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Replacing dynamo with alternator


GarthT

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probably been asked a million times.

I've read that an alternator from a Rover V8 will fit Heralds and Vits, and can get one at reasonable price, much cheaper than what some shops on the internet sell a full kit for. Plus it'll be able to supply a higher current than those on offer.

What other things will I need parts wise?

and has anyone a step-by-step guide to fitting one electrically? or would mind posting if they are in the know. I have no problem finding/fitting brackets etc, I could just do with a hand with the wiring.

cheers

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Lots of threads.
But electrically, take th ewires off the control box, ditch the earth. Join the F to WL. Then Join the rest of the wires. Using a household electrics junction box has been suggested, not a bad idea. Soldering insn't a great idea, though a blowtorch will do it 8)
If upgrading then you should use an extra wire from alternator to battery positive. Simples.

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thanks for coming to my rescue yet again Clive.

do F and WL refer to stamping on the terminals of the control box?

do I still need the control box or can I remove it?

Did I hear correctly that a thick wire should be fitted between alternator and starter as well?

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F (field. thin wire to the dynamo) and WL (warning light on the dash) and yes, hopefully on the box. Earth is the black one ;D
Extra wire to the battery is best. The Dynamo wire is meant to carry about 25A or so. Your alternator may well be significantly more. I use a ring connector at the battery end, and a spade or ring at the alternator (depends which alternator) Def not the starter on a vitesse etc (unless it is a denso one with a built in solenoid, but the battery is the safest bet)

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2204 wrote:
probably been asked a million times.

I've read that an alternator from a Rover V8 will fit Heralds and Vits, and can get one at reasonable price, much cheaper than what some shops on the internet sell a full kit for. Plus it'll be able to supply a higher current than those on offer.

What other things will I need parts wise?

and has anyone a step-by-step guide to fitting one electrically? or would mind posting if they are in the know. I have no problem finding/fitting brackets etc, I could just do with a hand with the wiring.

cheers


you might find additional hints here

regards Flemming

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Garth T,

This may assist:

The following site is worth a look as they have a very good section on their WORKSHOP page covering polarity change, dynamo to alternator and ballast coil etc etc.

http://www.midgetregister.com

What is also useful is that it covers the modification to control boxes RB106 and also the RB340 boxes which tend to be found on the Vitesse & Spitfire vehicles. Not only is it worded well but the accompanying photos + wiring diagrams make it all very clear.

I used the above to convert my Vitesse to an alternator and also modify the RB340 control box.

Simples  8) !!

For those with a Herald / Vitesse, it's definately worth a gander if intending to fit an alternator.

Hope that helps ??

Thanks.

Richard.

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Thanks Flemming and Herald dolly, much appreciated. Definately need one fitting, the lights brighten when I rev high and I often have to put the battery on charge. I know this could be just the battery on the way out, but it's fairly new and this way will tell me.

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It's already negative earth, so no worries there.

I've binned the sealed beams and converted the four headlamps to H4/H7 halogen and added relays so the tired 40 year old wiring doesn't have to cope with a large current and then blow my light switch, so all those wires are new, both positive and negative. These still brighten when revving, so it's either the battery or the dynamo not coping.

On a side note, this is one mod I would really recommend to anyone with a car of 30 years + who hasn't already done it. On a Vitesse you can do all four lamps for less than £60, this is four halogen lamps/ two H4 two H7 bulbs, two relays, a good few metres of 16A cable and some bullet and spade connectors.

I will check the battery earth strap though, I've looked a it previously but that was a while back so will check it again, thanks for that nang.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got the alternator fitted today, many thanks to all who helped with advice, I really appreciate it.

Where would we be without t'internet and this forum/club?

I originally was going to go with what heralddolly suggested, but after modifying a spare control box (adding a jumper wire and cutting out the resistors) I couldn't remove the one already on the car as the screws were behind the battery and I was feeling lazy. So I went with Clive's suggestion, joined the two thin wires together with a bullet, binned the small black earth lead, and joined the other three thick wires together and used the control box as a junction for them. I'll tidy it up later.

I ran a really thick wire from the spare connector on the alternator to the battery, started the car and it ran well, it didn't nearly stall when I put on all the lights and the heater fan, plus when I revved, the lights didn't brighten. Job done.

On a side note, I originally bought a 2nd hand GT6 alternator from an eBayer, when it arrived it wasn't particulary well packed and most of the vanes on the fan were bent onto the casing, the pulley was bent and the casing cracked in two places. The seller refunded all my money. I spent another £12 and got a brand new uprated 65A one. The seller was classicmotorspares2010, and I had excellent service from them.

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