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MK1 recommissioning/running restoration


Spider

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I am going to be recommissioning my MK1 for it's  50th birthday.

It's a one owner car taken off the road in 1973 and not a lot of miles on it, a few more than the indicated 16000 but still has a lot of original features that have not been messed with, still has 2 original tyres with "stanparts" wheel weights fitted.

I shall post my progress here as I go along.

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I believe the original engine may have run low on oil. It has a replacement engine and I do also have the original motor, I shall rebuild it and keep it with the car, although I shall be fitting a 2.5 motor at some stage, because I have one and it would be rude not to.

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upon removing the n/s front suspension strut I noticed 3 shim washers which I assume came from the 2 lower strut mounting bolts. They obviously have a significance as they would not be there in the first place and Chis Witor would not be selling them. I have looked at the workshop manual and can find no reference to them or how you determine which size to select, can anyone throw any light upon the matter

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As I found 3 one on the floor and two on resting on the front upright after releasing the strut so not sure where each one came from. will have to find some instructions on camber setting to check. I believe one came from the front mounting bolt and 2 from the rear one, I will check for symmetry on the offside strut when I replace the spring on that side. I can then check for camber once reassembled.

Off to read the wksp manual on camber setting.

I will post pictures once I rejoin the club, as it is the nicest car I have had the pleasure of working on. It has not been messed about with much bar a replacement engine, the bodywork is very solid with only one hole in the spare wheel well  and everything else is surface rust only.

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Quoted from Spider-

I believe the original engine may have run low on oil. It has a replacement engine and I do also have the original motor, I shall rebuild it and keep it with the car, although I shall be fitting a 2.5 motor at some stage, because I have one and it would be rude not to.

If it is that original Spider it would be rude to subvert is originality by the insertion of a 2.5 engine! 🙁

 

MUT

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I have the original engine but it needs rebuilding due to previous owner running it low on oil. The motor currently in it is an early 2000 motor but not the original. I will be running it as is for now but I have a 2.5S motor and a 3.45 diff to fit as it will become my main car for daily use and as my tow car.

 I have stripped N/S front suspension to change a broken spring, such a joy to work on as it is a low mileage car that has not been messed about with or bodged by previous specialists and so simple 11 bolts or nuts to remove and the complete suspension is off. Just cleaning up the wheel arch and applying phosphoric acid, zinc phosphate primer and a black gloss top coat.

I will be keeping the original parts with the car when it sells but as I hope not to be the one selling it I don't mind it not being original whilst I am still able to drive.

 I was thinking of putting a BMW motor in it but after driving my old GT6 with a 2.5 motor in it I just fell in love with all that low down torque. I do have a MK2 GT6 that will be getting a fast  road motor (out of Keith Dandridges old GT6) along with efi.

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Few parts received from Chris Witor to move the recommissioning along. 

Will be refitting f n/s suspension tomorrow, and fitting a set of seats purchased from Mad Uncle Ted to replace my seats as all the stitching has rotted. I will stitch them back together as the leather is unmarked if a little dry and the foam has had very little use if any. It still has the plastic protective covering, fitted at the factory, over the door cards but oddly has no door pull handles/arm rests on any of the doors.

I shall be keeping all original parts for the car as it is such a nice example and who ever inherits it may return it to it's original spec. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was considering assembling the brakes with no stone guard for the discs but decided to refit them. So I de-rusted and painted the first one and put it to one side. Now that I am trying to assemble the n/s suspension and brakes, do you think I can find the stone guard? NO talk about senior moment, taken up half a day looking, so now it will be assembled without. I know it will turn up as soon as I have assembled the brakes/hub but it will have to run without for now.

Should be back on her wheels by Monday then to attack the core plugs, sort some electrical gremlins, buy two more tyres have 4 fitted and we should be set to go back on the road, first time since 1973.

I may then have enough spare cash to rejoin the club and start posting some pictures of the ongoing process making this thread a little more interesting.

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Glad I'm not the ony one

Quoted from Spider-

I was considering assembling the brakes with no stone guard for the discs but decided to refit them. So I de-rusted and painted the first one and put it to one side. Now that I am trying to assemble the n/s suspension and brakes, do you think I can find the stone guard? NO talk about senior moment, taken up half a day looking, so now it will be assembled without. I know it will turn up as soon as I have assembled the brakes/hub but it will have to run without for now.

 

Glad I'm not the only one Spider ...... and you are younger than me!

MUT

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Replaced front springs, as one had broken, with stag springs because I had a pair, and I'm on a tight budget, "Budget? what budget?", I fear that it may ride a little high as the springs were 2" longer than originals. I shall replace at a later date probably with a pair of progressive springs.

As I am refurbing the running gear I am cleaning, priming and painting wheel arches. I have some waxoyl for the cavities to protect from the dreaded tin worm. I have heard waxoyl is ok but what would others suggest? Dinitrol? any others worth considering?

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Front suspension back together, new pads, rust proofed painted.

New core plugs, carbs and manifolds reconnected, connected battery and charger, clean points and it runs again. Bugger! leaky rear carb, so tomorrows task, remove carbs and clean off residue and set float levels and new o rings and hopefully should run even better than it did today.

Put 2 tyres Pirelli P600 195/65/15 tyres on the TR6 wheels I have. I have read a few bad reviews of the tyres but at £35 fitted for both I can't complain. Tomorrow 2 x Uniroyals being fitted so I should have some grip at one end at least.

Hoping to be back on the road sometime next week.

Fixed the overdrive last week, solenoid plunger just needed a clean up.

Making progress but it's never as quick as you would like.

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Quoted from andy thompson-

Nothing wrong with the original 2000 if you aren't in a hurry uphills. Managed 36mpg over 4000 miles round Europe recently. Cruising at 60-70mph and no need to downshift out of 4th for roundabouts!

Like my 2000 motors in a GT6 but wasn't sure how tractable they would be in a big saloon. Hopefully I will be able to cope as it is, especially with my o/d now operating, and put off the auto/2500 conversion to a time when I am no longer able to operate a clutch pedal!

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