a 2.5 pi? All of my manuals are for the GT6 so only cover the 2.0L. I'm guessing they could be the same but would like to check

Thanks

Edited April 21, 2021 by TimW

[Ben Hutchings]

If you’re happy with Haynes data: 

Conrod bolts: 38-42 lb/ft

Mains to block: 55-60 lb/ft 

And there’s no distinction between the figures for 2000/2.5PI. Those figure look the same as GT and Spit to me 🤷🏻‍♂️

[TimW]

31 minutes ago, Ben Hutchings said:

If you’re happy with Haynes data: 

Conrod bolts: 38-42 lb/ft

Mains to block: 55-60 lb/ft 

And there’s no distinction between the figures for 2000/2.5PI. Those figure look the same as GT and Spit to me 🤷🏻‍♂️

Thanks Ben. 👍

[RobPearce]

The BL saloon WSM also makes no distinction between 2000 and 2500 on the torque settings, quoting those same figures for Mk1. However, the conrod bolts in the Mk2 section get three different ranges depending on type:

phosphated      38-45

colour dyed      45-50

washer faced bolt     40-45

It also quotes "bearing cap to block" as 50-65, but the Mk1 spec is bang in the middle of that range so I'd stick with that.

[TimW]

21 minutes ago, RobPearce said:

The BL saloon WSM also makes no distinction between 2000 and 2500 on the torque settings, quoting those same figures for Mk1. However, the conrod bolts in the Mk2 section get three different ranges depending on type:

phosphated      38-45

colour dyed      45-50

washer faced bolt     40-45

It also quotes "bearing cap to block" as 50-65, but the Mk1 spec is bang in the middle of that range so I'd stick with that.

Well that puts the cat amongst the pigeons.. The engine is a late mk2 pi block, Mk1 pi cross drilled crank and 2.0L GT6 conrods with new 2.5 pistons. 

Thanks for the reply Rob

[Steve AKA vitessesteve]

https://app.box.com/s/6h4mintc3s2jizy23pt1mhi08hywalbg here is a link to factory workshop manual.

[TimW]

4 minutes ago, vitessesteve said:

https://app.box.com/s/6h4mintc3s2jizy23pt1mhi08hywalbg here is a link to factory workshop manual.

Great help. Thank you Steve

[Ben Hutchings]

46 minutes ago, TimW said:

the engine is a late mk2 pi block, Mk1 pi cross drilled crank and 2.0L GT6 conrods

Woah, pick'n'mix then. So I guess you're looking at the Mk2 main figures, and GT6 big-end figures, as it's the threads we're worried about yea? 

[RobPearce]

I'm fairly sure the conrods are common - with the exception of early Mk1 (pre KC4500) small bearing engines - across all 2L and 2.5L engines. The WSM seems to imply that different types of bolt were used, though. Whether that was a PI vs 2L thing or just a development over time (or even just second-source suppliers) I don't know.

[TimW]

17 minutes ago, Ben Hutchings said:

Woah, pick'n'mix then. So I guess you're looking at the Mk2 main figures, and GT6 big-end figures, as it's the threads we're worried about yea? 

Well I'm sure the conrods are pretty much the same across all 2.0L and 2.5L other than some small differences for earlier rods (like the Mk1 for example) and the same as spitfire 1500. I also think the thread sizes are the same for the mains across all 2.5 and 2.0L (excluding early 2.0L of course) so I'm going with the Mk1 PI figures you posted earlier Ben as these are generally within the figures Rob posted. We managed to find a mk1 pi engine for £20 but the block, conrods and pistons was scrap so we are building a 2.5 using the cross drilled crank, his rods from his 2.0l and the mk2 pi block that his current 2.0L is built into. All to go in an early mk3 GT6 

[TimW]

Quick update

So we weighed all of the new cou ty pistons with rings, gudgeon pins and circlips today. All 6 within 3 grams of each other. Then we did the same to the rods. 4 were withing 8 grams and 2 were 30 grams lighter! We then discovered that 2 of the rods (these are out of the 2.0L engine that we are using the block to build the 2.5) we're spitfire 1500 that had the holes in them. So luckily we managed to save 2 rods from the original Mk1 pi engine. We don't have a facility to weigh the rods ebe to end so we've had to use the the rods as they are. It's only a road car build so even though the manual said no more than 7 gram difference we have no alternative choice. Short block now built and the cam timed in using 2 DTI gauges and a timing wheel. We only get chance to work on the build one day a week so more progress next Friday or Saturday which should see us install the head and rocker gear then attach to the rebuilt o/d gearbox and get it back in the GT6. OH we are also using the 2.5pi sump and had to put a large relief in to clear the steering rack today. 

 

 

[TimW]

Setting up for cam timing