Matt306 Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Right fixed my engine hoist a 25 eBay purchase and mounted the engine side on to the engine mount. I have removed the bearings from my 1600 vitesse engine. The big end bearings are +30 does this mean they have had work before? The mains seem standard but the crank has a noticeable ridge on the journal does it need machining? https://photos.app.goo.gl/9gNSM0i5l7BMf1ST2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 +0.030 BEs mean the crank has been ground before. +0.030 suggests either more than once or that at least one journal was quite bad as bearings are available in 0.010 increments.If you can feel ridges on the main journals at edges or where the central oil groove is then it'll need grinding.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 Grrrr more money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimEB Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Quoted from Matt306 Grrrr more money Welcome to Triumph ownership Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Quoted from JimEB Welcome to Triumph ownership Why be so specific...... it's a feature of car ownership........ Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 Got the crank out this morning no scoring apart from the ridges on the two centre Mains. The outside Mains don't have any ridges at all.With the pistons out there is a slight lip at the top of the bore presumably where the piston rings reach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Centre mains take more thump so wear more. Bore lip does indeed mark the furthest extent of ring travel and shows there is some wear present. However, you may be ok to just hone and re-ring. Unless you have the correct measuring equipment at home you really need to get it all to your favourite machine shop for assessment.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 Going to get the block dipped. It has been say for some time and has rust evidence and clean the oil galleries out some thick gunk in the bottom end.I'll get a measure from my friendly mechanic at the back of mine. Hoping be posting rings will do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 Following on from my bearings, I dropped the sump of the herald today concerned by the low oil pressure at idle when hot. Yes the mains are shot little bit of scoring on the bearing journal looks ok from under neath no oil ridge in the centre. I am planning on swapping the engine for the 1600 lump at some point in the future. In the mean time want to keep the Herald going so going to just bung in some new bearings at £17 they are throw away price from Canleys anyway. My query is should the main bearing bolts and big end cap bolts be replaced as a matter of course or can they be re used. I checked Haynes and no mention of using new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 You can re-use the bolts if no visible damage. I usually compare lengths of the big end ones to check all are the same length..... crude but catches anything badly stretched. The OE Bolts are very good quality.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 No problem reusing all the bolts if theyre in good order - you might be thinking of more modern high power engines where due to the stresses involved its recommendable to put in new ones.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 Thanks guys the big ends and mains are both standard, so i think i'll treat her to tri metal bearings for the price difference- or is this just a waste of £20? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Tri-metal are superior......Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 Heres my bearing from my little Herald engine https://photos.app.goo.gl/gcjxpqbxZheRIwE73 as you can see well and truly shot. The crank has some mark but i'll live with it until i get the 1600 engine done. Query do worn bearing effect performance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 Yep, that's done.......Main is a VP2 tri-metal and quite likely the original. I have a very similar one on my desk. The big end looks like an aluminium-tin one so doesn't have the copper-look wear giveaway. It's knackered though.Worn bearings don't affect performance as such (though the crank rattling around in the mains won't be helping) but that degree of wear implies wear elsewhere such as bores, rings and valve gear which will affect performance.As an aside the one on my desk is part of a full set from a very well worn 1300 GE. All the (original) bearings except the top half of the front main are down to the copper everywhere. The centre main lower half is through the copper too...... Oddly enough it had a nearly new high-capacity oil pump fitted. They replaced the wrong bit I reckon!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 Think that is treating the symptoms rather than the cause.Any tips for getting the top half of the shell out with the engine in situe. I was thinking drifting them around.... carefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 loosen all the big end caps a tad, then use something plastic that will push them. I have used plastic window packers, but all sorts will work. And rotating the crank as you go.A tap with a small punch or whatever may be useful to start them moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Loosen all main caps Clive?Big tie-wrap with the end cut square. May need a tap with a screw driver or similar to get it started. Turning the crank to roll it out/in can also help.Shower cap helps keep the oil out of your hair.......Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 yep. Not much, 1/2 turn sort of amount . Just to release the pressure.(not so the crank is hanging on the seals) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 I have had the sump off for a couple of days now so only a few drops left. I tested the compression in the engine last year it was quite good I'll get the bearing done and report back as to worn pistons. Thinking the lack of oomph going up hill might be due to the overdrive box which and 3.89 diff. Maybe I need to check timing etcThanks for your help and advice as ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 I'll be honest, I can sort of set carbs up OK, and a good friend is better than me and can get them pretty spot on.However, after a trip to a rolling road with an operator who knew how to tune carbs (he had been involved in minis for over 50 years, also looked after some very exotic classics for customers with VERY deep pockets) the car flew. He did file the needles a bit, and commented the balance was spot on before he started. So a trip to the rollers is a good investment in my book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 Luckily I only have one Carb. I think I may try the tune up on the car until the 6 cylinder is done. The six needs a skim U/L valves crank grind , Rad recore, dizzy, carb rebuild so a bit of a long term project. Plus i have a Spit MkIV inbound.Bearings arrived , centre and rear bearing complete. Thrust washer was replaced as well... for the price of £6 might as well. And good job too, far less movement now. The old surface had some of it cracked away. Two more pistons and front bearing to complete, then torque it all up. Seal up that sump , new oil filter, new oil... vrooom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Took the oil pump off its clearly had swarf through there as the rotors are scored. The rotors are within the measurements as per haynes manual should i replace. The oil pressure at cold was good at hot it was poor but hopefully new bearings will change that.I will obvs clean the sump out at replace filter before filling with fresh oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 Got it all back together the pressure is steady at 50psi plus when driving on idle dropping to just under 25psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 Sounds good enough to me. Result!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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