My Spitfire Restoration

[molten]

Right, been wanting to do this but the number of photo's involved put me off uptil now. Got the bullit in my teeth and am biting down on it as I type.... Here goes...

Car as I bought it in March this year. (dont ask why i parted with money for this but i did - £255).

The stripdown begins:

Blister on rear wheelarch flares went straight through to inner-outer arch on both sides = rear wings off. Just as well as primer on bottom of wings hid the bodge 'overplating'.

[mikeyb]

worth more than you paid in bits - don't worry!

[molten]

Rear inner wings were done near rear valance, whilst wings off.

Drivers sill didnt look right at bottom of door - gap 'huge' as per pic.
After mulling over why this gap was present, I could only think that a repair had been done on bulkhead behing cill radius - Correct, so cut out around old repair and butt-welded new metal back in. Inner sill ok but strengtheners shot-at - off they came and new one put in plus new lower A-post panels, and new outer sills.

To be Continued......

[molten]

Floors were needing some work so cut out old metal and welded new in. Same with boot floor.
All strengthening work was completed whilst tub was still on body. Once the body was completed (almost) the body tub was removed so as full extent of chassis could be seen. Repairable but not good. Front xmember rotten through upto and well into pivot boxes and strengthening struts as seen in pic.. Rest of chassis ok. I managed to pick up a very good chassis for £40 from fleabay, so of in mates truck to collect.
Will add more pics when I can get them off my phone.

Back soon
Molten

[molten]

Never done anything like this before so I wlcome your thoughts, comments & advice - no matter how critical  :-/ :-/

Anyway, new (used) chassis was taken back to bare metal, prepered and 2 healthy coats of POR15

Front suspension rebuild was started - all new fasteners and polybushes.

Calipers refurbished and aia used some leftover engine paint to coat them but to be honest, I think I have made a mistake with the colour red so may overcoat in aluminum colour as its starting to resemble "Optimus Prime" (the main 'goodie' from Transformers movie for those who are wondering)

Front springs have now been changed for pair of red Moss' slightly lowered fast road springs and red calipers dont look too bad together but will still likely change to aluminum colour.

A few more imiges attached for your 'amusement', sorry I mean thoughts.... :X

Cheers
molten

[thescrapman]

I hope you fitted new stretch bolts and o-rings into the calipers.

Cheers

Colin

[alex4wwl]

Hi Molten
I like it, maybe if you sprayed the springs red and shocks silver, could look nice,
in picture 51, what are the bolts sticking out of the rear of the flange?
thanks
Alex

[molten]

2841 wrote:

Hi Molten
I like it, maybe if you sprayed the springs red and shocks silver, could look nice,
in picture 51, what are the bolts sticking out of the rear of the flange?
thanks
Alex

Hi Alex
Springs are now red Moss uprated springs and standard black shocks (i will get a pic on here soon)

The bolts on the rear flange (pic 51)are disc retaining bolts to keep paint out of threads.

Cheers

[molten]

Hello
Waiting for parts (and more funds) so thought I would take a closser look atr the engine. This engine has sat in the dry with the head off for approx 10 years so was interested to see the state of itSo cleaned off the block and removed some ancilliary parts. After cleaning of the block deck and piston crowns 1st, i noticed that there was some pitting on no 4 piston crown. I also noticed pitting on the deck surface between 2 & 3 which looks a bit like the old corrosion around the waterways.

I have checked bore dims and all seem to be around spec (73.7mm) although I can feel the ridges on top of each cylinder. Not sure if i will be resuing this motor but the deck surface pitting and bore ridges have me looking negative about this block so would welcome your opinions.
Many Thanks

[Gt6s]

That pitting between the cylinders looks nasty I would be on the lookout fot another block / engine.

[Scottie55]

I agree with GT6s, pitting like that on the block surface likely to cause problems in future. I had similar on my engine rebuild so had the block decked. If you do that, then you'll need to machine the pistons to size as well. As already suggested, maybe another block is a better option.  

[molten]

Thanks gents
I was expecting that response as I was thinking the same. I have a chance of a full engine (maybe free of charge too), i think it may be from MG midget which i beleive to be same engine so think i will go this route.

I have not yet examined the head from the original motor (came to me dismantled) but if all is ok with it then may be good for a little porting experiment. The saga continues...

[molten]

Right...Been thinking (always dangerous for me) ;D

If I cannot obtain the other 1500 midget engine mentioned earlier, I may be able to put hands on a 1500 'doly' block, which i am informed is same lump.

Is there anything I should be wary of/considering/or be aware of with this doly block option?

Thanks for any tips/pointers
Molten

[Clive]

Identical block. No worries. Check it has the bearing caps in place if it is just a block, more likely it is a short engine with crank/pistons already in.

[molten]

cliftyhanger wrote:

Identical block. No worries. Check it has the bearing caps in place if it is just a block, more likely it is a short engine with crank/pistons already in.

Cheers Clive
Thought so but just checkin'. If the bearing caps are not present (if block only) will the spifire caps be ok to use on doly block?

Thanks

[thescrapman]

If teh caps are missing, walk away. You will need to line bore the replacements. If fact any indication the caps are not in their correct places walk.

Cheers

Colin

[Clive]

they shoudl not be swapped between positions on the same engine, they are all matched to the exact position. Best steer clear if not there. OR you can have some machined to match, but more faff really.

[molten]

Cheers Colin & Clive

Just want to be absolutely certain before parting with any cash.
Lets hope I can get the MG engine and save a lot of hassle.

Cheers gents
Go easy on the beers this evening :X

[roger's-spit]

Hi Molten, I see you have used POR 15 on the chassis, but what are you using for the springs,and calipers and engine? I am a bit further behind than you and just want to get some advice as the pictures look good. Roger

[molten]

2907 wrote:

Hi Molten, I see you have used POR 15 on the chassis, but what are you using for the springs,and calipers and engine? I am a bit further behind than you and just want to get some advice as the pictures look good. Roger

Hi Roger

Initially i simply painted springs with blue smoothrite on the springs with the intention of overcoating with a couple of coats of clear por15.
Calipers; I used some leftover engine enamel and intend over painting with clear por15.

Plans with springs changed slightly when i picked up a pair of now front shocks with lowered coil springs (moss's TT4301). These are red coated so think I will be changing caliper to aluminum colour.
See pics (old wheels attached to get idea of height)
Hope this helps
Cheers

[molten]

2597 wrote:

Cheers Clive
Thought so but just checkin'. If the bearing caps are not present (if block only) will the spifire caps be ok to use on doly block?

Thanks

Comments from seller of doly block "The block looks good with very little sign of bore wear, the engine comes with crank, pistons, conrods, bearing caps etc, but has been dismantled. The deck is also good."

So if midget engine option fails then this should do nicely with correct MK3 cam, as long as crank caps can be identified. So not beaten....just yet 8)

[roger's-spit]

Hi Molton, I certainly need to invest in some POR 15, pics are looking good. Also noticed you have a door gap stay. Was this a bolt on type or did you weld a bar in. Nearly ready to remove my tub now, so your pics are helping.Cheers, Roger.

[molten]

2907 wrote:

Hi Molton, I certainly need to invest in some POR 15, pics are looking good. Also noticed you have a door gap stay. Was this a bolt on type or did you weld a bar in. Nearly ready to remove my tub now, so your pics are helping.Cheers, Roger.

Hi Roger
POR15 does not seem to like going on smooth or clean metal. Better adhesive properies directly on rust - what its intended for. Prepa clean/smooth metal with POR15 metal ready first  (or 'rough-up' to key) - time consuming though necessary. I learned this after por15 flaked of clean metal after a knock - Grrrrr.

Door gap stay was quickly made with a couple of lengths of steel tubing (I have one on each side to hold body as much as possible when off the chassis) welded onto some 100mm x 125m x 5mm flat plate then cut another flatplate same size. Drilled couple of holes for bolts. Welded 2 nuts on either end and simple clamped up on the seams of the door. Pic bellow might give better idea. I made two of these for collecting a secong body tub which turned out to be crap!!


Cheers
Molten

[roger's-spit]

Morning Molten, Happy new year! thanks for the advice and pics.

[molten]

Just waiting for new UJ's & rear diff polybushes for driveshafts so getting ready to get shafts back on chassis.

I have bought some greasable UJ's instead of sealed ones. Not sure if I should have bought sealed???