molten Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 What a CRAP DAY. My day off today and UJ turned up in post - great me thought - get UJ's on halfshafts. Went in garage and was welcomed by a nice large pool pool of water on my floor - garage roof leak - great, so swept holding water off top of roof and off I went to B&Q for some emergency repair mastic. Rip-off that place lately - even worse with 20% VAT!!!Anywhooo, repaired roof - now onto UJ's only to completely knacker up 2 of the bearing cups on one of the UJ >:( & >:( & >:( again. A needle roller must have dropped down when fitting and sat so as to stop me from pressing caps fully home so that circlip could be fitted. These cups were that tight, it has taken me ages to get them back out. So will have to get another flamin' UJ now - fed-upAll this made even worse as wife has not got me my wid-week beers in >:(How you supposed to rebuild a spitfire with no mid-week beers I asks you??Back when I have calmed down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Fiddly job, just take your time and have beers after you finish hitting things with hammers. You'll get it the second time.Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 2402 wrote:Fiddly job, just take your time and have beers after you finish hitting things with hammers. You'll get it the second time.Chris.Hi ChrisYeah, you're right. I found the knack on the 2nd one, which took me 10 mins max - sound familiar?Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Easy when you know how, shame about the first one but i suppose not to bad as it isnt your daily driver. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 2597 wrote:I have bought some greasable UJ's instead of sealed ones. Not sure if I should have bought sealed???Sealed or greasable are ok but you want Heavy Duty for the driveshaft otherwise you will be replacing them again soon. HD UJ's will typically cost over £20 but are worth it imho. Standard are fine for the propshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 HelloNot much progress recently. Funds running low so turned my attention to rear brake hubs. These had plenty rust on them so were de-rusted and inspected. One of the drums have some pitting on the brake surface and some wear near the edge of the hub - couple of pics, one is close-up.When are the hubs 'past it'? When they are like this or would you say these are servicable?Cheers fella's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 How is the thickness of the drum? The pitting doesn't seem to be too bad - looks like it'd scrub out after a bit of mileage or, if it bothers you, you could run some sandpaper around them to get rid of it. If the drums are below minimum thickness then that's it and you need new ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 ThanksWhats the minimum thickness spec on the drum?Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 I don't know off the top of my head but there's usually writing cast or stamped into the drum that tells you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 Hello Wilbo.Cant find anything on hubs themselves (qualcast) nor even searching tinterweb so if anyone knows the wear limit on brake hubs, i'd be greatfullMany ThanksScott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I can't find a minimum drum thickness in my books or on the internet either and my car isn't at home at the moment for me to look at!If I were you I'd just get new ones. They're not that expensive and it'll save you a good deal of hassle both now and in the future. All things considered, I think it's the only sensible thing to do, especially if you've fitted new shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancepar Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 In the Haynes manual on page 197 there is a picture of a brake drum with what looks like information regarding the min’ lining thickness and max’ drum dia’.Which would be great but I can’t read what the dimensions say. Have a look yourself and see if you can work it out. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Scott,I have managed to read the brake drum in the Haynes manual: maximum diameter is 7.005". I looked through all of my manuals yesterday evening for a wear limit, but I never thought to try to read the drum in any of the pictures. Thanks to Lancepar for that! Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 did the owner's manual have a spec for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 Many Thanks gentsThis info should give me something to go off. My Haynes (must be different revision?)manual on p197 doesn't show a hub and the surface of the hub was quite rusted and I can only just make out the 'qualcast' impresion in the casting.So the maximum internal diameter should at least allow me to see if my hubs, are 'past it', though paonted up they look pretty good :)Thanks againWatch this space... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Hi Fella'sLooks like I may have spoken to soon.I did find the picture of the hub mentioned above in the haynes manual, but i cannot read it clearly. I did however come across an inner hub diameter which should be 7" (178mm). Great I thought... until i measured the inner diameter which measured 203mm???Likely these could be original 76' drums and may have worn to some degree but surely not to this extent as the shoes still have 5mm on them.So could I ask a favour form anyone with a 1500 spit?If anyone is currently putting drums back on their spit could you possibly measure the inner diameter of your brake drum and get back to me?Thanks as ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Scott,203mm is very close to 8". Is there a chance your car has GT6 rear brakes? Good luck, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 1317 wrote:Scott,203mm is very close to 8". Is there a chance your car has GT6 rear brakes? Good luck, PaulHi PaulThat is a very good question. I didn't know they were different size :-/.The PO said that the car had a GT6 chassis (difference?) So perhaps it may have GT6 rear brakes?? I am not sure. What is the difference (other than hub size that is) between GT6 brakes and 1500 spit. Logical difference would be increased surface area if hubs are 8".If they are GT6 brakes then at least braking should be a little improved :PCheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Scott,Yes, GT6 rear brakes are 8" drum instead of the 7" of the Spitfire. the important thing about that is that it gives more area to dissipate the heat. You should check the front brakes also as the Gt6 front brakes are also bigger and the front brakes are far more important. Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Hi PaulI haver not double checked yet but think the fronts are standard 1500 as I purchased new discs which seem a little smaller than the dust sheilds so look correct. Unless I am overlooking some obvious detail, I presume this set-up (GT6 rear brakes & standard 1500 fronts) should be fine on normal road going car - perhaps rears might be a bit more effective- maybe?.I am also presuming (hoping) that i do not have to match up the fronts. If I am wrong, someone please tell me & why.If all is cleared up with brakes, I will finally be able to move on and get chassis rolling again over the next week.Thanks to all for your comments.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Scott, The worst thing about mixing the brakes that way is there will probably be a greater tendency to lock the rear wheels on hard braking. You won't be the first to have done this though. Perhaps the best way to re-balance things, if you find you need to, would be to find a more effective front friction material. Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 1317 wrote:Scott, The worst thing about mixing the brakes that way is there will probably be a greater tendency to lock the rear wheels on hard braking. You won't be the first to have done this though. Perhaps the best way to re-balance things, if you find you need to, would be to find a more effective front friction material. Cheers, PaulCheers PaulI will bear this in mind for future. Just got new standard pads on the new front discs so not sure if it will stop anyway :)I have heared that mintex do a pretty good grade of pads. What other good pad manufacturers are recomended?CheersScott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Depends on what kind of driver you are!! Mintex 1144 are generally reckoned to be good, however if you are wanting to track race and use the brakes more heavily, then 1155 work at higher temps better, however they are suffer for normal use when cold. If you are of a more gentle disposition whilst drving you may find some of the EBC pads (green, then yellow, then red if my memory serves me correctly) will suit. Really depends on what you prefer, easiest answer is to try until you find a set that work for you!There is not really a 'correct' answer here, you may get a whole load of opinions on the subject, all you can do is try and decide what works for you.Cheers,Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant racing Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 hi your coming along nicely with your resto.my name is gary fraser and i live in canada.i have a 69 spit and i need a measurement desperately to keep going with the build.i need to know the measurement from the bottom of the frame under the front suspension to the smooth top of the bumper/bonnet support(the curved bit that looks like a boomerang).i cut the front of the old frame off and need the measurement to make sure it goes back on properly. you would have to put a straight edge on the bottom of the frame and extend it forward past the front bonnet mount and then measure up to the TOP of the bonnet mount.i seem to remember 10.25 inches for some reason but need to be absolutely sure before welding it on.i would greatly appreciate it.if this measurement is not correct it will throw off everything. :( i only ask because you seem to be at the stage where the frame is open and easy to get at.i can't even find a spit in my area to measure.ps i was born in scotland and came to canada when i was but a wee lad.lol hope you can help.i see in pic 6201 you have a sign sitting on top of the frame of a wee man running with an arrow pointing down.that is the spot i need measured,from there down to the bottom of the frame under front suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Gary,If you haven't one, this is where you see why a workshop manula is useful.Here's a page from thr Spitfire WSM, of chassis dimensions. If the distance you wnat isn't mentioned, the drawing is accurate and you cam measure what you want and then scale it from a known dimension.The original in my manual is on a sheet only about A5, but I'll send you the best scanned copy I can if you wish, just PM me.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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