Nick Jones

Hi Lucas, That is a great idea and the Spitfire is good choice being still relatively plentiful, not too expensive (though the days of people giving them away are mostly gone now) and pretty easy to work on. Spares availability is good. My son had the same ambition. Here’s the thread of his restoration (on the Sideways Technologies forum) https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/7107-chriss-mkiv-basket-case-restored-to-glory/ He was a bit older than you when he started. His was a serious project starting with a very rough, dismantled and incomplete car. I would recommend against this. A complete, perhaps even running car needing work will cost more than a random pile of bits will cost more - but worth the extra in my view. How much of a project do you want? How experienced and skilled are you and your grandfather? What tools do you have access to? This determines what level of project you are looking for. Most project cars are going to need a lot of welding. Does your grandfather know Triumphs /Spitfires? Asking on the Triumph Club forums is a good starting point. Club Triumph (this one) and TSSC are the main ones for the “small chassis” cars. I believe also some Facebook groups. Also many cars on eBay to keep an eye on and get a feel for conditions and values. Do you have a particular Spitfire version in mind? MkIV / 1500 are the most plentiful, typically cheaper and arguably the most usable when finished. Whereabouts in the country are you? Too many questions…. Pics of my sons car

I reckon your man is holding out for a less knowledgeable punter who won’t realise the engine is done for until it’s too late…..😕 May be worth keeping an eye on.

That much end-float strongly suggests the thrust washers have dropped out. How much damage done depends on how much it’s been used since. Costs will depend on whether the block and crank are re-usable. Until you know that…. Complete used engines are still out there.

Dinitrol LT or 3125HS Available in aerosols too. I’ve always bought it from Rejel Automotive but there are other sources too https://rejel.com/dinitrol-3125hs-high-solids-cavity-wax-500ml-aerosol-spray-can/

Will be very interested to hear what you discover. Might be worth a call to Chris Witor or Dave Pearson ref. The Triumph cams. Dave might even comment on here….

I think you’ll struggle to get reliable information. You can try asking the makers. Newman might tell you. No idea about Kent. Triumph….. maybe somebody knows… This doesn’t answer your question but you might find it interesting https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/8106-how-to-measure-a-cam-in-the-hand/#comment-108100

Gearbox 75W90 GL4 (I usually use Redline MT90 but not essential) Rear axle EP 75W90 GL4 or something a little heavier (I tend to use Redline shockproof heavy) Probably modern GL5 rated oil is ok too and gives better lubrication of crown wheel and pinion but some will point to concerns about GL5 additives attacking yellow metals.

Excellent! Well done 🙂

Yes, if you are going to put it in/near the engine bay.

I don’t think the shells are included Tim. I wouldn’t worry about ARP bolts on standard rods either. Bolts are less critical with angled split rods and the Triumph ones are nicely dowelled too. The bolts are much more critical on the M-Speeding rod design partly because they are horizontal split, but more because they are very small - of necessity to get the horizontal split rod down a small bore. That said, These rods are a very decent and fairly-priced alternative to properly preparing the factory ones. Well under £ 100/ rod….

Paul, Apologies if you’ve already been through this thought process, but be aware that sticking 200kg in the front of a Spitfire changes it nature completely. It’s not just a Spit with more grunt. There’s a considerable loss of nimbleness. Also, more grunt…. Actually a well sorted 1500 will be quicker than a standard GT6 in the twisty bits and possibly in a straight line too. And a 4 pot costs about 40% less to do serious engine work to. And this is coming from the owner of two 6 pot cars! Ok, so the 6 sounds so much better…… If you already past the above. Then the chassis is basically the same. I built my GT6 on a 1500 chassis. Up front you would need to add the rad mounts if running a GT6 radiator, though maybe not as it’s possible even preferable to use a light, cheap Golf mk2 GTI, which involves making your own mounting arrangements. I did add the mounts, I also used the Golf radiator - can’t remember if the two got joined. Gearbox… meh, ideally a beefed-up three rail GT6/Dolly 1850 hybrid with J-type. Otherwise a Ford T9 conversion but make sure you get a 2.8 V8 T9 box. Spit 1500 3.63 diff is fine (best simple option anyway). Rear brakes also. Still think a well tweaked 1500 on EFI has many benefits..,,

Couple of not too great pictures... You can just see the Huco above the oil filter adapter. Fuel pipes are just out of sight to the right. IIRC I made a bracket which is part of the mechanical fuel pump blanking plate. Don't seem to have pic of it so will get you better one. Incoming is along the chassis rail, through the front outrigger (couple of inches of copper pipe visible behind the rear wishbone bracket). Outgoing is up the bulkhead then along it under the brake servo and header tank..... .... then forward to the carbs with the carb link-pipe layout being reversed to suit

Yes. I fitted a Huco “sucker” type. This is mounted in the engine bay close to the original mechanical pump position. You could use the Huco pusher version and mount it by the tank but there really isn’t much room back there if you want to carry a spare wheel. Have a pic somewhere, but not on this phone. Neither of these options needs a regulator as the Huco pumps are low pressure. You should fit an impact cutoff switch in the pump supply line. I also ran the fuel pipe from pump to carbs along the bulkhead rather than along the engine block to keep it as cool as possible. This meant reversing the shape of the carb link pipe.

850 not very low anyway. I used to have something like 17deg btdc when running single throttle, but now I’m on ITBs and more modern firmware I’m using the ignition-timing-based idle control so base is alot less but it’s got another 10 deg to play with. Really, it wants what it wants so it’s a case of experimenting. Hopefully it doesn’t change its mind from dsy to day!

They cannot go in upwards. It is definitely the case that they are close fit. I’ve seen reports (one from someone I knew well with direct experience) that on the Vitesse 2L they wouldn’t go down a standard bore but would just go down when bored +0.020” Otherwise I’ve only heard good things about them and definitely cheaper than having OE ones properly checked and prepared. That said, I’ve always had good service from the OE ones. Same rods used in 1300 large crank, 1500, 2L (except very early ones) and 2.5s