franksm Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Hey gangLooking at the procedure to replace the bearings within the rear hub, there's lots of mention of using special service tools. No description, though, of what the tools actually do.Any ideas ?I really hate to buy new half-shafts just to get new bearings, when the bearing kit is 1/10th of the cost.CheersFrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Chris Witor sells exchange hubs with new bearings and seals (about £60). All you do is fit a new U/J.Other suppliers may offer similar ....... blah blah.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franksm Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 Thanks Richard, was looking at Paddocks and only saw that they sell either the halfshafts or the bearing kit alone. Just checking the Chris Witor site... it says what he sells is "Rear hub, good S/H, smooth bearings, no excessive play" or "Rear hub bearing kit... requires special tools to fit". Fitting s/h parts is just too random for me. Might be as well maybe to find out what the special tools are and buy those + the bearing kit.Adam: g'day, didn't know you were here ! Long time. Yeah, this is my current project - bodily great, but mechanics and electrics are "work in progress" even though I'm using the car 3 days a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Quote:Rear hub bearing kit: TImken brand name bearings split pin, tab washer, collapsiblespacer and original steel cased leather lipped seals that are not prone to leaking grease intothe brakes as rubber cased seals found in cheap kits often do. (Requires special tools to fit) ........ £27.50Supply and fit new bearing kit (as above) to rear hub including precision re-facing of any bentflange, and replacement of inner adjuster seal collar where necessary. (exchange deposit £47.00) £99.87From his website :- the price has gone up from when I bought a pair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballykine43 Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Hi Frank :Special tools as in instructions. I'm working from the ilustrations at the back of the paper version of the Repair Operations Manual. If you want I can scan the pages and send them to you.S318 Halfshaft assembly holding jig. Fits in your bench vice. the universal joint slips into it and the shaft is held rigid. I'm sure it makes the whole operation a lot easier.M86C. Rear Hub Remover. Bolts onto the rear hub. Large screw is then forced down through it against stub shaft to separate hub from shaft. I used these in my local garage years ago when "Mechanics" tackled most things. Shouldn't be too hard to borrow. Or your local Friendly man might do it for you.S4221A is described as a multi purpose hand press. Fairly standardAdaptor 16 is an outer Taper Bearing remover/replacer adaptor . Might just be Stag specific if you are unluckyS317 Rear Hub adjusting nut wrench. Large flat wrench used to adjust bearing end float and hold nut in place whilst tightening outer lock nut.I have never done this job on a Stag but it doesn't look as if there is anything so special that your local (classic?) garage couldn't do the job for you for a lot less than the difference of £70 sterling per side plus a hefty carriage fee.Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Ballykine43 wrote: S318 Halfshaft assembly holding jig . Fits in your bench vice. the universal joint slips into it and the shaft is held rigid. I'm sure it makes the whole operation a lot easier. M86C. Rear Hub Remover . Bolts onto the rear hub. Large screw is then forced down through it against stub shaft to separate hub from shaft. I used these in my local garage years ago when "Mechanics" tackled most things. Shouldn't be too hard to borrow. Or your local Friendly man might do it for you. S317 Rear Hub adjusting nut wrench. Large flat wrench used to adjust bearing end float and hold nut in place whilst tightening outer lock nut.I have never done this job on a Stag but it doesn't look as if there is anything so special that your local (classic?) garage couldn't do the job for you for a lot less than the difference of £70 sterling per side plus a hefty carriage fee.got all of these - picked em up cheap at an autojumble years ago. I'm in Essex, you are welcome to borrow if you wanna have a go!Looking at the book the other thing you will need is a DTI.RgdsMike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franksm Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 Thanks Brian, Mike. I actually have the "Repair Operation Manual" so can see those tools now...I'm miles from you guys unfortunately, but thanks for the offer.S318 (holding jig) sounds easy enough to do withoutM86C that looks like the doosy right there - sounds like a hub puller - think I've seen such things in Halfords/etcS317 no idea - looks like I could take a standardish wrench and grind it into such a shapeWonder how diffficult it is to replace the bearings once it's all apart - shouldn't think it would be too bad, bearings are bearings.Anyway, a job for the winter I think ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonypy2 Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 I very much doubt a Halfords / Draper type hub puller will do anything - the tool will break first, i.e. threads will "give way". A bell shaped puller, combined with heat (we're not talking blow lamp) and "whacking" with a large hammer may get some movement but you're likely to damage the hub flange. This approach is likely to be far more effective:http://members.visi.net/~kohout/hubpull.htmlBest of luckTony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 The hub puller is huge, the the threaded part itself(from memory) is a 18" or more long, the diameter almost an inch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Parker Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 I own all the special factory tools to do this job and have done over sixty rear hubs.The special Churchill hub puller never fails,but comes close on occasions.Its base is substantial and hence no bent flanges result.The hydraulic portion exerts about 20 tons but this will not usually release the items until several heavy blows are struck on the base.The special vice holder is very useful and can be frabriated out of steel plate.Two spanners can be made by 32mm flat steel plate about 5mm thick ( Thickness of thin locking nut ) cut into four pieces and welded together to form spanner shape ( tee with two legs ) A conventional Pickavant bearing puller can remove the Large bearing on the back of the flange but will damage the bearing as there is no recess behind the bearing.This puller will also remove the small bearing from the spindle after the nuts run out of thread.I never use a crushable sleeve when rebuilding but do use my experienced feel and a heavy punch through either of the two holes in the flange can correct any over tightening.NB Take the outer nut right off to dismantle,discard the washer for the time being , if castle nut put on backwards to same height as spindle to save damage to end of spindle thread and to stop the whole assembly exploding on to the floor when it comes apart .Nyloc ,just replace without washer in place.Stay away from the gas torch and the press,not a job really for DIY light weight tools.Very easy to reassemble. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franksm Posted October 10, 2007 Author Share Posted October 10, 2007 Thanks John - sounds a bit too heavy duty for me and my limited toolbox :(Where did you get these tools ? Guess in this day & age, classic car marts would be the only choice & even then... needle/haystack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Fitcehtts sell complete reconditioned driveshafts with new bearings for £125 each if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Parker Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 franksm wrote:Thanks John - sounds a bit too heavy duty for me and my limited toolbox :(Where did you get these tools ? Guess in this day & age, classic car marts would be the only choice & even then... needle/haystackI purchased the massive puller secondhand about 16 years from a chap that worked at a Leyland dealership that closed down for $nz200.00.I broke the cast steel holder a few years back and made a new out of Steel plate welded together.The two adjusting spanners were easy to make. The Sykes Pickavant bearing set ( with bearing plate ) years ago cost a small fortune.You really are better to bite the bullet and pay the piper otherwise it will become even more costly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 I had one done on a saloon (they are the same, right?) a little while back for the cost of an hour's labour (plus the supply of my own second-hand part). Bloody glad I did it that way now after reading this thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 Earlparts in Derby did me a set of exchange recon rear driveshafts for about £160 for the pair (new bearing, new U/js, new rubber sleeves, all painted up) they looked great and are in the car now.I spoke to them yesterday, as I want a set doing for the Stag. They can do it as the bearings and U/Js are the same on Saloons and Stags, but I think some of the driveshafts are actually longer.Good service, good price I think.RgdsAlan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Parker Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 The rear half shafts from a Mk1 saloon are shorter than a MK2 saloon and/or stag.To put MK1 half shafts in a wide track car like the latter could result in the half shafts popping out whilst flying across a hump back bridge or similar.Whilst the saloon and stag u/js are the same dimensions the STAG u/js are held in place by staking the case or if replaced later ,by the use of washers spot welded in place.Personally I prefer to use all Saloon rear axle components in stags as they are more easily replaced by DIY.The outer flange from a stag is more meater than a saloon but fits all spindles with the same width key.However the Datsun axles on my stag have been in use for more than 20 years without any problems as the suspension components do not have to contend with side loading due to spline lock.Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Russell Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 What model Datsun/Nissan has a suitable halfshaft for a Stag?How easy is it to put a BMW E30 rear axle into a Stag? If one had an E30, does the Diff, etc all fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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