Jump to content

replacing the clutch on a spit-6


vraksianrebel

Recommended Posts

right i have been having real problems getting the car into gear. i crunch when selecting first or reverse and having to get the revs right for 2/3/4, during this time the clutch has felt that it wasnt disengaging properly and i discovered that the master and slave cylinders were leaking, so replaced both of those and its still suffering the same problem. after taking the tunnel out this weekend i have discovered that the slave is pushing the release pivot fork all the way back to the casting on the gearbox so i have realised i also need a new clutch.
im picking up the clutch on friday and hope to get it all fitted this weekend. i have the correct alignment tool for the GT6 gearbox but is there anything else i need or any advice people can give? i get a new release bearing in the kit, is it difficult to remove the old one?
   i have been told the easiest way to get the clutch out is to remove the passenger seat and take the box out inside the car is this right?
thanks for any help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

unless you remove the engine and g/box as one then it's the only way,but even removing them together would probably require removal of the tunnel anyway.

your problem may be that the fulcrum post has worn through the clutch operating fork(it being quite thin and I think from memory made of alloy),you may find the clutch is ok but while the box is out you might as well change it.

while the tunnel cover is out why not make an access plate so you can check the g/box oil level easily. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There could be many reasons for you problems
Its a regular feature for us active event guys
Just done an article for the club mag
Problems:
Worn clutch disc
The slave cylinder can be moved in by loosening the slave pinch bolt which lessens play and travel
I ground some more off the retainer groove for it to move further in
The clutch release bearing yoke may be worn or the pin and brass bushes that sit in the bell housing

Best yank it all out and inspect the lot
Tunnel cover out and drag it all into the cock pit
The insides have to come out as you have to undo the prop and gear box mount

Link to comment
Share on other sites

esxefi wrote:

while the tunnel cover is out why not make an access plate so you can check the g/box oil level easily. :)


I like the idea of that, has anyone done it before & whats the best way to fabricate one so that the cockpit stays dry? Also is a flap in the carpet a good idea, i think mine may fray.

Anyway following this one closely as it's similar to my 'goodbye 2nd gear thread', got new master & slave cylinders to go in over the weekend hopefully, then i may or may not be in a similar gearbox out situation.
RR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

242 wrote:


I like the idea of that, has anyone done it before & whats the best way to fabricate one so that the cockpit stays dry? Also is a flap in the carpet a good idea, i think mine may fray.

Anyway following this one closely as it's similar to my 'goodbye 2nd gear thread', got new master & slave cylinders to go in over the weekend hopefully, then i may or may not be in a similar gearbox out situation.
RR


You cut a circular hole in the tunnel cover ,enough to get your hand through right in line with the filler plug
Make an aluminium cover plate that is 1/2" larger on radius eg 1" bigger than the hole
Use some floppy rubber and cut to same diameter
4 Self tapper screws will then allow you to create a sealed inspection cover fitted to the tunnel cover
The carpet lifts enough for you to undo the cover without any cutting
When undoing the filler plug ,use a 1/2" bi hex socket on the end of a 12" ext bar
When refitting only just nip the plug into place and then it allows easier undoing in future

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used a rectangular hole and cover plate  on mine held in place with self tappers and spire clips as I've got a glass fibre tunnel which would probably strip if I used self tappers directly.

I can pull the tunnel carpet back far enough to access without a flap in the carpet. I always take the footwell carpet out before an oil top up just in case of spillages, easier to wipe off a metal floor pan that a carpet ;-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well last night i managed to get the passenger seat out, the tunnel off and all the bellhousing bolts removed, the engine is supported on a jack and the box is just attached at the rubber mounts, so hopefully tonight i should be able to get the box out. didnt realise how annoying it is to get the bellhousing bolts out when you are by yourself but i managed it in the end. fingers crossed tonight goes well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...