turbineman Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 i have recently acquired a 76 stag after many many years of hankering after one.i have a query regarding electric cooling fans i have seen many kits advertised but i wonder if using one from a scrapped car is fesible idea? as these are cheap and plentifull ,what if any are a good donor part to use to achieve a good fit etc ?any advise thoughts glady accepted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenV8Machine Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 pfffffffffff, just wang a pacet on with the through rad kits, takes like 15 minutes to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbineman Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 thanks for your prompt reply,however the question remains has any tried this idea!!!!again any ideas greatly apperiacted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Not me but no reason it can't be done. Thing is you want a fan that is similar in size to the radiator. Also, why do you want an electric fan per se?Is the current setup not sufficent? If so, fitting an electric fan only makes you turn a blind eye to the problem at hand - first solve any cooling woes. Standard setup should be sufficient for most uses.Or you want one instead of the original? For the record, I no longer have the original and thus rely solely on an electric fan. Since fitting 4 months ago it has only come on twice for a short burst, both pretty hot days and when idling stationary.Julian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbineman Posted June 2, 2010 Author Share Posted June 2, 2010 hi julian,cheers for that,as i am a "new" stag owner i have read so many stories of overheating i was of the thought of bib and braces so to speak.i would imagine both in situ would be an ideal world so to speak.this may just be parnoid on my behalf as i seem to be constantly looking at gauge and twitchy when i see a traffic jam.also is there a fail open stat that anyone knows of if?regard john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagnant Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 JohnA fan is a fan so anything that can be made to fit is fine. 16" is about the biggest you can get away with. It will need to be mounted on the front of the radiator so you'll need one that blows, rather than sucks. Whatever some owners say, Stag cooling is marginal so your 'bib & braces' appoach is sensible. The added advantage of keeping the mechanical fan is cooling the ancillaries and fuel lines under the bonnet - all helps reliabilty. Thermostats rarely fail so I wouldn't worry too much on that front, the viscous coupling on the fan is the weak link so test that periodically for lateral play or spinning too freely. If it fails the electric fan would get you home, but the mechanical fan will eat the radiator! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbineman Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 cheers for that would it be possible to mount fan at rear of rad and have it there as simply reversing polarity will make fan suuk or blow.as my stag runs fine but i just get twitchy when i see stationary traffic or imagne fan failure etc etc etc!!!!just putting out feelers to see what concenus is among owners also i am told to run fan its also sensible to change/upgrade alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenV8Machine Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 have a look in chitchat at the electric fan thread. I use a scrapper one on my GT6 from a saxo, does good, but the pacet wins hands down in my book. Id get a 14" or 16" profan in there. Ive put a 16" slimline kenowe on the front of a stag before, sorted the cooling out a treat. A £30 ebay cheapie might be a better route if youre looking for cheapness under a missus.One of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16-UNIVERSAL-SUPER-COOLING-RADIATOR-FAN-BLOWER-SUCKER-/250631726706?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a5ad0a672 and one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-RADIATOR-ELECTRIC-COOLING-FAN-FITTING-KIT-/150438149314?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2306cffcc2 would have you done in half the time of arsing around with a scrappie job, mounting bracket etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbineman Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 cheers for that.looks tidy.what about loading the additonal weight on rad core any issues with that way of fixing or fab brackets better any ideas on that issue or just my parnoia creeping in?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 If it's going on the front - I would fab up some brackets that attach to the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 2070 wrote:cheers for that would it be possible to mount fan at rear of rad and have it there as simply reversing polarity will make fan suuk or blow. Not really possible to fit. Certainly not if hte original engine driven fan is still there. Even after removing the fan, torquatrol unit and using a shorted bolt I find space is limited. 2070 wrote:what about loading the additonal weight on rad core any issues with that way of fixing or fab brackets better any ideas on that issue or just my parnoia creeping in??In my opinion brackets are a much better solution than the quick 'through radiator' kits.Julian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbineman Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 think im sold on brackets.i assume that at front that is between rad and grill and there is good room for fan and fab bracktes and this is where it sits.Now gentlemen and ladies of course any thoughts on control for fan and is a larger alternator required to run said fan i know fans vary in current etc but what is norm?regards john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Well, speaking from my own experience an alternator with a higher output would be very handy. What is the standard unit, 45-55A? I found that at night with all 4 head lights on and twin 115W driving lamps the power output was so low that the engine would misfire due to weakened spark. Normal is around 13.8V but then I saw the voltmeter registering near 10-11 - far too low.An 85A alternator from I believe a Ford Focus is a direct swap over - no mods at all. So far it has handled all the extras perfectly while retaining a full charging output of 13.8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
velosolex50 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 There is a good article in the SOC technical section, involving load testing a stag on a rolling roadunder different conditions. Well worth reading if you can find it, the conclusion being that a good electric fan is overall better than the standard engine driven item. Obviously, the whole system has to be in good order to cool adequately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbineman Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 that justs leave me two jobs to do now!!what mark focus you think it is from? got to be a good upgrade!!regards john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 No idea to be honest. I took the original to a starter and alternator rebuild specialist just down the road from me. Guy took one look at it, heard my request and pulled a new one off the shelf mentioning it was a Ford item.Perfect fit - even the wiring had the same plug socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagnant Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 699 wrote:Well, speaking from my own experience an alternator with a higher output would be very handy. What is the standard unit, 45-55A? I found that at night with all 4 head lights on and twin 115W driving lamps the power output was so low that the engine would misfire due to weakened spark. Normal is around 13.8V but then I saw the voltmeter registering near 10-11 - far too low.An 85A alternator from I believe a Ford Focus is a direct swap over - no mods at all. So far it has handled all the extras perfectly while retaining a full charging output of 13.8.I'd go careful with this one. The elderly wiring loom in the stag is not designed to take that sort of load and you might have a bonfire on your hands, particularly if you start up with a heavily drained battery - 80amps surging through wiring designed for 40amps is not advisable! If you're going to go for all those modern electrical goodies and bright lights you'd be advised to upgrade the wiring or it will end in tears :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagnant Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 699 wrote:In my opinion brackets are a much better solution than the quick 'through radiator' kits.JulianIdeallly I'm sure that's probably right, but in reality having fitted several fans with the through radiator kits and knowing many owners with that set up, I've never had or heard of any problems. If they're fitted correctly (using the rubber pads and pulled up tightly) then I think you'd be very unlucky to have a problem. The larger 16" Kenlowe uses 8 copper pins rather than the usual 4 plastic ties which helps to spread the load. If it fails its probably becuase your radiator core was weak in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 badshead wrote:I'd go careful with this one. The elderly wiring loom in the stag is not designed to take that sort of load and you might have a bonfire on your hands, particularly if you start up with a heavily drained battery - 80amps surging through wiring designed for 40amps is not advisable! If you're going to go for all those modern electrical goodies and bright lights you'd be advised to upgrade the wiring or it will end in tears :oYou don't need to worry about that if you fit a wire directly between the alternator and the battery. On most of our types of alternator there are two terminals - and the loom only uses one.Just make sure you use a beefy enough cable and connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbineman Posted June 10, 2010 Author Share Posted June 10, 2010 thanks for that,is this just a straight link between the battery and a spare terminal/connector on alternator?is the purpose of this to spread the current on the loom and allow electric goodies to be put on loom without damage.anyone tried this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 It's only to alleviate the strain on the alternator to battery wire in the loom - nothing else. That is where the most of your ampage goes when you have a low battery...You still may need beefier cable for lights etc etc(though having said that I have been running my high wattage bulbs with the standard wiring for ages now - though I think they would be a bit brighter with better cable) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 Hello James, I just noticed your term "ampage". I had never heard this term until earlier this morning on another forum where some one asked (relative to a plasma cutter) "what ampage were you using?".I understand the meaning but I was brought up on amperage (being a time served electrical fitter), and wonder when this new word appeared?Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 Don't know! I may have just invented it :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.