vraksianrebel Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 right i have been having real problems getting the car into gear. i crunch when selecting first or reverse and having to get the revs right for 2/3/4, during this time the clutch has felt that it wasnt disengaging properly and i discovered that the master and slave cylinders were leaking, so replaced both of those and its still suffering the same problem. after taking the tunnel out this weekend i have discovered that the slave is pushing the release pivot fork all the way back to the casting on the gearbox so i have realised i also need a new clutch.im picking up the clutch on friday and hope to get it all fitted this weekend. i have the correct alignment tool for the GT6 gearbox but is there anything else i need or any advice people can give? i get a new release bearing in the kit, is it difficult to remove the old one? i have been told the easiest way to get the clutch out is to remove the passenger seat and take the box out inside the car is this right?thanks for any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 unless you remove the engine and g/box as one then it's the only way,but even removing them together would probably require removal of the tunnel anyway.your problem may be that the fulcrum post has worn through the clutch operating fork(it being quite thin and I think from memory made of alloy),you may find the clutch is ok but while the box is out you might as well change it.while the tunnel cover is out why not make an access plate so you can check the g/box oil level easily. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 There could be many reasons for you problemsIts a regular feature for us active event guysJust done an article for the club magProblems:Worn clutch discThe slave cylinder can be moved in by loosening the slave pinch bolt which lessens play and travelI ground some more off the retainer groove for it to move further inThe clutch release bearing yoke may be worn or the pin and brass bushes that sit in the bell housingBest yank it all out and inspect the lotTunnel cover out and drag it all into the cock pitThe insides have to come out as you have to undo the prop and gear box mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 esxefi wrote:while the tunnel cover is out why not make an access plate so you can check the g/box oil level easily. :)I like the idea of that, has anyone done it before & whats the best way to fabricate one so that the cockpit stays dry? Also is a flap in the carpet a good idea, i think mine may fray.Anyway following this one closely as it's similar to my 'goodbye 2nd gear thread', got new master & slave cylinders to go in over the weekend hopefully, then i may or may not be in a similar gearbox out situation.RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 242 wrote:I like the idea of that, has anyone done it before & whats the best way to fabricate one so that the cockpit stays dry? Also is a flap in the carpet a good idea, i think mine may fray.Anyway following this one closely as it's similar to my 'goodbye 2nd gear thread', got new master & slave cylinders to go in over the weekend hopefully, then i may or may not be in a similar gearbox out situation.RRYou cut a circular hole in the tunnel cover ,enough to get your hand through right in line with the filler plugMake an aluminium cover plate that is 1/2" larger on radius eg 1" bigger than the holeUse some floppy rubber and cut to same diameter4 Self tapper screws will then allow you to create a sealed inspection cover fitted to the tunnel coverThe carpet lifts enough for you to undo the cover without any cutting When undoing the filler plug ,use a 1/2" bi hex socket on the end of a 12" ext barWhen refitting only just nip the plug into place and then it allows easier undoing in future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook1e Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Used a rectangular hole and cover plate on mine held in place with self tappers and spire clips as I've got a glass fibre tunnel which would probably strip if I used self tappers directly.I can pull the tunnel carpet back far enough to access without a flap in the carpet. I always take the footwell carpet out before an oil top up just in case of spillages, easier to wipe off a metal floor pan that a carpet ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Before pulling everything apart, just check that the release arm hasn't pushed through the pivot pin. If it hasn't then something bad has happened further in, and it is not simple wear as that moves things in the other direction.Good luckNick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 cook1e wrote:just in case of spillages, easier to wipe off a metal floor pan that a carpet ;-)It's anti rust protection! :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falkon Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 This is a cover to access the clutch slave, but same idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vraksianrebel Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 well last night i managed to get the passenger seat out, the tunnel off and all the bellhousing bolts removed, the engine is supported on a jack and the box is just attached at the rubber mounts, so hopefully tonight i should be able to get the box out. didnt realise how annoying it is to get the bellhousing bolts out when you are by yourself but i managed it in the end. fingers crossed tonight goes well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 5034 wrote:. didnt realise how annoying it is to get the bellhousing bolts out when you are by yourself but i managed it in the end. fingers crossed tonight goes well The easy way is lock a ring spanner on the engine side and then use two long 1/2" drive extensions on a ratchet handle and undo on the cockpit side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vraksianrebel Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 ok the gearbox is out and fork is fubared also it appears to be a different gearbox than the gt6 one, is this a 3 rail 1850 box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 5034 wrote:ok the gearbox is out and fork is fubared also it appears to be a different gearbox than the gt6 one, is this a 3 rail 1850 box?That is late 1850 single rail, and they all break there or there abouts. get the welder out.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 I wasn't far off then ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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