Jump to content


Club Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral


Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'd also recommend keeping the cd150's or even swapping to HS4's (I prefer su's) but in regards to the cam if you don't have the cam yet and need to purchase one then I'd consider using the Newman PH2 cam instead. It's a little more frisky than the mk2 gt6 cam but still offers a stable idle and is a very nice fast road cam.
  2. Didn't realise there was a tool for the mk4/1500 spit and mk3 GT6 trims. That would be a useful tool to have remanufactured
  3. The Madsprout (mk3 GT6) needs it's limited slip 3.27 diff reinstalling following it's rebuild. It had only done 2000 miles since being built first time round but the builder over tightened the pinion bearings and used a scrap crown wheel and pinion to build it so it became very noisy very quickly. The 2 oil changes I did were bright silver with the debris from the pinion bearings. Now rebuilt with an 1850 dolly crownwheel and pinion using timkin bearings throughout and a good pair of halfshafts as the splines on my originals were worn. Then I need to pull the engine to change the thrust washer
  4. Belive there were some memory foam sets on Facebook from a guy in Europe that makes them. £99 fir each seat. I'll do my best to try and find the link.
  5. I didn't get to drive mine as its broken AGAIN! Should be fixed in the next couple of weeks then a few long shake down runs to get the diff run in and make sure it's all OK for 1st October
  6. Yes I know Tone. It's not a section that's been developed yet. There are more important things to finalise and finesse with the site currently. It will be addressed in time and I'm hoping for more features than the last site had to offer so that the groups can communicate with each other more.
  7. Thanks for your kind comments on the new site. I'm the national local groups organiser and about an hour ago I asked the same question amongst others relating to the local groups. As soon as I get a reply I'll let you know
  8. Setting up for cam timing
  9. Quick update So we weighed all of the new cou ty pistons with rings, gudgeon pins and circlips today. All 6 within 3 grams of each other. Then we did the same to the rods. 4 were withing 8 grams and 2 were 30 grams lighter! We then discovered that 2 of the rods (these are out of the 2.0L engine that we are using the block to build the 2.5) we're spitfire 1500 that had the holes in them. So luckily we managed to save 2 rods from the original Mk1 pi engine. We don't have a facility to weigh the rods ebe to end so we've had to use the the rods as they are. It's only a road car build so even
  10. I agree but would prefer sections like Engine/drivetrain Chassis/suspension /wheels and tyres Body and trim.
  11. Well I'm sure the conrods are pretty much the same across all 2.0L and 2.5L other than some small differences for earlier rods (like the Mk1 for example) and the same as spitfire 1500. I also think the thread sizes are the same for the mains across all 2.5 and 2.0L (excluding early 2.0L of course) so I'm going with the Mk1 PI figures you posted earlier Ben as these are generally within the figures Rob posted. We managed to find a mk1 pi engine for £20 but the block, conrods and pistons was scrap so we are building a 2.5 using the cross drilled crank, his rods from his 2.0l and the mk2 pi block
  12. Great help. Thank you Steve
  13. Well that puts the cat amongst the pigeons.. The engine is a late mk2 pi block, Mk1 pi cross drilled crank and 2.0L GT6 conrods with new 2.5 pistons. Thanks for the reply Rob
  • Create New...