rampant racing Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 yes i have that diagram thanks ,but the measurement is not on it.it's about the only one that isn't.lol just my luck.are the front frames the same for spits as they are for gt6,and are all years of the spit of the same front frame design? thanks alot :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 573 wrote:i see in pic 6201 you have a sign sitting on top of the frame of a wee man running with an arrow pointing down.that is the spot i need measured,from there down to the bottom of the frame under front suspension.Hi Gary.I can only tel you what this dimension is on this particular chassis as there will naturally be some variation from one chassis to another.On my chassis; from the underside of the frame rail where the rail is horizontal - to the top face of the front cross member measures 10.25" (260mm)I hope this helps. My original chassis needed a complete new front end and so as to avoid the troubles you are now having, I opted to get another complete chassis. So glad I did as to repair is quite possible but time consuming due to a lot of alignment and checking / double checking, weld tacking, check again etc. All points you will no doubt have to endure with your own chassis. Anyway I hope you manage it all.CheersScott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant racing Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 THANK YOU VERY MUCH,that number confirms what someone else has recently told me.i thought it seemed alot to me as when i put mine on a flat surface and leveled the front it was only 8 inches.must have been something wrong .i am not putting a different front on the old frame i am putting a new front on a new frame.lol i have built a new frame from 2x3x.125" box steel.this a custom frame and will hold a 347 ford stroker,corvette diff,custom front and rear wishbone suspension,coilover shocks etc,etc,etc.i am just at the part of the build where i have to put the bumper mount on and needed the lost dimension.once again i thank you very much .another fellow on the net in the states also gave me that measurement but seeing as how i couldn't confirm it was correct i needed a second opinion. now i can get on with the build(woot)(woot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 573 wrote:THANK YOU VERY MUCH,that number confirms what someone else has recently told me.i thought it seemed alot to me as when i put mine on a flat surface and leveled the front it was only 8 inches.must have been something wrong .i am not putting a different front on the old frame i am putting a new front on a new frame.lol i have built a new frame from 2x3x.125" box steel.this a custom frame and will hold a 347 ford stroker,corvette diff,custom front and rear wishbone suspension,coilover shocks etc,etc,etc.i am just at the part of the build where i have to put the bumper mount on and needed the lost dimension.once again i thank you very much .another fellow on the net in the states also gave me that measurement but seeing as how i couldn't confirm it was correct i needed a second opinion. now i can get on with the build(woot)(woot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 PICS, PICS, PICS, PICS, PICS PLEASE! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 339 wrote:PICS, PICS, PICS, PICS, PICS PLEASE! 8)Agreed, but in another thread :) :)Many Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 OK, Been away for a while waiting on parts etc.Anywhoo, thanks to some advice fron technical chit-chat, I have managed to clear up a missunderstandind I had over rear brakes so back to rear end chassis build-up.Rebuilts rear spring with new thrust buttons (wish I had gone for teflon really but will see how i go) and new polybush spring bushes.Also fitted new polybushes to rear shocks.New polybushes to front and rear diff.Both rear halfshaft bearings & seals replaced. New UJ's installed (after buying a 3rd UJ coz I busted one on installing- doeh). New fasteners all round. I think I have stripped on the of the front diff nuts under torque so will need to look at this tomorrow - new nut and some threadloc may do.Just need to torque up shaft to diff bolts but no room for my socket to get in. Rear shoes and full kunifer brakes pipes next.Any way, a few pics of todays work; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant racing Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 looking good molten soon be back together m8. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 looking at the chart dimension 8 17.375 / 17.250 should help for a cross check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 HelloEven though I would prefer a full width radiator - which I will likely end up with, i decided to take a closer look at the rusted up original. It seems that there is some damage to the fins on the front and the fins seem very soft around these areas as my pointy finger found out. This rad does look as if it is useless but not leaking nor blocked so what do you think - is it work spending any time refurbing or is it 'dead'?CheersScott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Not pretty but it may work quite well still if the tubes are clear.Only way to tell is to try it.Simple to change if is no good so what's to lose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 junkuser wrote:Not pretty but it may work quite well still if the tubes are clear.Only way to tell is to try it.Simple to change if is no good so what's to lose?Yeah, I was thinking about trying to save a little monel initially by refurbing and refitting. I do intend to install a full width rad but my money may be better spent elsewhere at the moment so may try to refurb for now.CheersScott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 HelloI have noticed some swelling between the seams of the tunnel that sits over the diff and the rear boot floor, and also on the underside of rear valance/boot floor. I have decided to carefully open up the seams between spotwelds (done with small flat screwdriver - Still got strong spot welds.). I know this is probably unconventional but hear me out... My intention is:Get some rust converter (vatcan) into the open seams. When cured, use silicone gun to squirt some PU sealant into seam and close back seam & clamp whilst PU cures.Put some more PU over the now closed (clamped) seam joint external.PU seal the inside joint of the seam(in the boot).Apply vatcan rust converter to slight rust areas on underside of boot floor etcBrush apply undiluted bonda zinc primer.I read in another thread that a preference would be to prime first then seal the seam. Would that work any better than my proposed approach here?Thanks gents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 New kunifer pipes now fitted. Rear brake cables installed so wheeled outside for first time so I could turn body tub round.Some pics for youcheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simo Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hello all simon from telford here, thanks for all info on this forum it is great, i am rstoring a spitfire 1500 my self had it for 10 years now and stood in garage for bout 3 years but now it is having some atention , needs nwe driver floor, inner sill ,inner arch and chassis repair gone at froint drivers side by bonet post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hi SimonThe conditions seen in your photos will have been seem by almost all forum members at some point (or they will yet see). All typical spitfire rust-prone areas. If I can be of any help, just ask.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simo Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Yes it seems to be the case with the rot problem i was goignt o patch but i thourght i woudl go all out and change panells, never done worl liek this before but it will atll turn out ok got a good welder to help me out, i doing all the floor and inner sill while it is still bolted to chassis and hard top on, just need to fond someway to paint it proper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Yank Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Now that's some serious nice work, Molten. Well done. Keep it going! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 3368 wrote:Now that's some serious nice work, Molten. Well done. Keep it going!Thanks MarkProgress really slow at present getting bodywork to paintable surface.However, managed to get the inside of the chassis rails waxoyled at weekend. May have bnoted on other thread that I have been working on undercarriage and have decided to strip it back to bare metal and treat any rust areas with phosphoric acid. So delayed the intended painting of undercarriage.Plan is to etch, stonechip (thinned for smoother finishes) a few layers, then colour etc so that I can get the tub back on the chassis to get more room back in garage and to be able to roll in and out. Not much tosee at present but will get some more pics when there is something to see.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Good work; my shell looked like this before paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Hi RedroosterThat shell looks like a lot of prep work was involved. Nice finishcheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Nice! If my car looks half as good as that when I'm done welding, I'll be chuffed! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 As body work is so slow at the moment, I thought that i would post some pics of the bad parts of the car body before they were repaired.Boot: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 more pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 and more.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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