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Nick Jones

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Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. I reckon your man is holding out for a less knowledgeable punter who won’t realise the engine is done for until it’s too late…..😕 May be worth keeping an eye on.
  2. That much end-float strongly suggests the thrust washers have dropped out. How much damage done depends on how much it’s been used since. Costs will depend on whether the block and crank are re-usable. Until you know that…. Complete used engines are still out there.
  3. Dinitrol LT or 3125HS Available in aerosols too. I’ve always bought it from Rejel Automotive but there are other sources too https://rejel.com/dinitrol-3125hs-high-solids-cavity-wax-500ml-aerosol-spray-can/
  4. Will be very interested to hear what you discover. Might be worth a call to Chris Witor or Dave Pearson ref. The Triumph cams. Dave might even comment on here….
  5. I think you’ll struggle to get reliable information. You can try asking the makers. Newman might tell you. No idea about Kent. Triumph….. maybe somebody knows… This doesn’t answer your question but you might find it interesting https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/8106-how-to-measure-a-cam-in-the-hand/#comment-108100
  6. Gearbox 75W90 GL4 (I usually use Redline MT90 but not essential) Rear axle EP 75W90 GL4 or something a little heavier (I tend to use Redline shockproof heavy) Probably modern GL5 rated oil is ok too and gives better lubrication of crown wheel and pinion but some will point to concerns about GL5 additives attacking yellow metals.
  7. Yes, if you are going to put it in/near the engine bay.
  8. I don’t think the shells are included Tim. I wouldn’t worry about ARP bolts on standard rods either. Bolts are less critical with angled split rods and the Triumph ones are nicely dowelled too. The bolts are much more critical on the M-Speeding rod design partly because they are horizontal split, but more because they are very small - of necessity to get the horizontal split rod down a small bore. That said, These rods are a very decent and fairly-priced alternative to properly preparing the factory ones. Well under £ 100/ rod….
  9. Paul, Apologies if you’ve already been through this thought process, but be aware that sticking 200kg in the front of a Spitfire changes it nature completely. It’s not just a Spit with more grunt. There’s a considerable loss of nimbleness. Also, more grunt…. Actually a well sorted 1500 will be quicker than a standard GT6 in the twisty bits and possibly in a straight line too. And a 4 pot costs about 40% less to do serious engine work to. And this is coming from the owner of two 6 pot cars! Ok, so the 6 sounds so much better…… If you already past the above. Then the chassis is basically the same. I built my GT6 on a 1500 chassis. Up front you would need to add the rad mounts if running a GT6 radiator, though maybe not as it’s possible even preferable to use a light, cheap Golf mk2 GTI, which involves making your own mounting arrangements. I did add the mounts, I also used the Golf radiator - can’t remember if the two got joined. Gearbox… meh, ideally a beefed-up three rail GT6/Dolly 1850 hybrid with J-type. Otherwise a Ford T9 conversion but make sure you get a 2.8 V8 T9 box. Spit 1500 3.63 diff is fine (best simple option anyway). Rear brakes also. Still think a well tweaked 1500 on EFI has many benefits..,,
  10. Couple of not too great pictures... You can just see the Huco above the oil filter adapter. Fuel pipes are just out of sight to the right. IIRC I made a bracket which is part of the mechanical fuel pump blanking plate. Don't seem to have pic of it so will get you better one. Incoming is along the chassis rail, through the front outrigger (couple of inches of copper pipe visible behind the rear wishbone bracket). Outgoing is up the bulkhead then along it under the brake servo and header tank..... .... then forward to the carbs with the carb link-pipe layout being reversed to suit
  11. Yes. I fitted a Huco “sucker” type. This is mounted in the engine bay close to the original mechanical pump position. You could use the Huco pusher version and mount it by the tank but there really isn’t much room back there if you want to carry a spare wheel. Have a pic somewhere, but not on this phone. Neither of these options needs a regulator as the Huco pumps are low pressure. You should fit an impact cutoff switch in the pump supply line. I also ran the fuel pipe from pump to carbs along the bulkhead rather than along the engine block to keep it as cool as possible. This meant reversing the shape of the carb link pipe.
  12. 850 not very low anyway. I used to have something like 17deg btdc when running single throttle, but now I’m on ITBs and more modern firmware I’m using the ignition-timing-based idle control so base is alot less but it’s got another 10 deg to play with. Really, it wants what it wants so it’s a case of experimenting. Hopefully it doesn’t change its mind from dsy to day!
  13. They cannot go in upwards. It is definitely the case that they are close fit. I’ve seen reports (one from someone I knew well with direct experience) that on the Vitesse 2L they wouldn’t go down a standard bore but would just go down when bored +0.020” Otherwise I’ve only heard good things about them and definitely cheaper than having OE ones properly checked and prepared. That said, I’ve always had good service from the OE ones. Same rods used in 1300 large crank, 1500, 2L (except very early ones) and 2.5s
  14. No TR7 experience, but looking at the numbers it shouldn’t be that lumpy. You have EFI on this IIRC? It will need remapping (as I’m sure you are well aware) and if still running the old map it’ll probably want a bit more timing low down and a bit less fuel, and the opposite at the top end. With a single throttle body you may possibly be getting a little reversion at idle / low rpm + light throttle which may introduce a little lumpiness compared to standard, but as above I wouldn’t expect anything severe.
  15. 3.63 is the diff Triumph should have put in the Vitesse 2L from the factory. Shockingly under geared as standard, especially without OD. GT6 also benefits, though really could do with a taller one, even with OD.
  16. Nick Jones

    Power upgrade

    Are you sure your existing engine is the right one (ie not saloon engine) and is fully fit. They should go pretty well as standard. Otherwise, as Clive says - what is you goal and what do you want to use the car for. Think carefully before going 2.5, the extra torque exploits the inherent weakness of the transmission! Nick
  17. I’ve not messed with the saloon sender units specifically, but certainly it is possible to dismantle some of the sender units non-destructively if you are careful by unbending the tabs around the edge that hold the two halves together. Herald/Vitesse ones for sure, some Spitfire ones maybe, though this one I just found on my bench…. (Which I think is a late Spitfire one… ……not so much as there other (welded) things holding it together as well. Whether you can do anything useful once you are in there is debatable….. some very fine wires and also crimped connections that sometimes get corroded and don’t conduct anymore
  18. OTP979 seems really quiet - not sure if I’m getting any sound on that clip. 044 sounds ok. Good news that the Pierburg is alive. Giving them a few gentle taps on a wooden surface with power applied usually gets them going if there’s any life left in them.
  19. As I remember, there is also a switch in the sensor assembly so it has 3 wires. One wire is the earth (black), one is for the gauge (green/black) and the last is for the low level warning light (green/orange). You need unplug the green/orange wire and see if the light goes out. If it does, there’s a problem with the switch in the tank. If it stays on, there’s a short circuit somewhere along that wire. To get access to the sensor, remove the cardboard panel at the back of boot.
  20. Have a suspicion that that exactly what would have been there from the factory. Two identical 5/8” master cylinders with the small, extra angled reservoirs. No real downside so long as you check the fluid levels regularly. Used to be possible to get plastic screw-on extensions to gain a bit of capacity but possibly too tall in this case.
  21. Could you not insist that any car being used for the RBRR has a valid MoT certificate? Given the fairly extreme real world test they are out through it seems like a sensible ask?
  22. Fuse box. They are all on the same fuse……
  23. That’s the one. I know it says 94 psi in the table but the curve shows up to about 150 and looks fine for 105. 12mm is fine. Short section of 10mm is likely fine too. The OE tank exit is 8mm at best, possibly only 6mm - that’s what the narrowest bit measured on my PI tank exit.
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