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My GT6 restoration thread -updated 7/3/08


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Got a little bit done this week, now that some parts are in!

rebuilt the calipers with new pistons, seals, etc. The old pistons were pretty much done, alot of scarring in the surfaces.



Here installed on the car after rebuild and paint. Don't worry, that rotor is only being used for test-fit. I have new ones on the way! The entire suspension assemblies and brake lines (stainless) are now pretty much hooked up for a trial fit. Will torque everything down after I install some Nilos seals on the hub (on the way from a Lotus parts place)



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also time to tackle the diff and axles. Opened up the diff and everything looks good, spins smoothly, etc. So I'm not going to rebuild it at this time..just flush the fluid and put some better stuff in. Also took most of the housing apart to clean and paint, put all new grade-8 hardware everywhere. Also put in some poly front bushings on the diff mount and press out the old rear bushings (major pain), only to find that my bushing kit didn't have those...so had to order them. doh!

before:


after. The different paint colors signify different types of paint that I used...black being high-heat and silver just to rustproof the flanges. The red....eh just because something in the back needs to be red, hah.



Also finished up with the steering rack - new boots and rod ends, rebuilt inner tie rods, and rebuilt the lower steering column flex-joint with new grommets and hardware



just an overview of the process

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Out of curiosity, what torque did you do the caliper bolts up to?

I'm about to put mine back together - I've read 45-50ft/lbs for the outer bolts, and 70-80 ft/lbs for the inners - anyone have any conflicting info on these figures?

Cheers
Neil

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npanne wrote:
Out of curiosity, what torque did you do the caliper bolts up to?

I'm about to put mine back together - I've read 45-50ft/lbs for the outer bolts, and 70-80 ft/lbs for the inners - anyone have any conflicting info on these figures?

Cheers
Neil


I haven't done final torques on anything yet. But those are the numbers I have seen at various places as well. I wonder if anyone has contacted anyplace the rebuilds the 16Ps, to see what numbers they use...

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keep in mind that the torque really can't be as important as they make it out to be. There is no gasket in there, and the ONLY partthat matters is the little seal in the pass-through between caliper sides. As long as it's tight enough to seal that little rubber o-ring, that really should be "good enough."

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irish44j wrote:
keep in mind that the torque really can't be as important as they make it out to be. There is no gasket in there, and the ONLY partthat matters is the little seal in the pass-through between caliper sides. As long as it's tight enough to seal that little rubber o-ring, that really should be "good enough."


I don't agree, these are about the most important bolts on the whole car!
When you torque up a bolt it stretches & puts a preload on the joint, if these bolts are not done to the correct torque the force produced when you brake hard could overcome this preload & the caliper will flex.

ps Are you re-using the old bolts? I would have thought they may be use once only jobbies but I may be wrong.

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CharlieB wrote:


I don't agree, these are about the most important bolts on the whole car!
When you torque up a bolt it stretches & puts a preload on the joint, if these bolts are not done to the correct torque the force produced when you brake hard could overcome this preload & the caliper will flex.

ps Are you re-using the old bolts? I would have thought they may be use once only jobbies but I may be wrong.


Sorry, I didn't mean to sound so flip about it. What I meant was that on an iron caliper, which is unlikely to deflect as much, a ballpark torque setting will do - especially in a case such as this where nobody seems to know what the correct torque is anyhow. I'm tightening in the neigborhood of 60-70lbs, which is my guesstimate of what they were when I took them off. Since none of us knows what the factory torque settings are, all we really can do is guess..

Not syaing to just wing it, of course. But a matter of 10lb/ft one way or the other is not going to have a significant effect on an iron caliper...

Yes, re-using the old bolts. They were in excellent shape. They do not appear to be self-locking bolts. If the caliper leaks when tested, I'll replace them.

I'm planning on going to a wilwood setup anyhow eventually. the GT6 calipers weigh a freakin' ton.

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irish44j wrote:
Since none of us knows what the factory torque settings are, all we really can do is guess..

Not syaing to just wing it, of course. But a matter of 10lb/ft one way or the other is not going to have a significant effect on an iron caliper...

Yes, re-using the old bolts. They were in excellent shape. They do not appear to be self-locking bolts. If the caliper leaks when tested, I'll replace them.


It's not about self-locking, it's whether the bolts have stretched, maybe I'm paranoid but when it comes to brakes I'd want to know for sure.

Canleys sell the caliper spacer kits so they should know the torque figures or talk to a brake specialist.

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^^ good point, I will look into it. It will be many, many months before this car sees the road, so I have time ;)


as for today, managed to finish up the rebuild of one of the rear axles/hub assemblies. Disassembled everything, wire wheeled it all to bare metal, repainted, reinstalled bearings/packed, and installed a new rotoflex donut. Also installed new u-joints (the old ones were a MAJOR hassle to remove!) Yes...I did use the Quentin Hazel donut as they cost $75 compared to $200 (+ $$$ shipping) for the metalastiks from UK. Going to change to CV rear axles eventually, so these are just a stopgap anyhow.

Also rebuilt the drum brake componets (and replaced some parts) and got most of the 3-4 layers of old paint off the drum casing, and will repaint soon. That's not rust in the groove, it's old yellow paint (ew...yellow drums)

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Got a bit more done over the last few days:

as suggested, ordered some grade-8 coated bolts to replace the old ones on the calipers. Gotta love McMaster....$8 for about 20 bolts :)



installed the new brake rotors, as well as 7/16" wheel studs made by Steve Downing (if you want some, I can get you his contact #) to replace the tiny 3/8" stockers



Got in new rear bushings (Metalastik)  for the differential, so finally got around to putting it back on the frame - also with Polybush bushings on the front mounts. Also put on the 3/4" spring spacer and new Spitfire engine studs to replace the short diff studs. The only thing isthat the Spitfire studs are TOO long, so I'll have to use a couple washers at the top once the spring is installed





A couple quick questions:

1. Now that the axles are assembled, can I take off the metal band on the new rotoflex donuts? Or should I leave them on until after I install the axles on the car?

2. Any tricks to installing the rear spring? I know about the "bar" method, but didn't know if there's anything easier since I have the body off the car. Any suggestions are welcome.

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My advice would be not to take off the metal bands simply because if you have screwed up something or the couplings need to come off for any reason it'll be easier if you haven't snipped the bands off!

As for spring fitting, just get yourself some 3/8 threaded bar to make 4 super long studs that you can put in the diff top and wind down the spring with. Be warned that the holes in the diff top go right through into the diff so best you lock the threaded bar at a suitable depth to avoid screwing it into your diff workings!

Attach spring eyes to top of vertical links, put top spring plate on to your uber long studs and wing it down. Lock it with the two "free" studs and then replace the uber long studs one by one.

You'll find that without the weight of the car the spring lifter tools don't work well.

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Yup.....no mention of the work he's doing......everyone is standing in the corner of his garage looking at his screwdriver.  

Regarding the work in the photos....  

I'm enjoying watching this project come together.....

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irish44j wrote:
Also put on the 3/4" spring spacer and new Spitfire engine studs to replace the short diff studs. The only thing isthat the Spitfire studs are TOO long, so I'll have to use a couple washers at the top once the spring is installed


You might have a clearance problem with the plate over the diff. Might I suggest you get a die and cut the threads a bit lower and the shorten the studs to suit.

Looking good though!


oh yeah, wow what about the screwdriver?

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irish44j wrote:
ordered some grade-8 coated bolts to replace the old ones on the calipers.

Were the old ones grade 8 ? I don't know I'm just asking.

timbancroft61 wrote:
Re your front hubs: Do fit dust covers over the castellated bolt-it will involve changing the R clip to a split pin.

I think he fitted Nilos seals so no dust cap required.

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npanne - South Essex Fasteners in Colchester will almost be as cheap as that for grade 8 bolts, especially if you take into account shipping costs. They have minimum order of £5 so make sure you order enough stuff to reach a fiver.

http://www.applegate.co.uk/catalogueonline/cla/1179071-1-4-c.htm?view=CATALOGUE_86049

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timbancroft61 wrote:
Re your front hubs: Do fit dust covers over the castellated bolt-it will involve changing the R clip to a split pin.


Tim - the Rclip is just there temporarily until I get the right size split pins next time I go to the parts store. I have Nilos seals on the wheels, so dust covers aren't necessary (though I may fit them anyhow)

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