Nick Jones
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Everything posted by Nick Jones
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Julian, Neil, No arguments on the hardware side, but as far as the management side goes, you will find it easier to get the fuelling right across the rev/load range using a mappable ECU rather than trying to tweak the old Rover system. You won't even need an air flow meter then. You can also control the ignition timing which also brings big benefits in my experience. I like Megasquirt because it's cheap and I'm mean but there are many ECU choices. Cheers Nick
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Oil pressure looks very good and compressions don't look all that bad - ring probs on no. 3 maybe....... You also might want to check the valve lifts on nos. 1 & 4 exhaust (two end ones) as these do seem to wear first and worn exhaust cam lobes sometimes seem to give higher cranking compressions (not sure why!). Nick
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I have been experimenting for a while now as the Vitesse engine is well past it's best and now drinks ordinary 20/50 like a rabbit hole..... A rebuilt head with valve guide seals made very little difference even though the old guides were completely shot :( Some oils are definitely better than others but all get tired after about 3000 miles. My current fave is the cheapest Comma 20/50 I could find with a can of Wynns added. That works pretty well (back up to nearly 1000 miles/pint from about 200!) but the oil pressure is a bit scary when cold! I've now got just about everything to build a fresh bottom end but seem to have acquired another project along the way which is taking priority..... Nick
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In my experience you don't loose that much oil down the inlet guides unless you have an unrestricted external rocker feed..... even if you have 6 inlet guides. Worth a try though. Nick
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Can't really manage to sleep in the Vitesse so two nights out really hurts - Hence marshalling this year...... Have never used Red Bull, Pro-plus or even coffee on these events - they just make me feel really ill. I have been know to use Lucozade sport and that works ok. Other than that, just normal food where possible - full English breakfast seems to be pretty much ideal. Had some really evil French cheese on the 10CR last year - that caused some fairly serious emissions problems! Interesting idea about piping the co-driver up to the engine and feeding them beans..... was thinking about lpg anyway. Might want a flame trap though, exploding co-driver would be messy :-/ Nick
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Actually, gruesome looks and suspect handling aside, I didn't hate the C3 as much as expected. It actually went quite well (provided the AC was off) and went significantly better by the time I'd finished "running it in"..... It's possible that 2nd and 3rd gear plus anything connected with the steering may fail surprisingly early though . Excellent brakes. Nick
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Citroen C3 Picasso diesel hire car....... (aka the "Blue Hippo"). Scary amounts of understeer (so much so that I was moved to check the tyre pressures). At least it was economical and the AC was welcome. Nick
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Just got back from 10 days in the eastern Pyrenes..... boy do they have some great roads there - these wide, well surfaced alpine passes with barriers are for girls Special mentions to: D618 Amelie les Bains -> Bouleternere - was tired after that one even with PAS N116 Prades to Mont Louis D118 Mont Lois to Axat (especially after Puyvalador) D4 Matemale -> Olette - absolutely barking mad road - too extreme to send a group down though. D613 Ax Les Thermes to Quillan - as used on 2009 10CR - still great but not quite the same without the yowling 6 and RWD...... D25 Ax les Thermes to Escouloubre (see pic) used on Tour de France (those guys must be HARD) You could spend a week in the Pyrenes just doing passes..... there is even a signed route "Route des Cols". Pity it is such a trek down there....... Sorry not more pics - I was driving 'cause the boss wouldn't 😀 Three days in the Alps doing passes would be fine too 🙂 Nick
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Megasquirt is not OBDII or even OBDI. ONly worth using Megasquirt if the car is not already injected as it can then perform both the Petrol and LPG functions (dual maps) as well as the ignition control if wanted. On a car that is elready electronically injected it makes more sense to use the "piggy back" ECUs that the LPG folks supply. Nick
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Sounds ok to me. I'd imagine the main cost would be the casting patterns and tooling up for the machining. I don't have any kind of feel for what that might be. Numbers produced will obviously have a huge effect on total manufacturing cost but I reckon that anything up to
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This has been done by a gent in either Denmark or Sweden who modified the carb manifold fairly extensively and used Megasquirt. I found him via the Megasquirt "success stories" before I'd even started mine (5 + years ago) and it was there for a while as I looked at it several times. Of course I can't find it now I want want it 🙁 Seem to remember he claimed huge torque and vastly improved fuel economy from an otherwise standard but carefully built engine. If I had a Stag with original V8 I would do this, and probably lpg it at the same time. Nick
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Interesting.... are those MGF discs and calipers? Seems to be more room on swing axle rear end.... Nick
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This is a W58 in a Vitesse btw - its big but the gearstick does come out in the original position. Unfortunately the effect is slightly spoiled in this case by my home-made short remote which meant the tunnel still needed a small mod. There is a proper Toyota remote which would do the job more neatly but I couldn't find one at the time. Nick
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Hi Guys Thanks for the feedback. i have had a chat with frontline today. he says that he has sold "hundreds" of GT6 kits and never had a single complaint. [/quote] Aye, we're a patient lot, the Brits...... 339 wrote: He did say that the gearbox tunnel needs to have the gearstick hole enlarged slightly because the gearstick is a little further back than origional but not 70mm. Enlarged slightly....?! he's having a laugh - plenty of evidence in this thread to the contrary I'd say! 339 wrote: He has asked if i can measure the depth of the bell housing just to make sure that the late GT6 used the same as all the others. I told him i thought he was clutching at straws and they were all the same but would measure it and get back to him. This is all before i insist he comes to have a look to make sure i havn't done anything stupid. All GT6 (and Vitesse) have the same bellhousing. It is a fact that the gearstick comes out further back, even when the gearbox remote has been shortened. If you don't shorten it it will come out about halfway down the handbrake..... The shortened solution is ok but it is misleading (at best) to say the tunnel doesn't need modifying. Nick
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There is no doubt that the T9 will be a huge improvement over the original Triumph effort (esp non OD) in many ways. However, for the supplier to state that the gear lever will come out in the same place is just plain wrong. The T9 is longer, alot longer. Although it is possible (quite straight-forward even) to shorten the remote by 65mm odd, that is only about 1/2 the shortening needed to match the original position and to go shorter still needs major re-engineering. This was the main reason I went W58 in the Vitesse. The situation is better in Spitfires but the lever will still come out further back (probably near the std GT6 position). The pic below shows the moment I realised the scale of the problem...... Nick
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Don't believe that the original gearsick position is acheivable with T9 in a GT6 - modified box or not. Definitely isn't in a Vitesse. I await next episode with interest....... Nick
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Richard_B wrote: or you split it; Front Left - Rear Right, Front Right - Rear Left. Flemming, look for Spitfire or GT6 Tandem systems as fitted for some overseas markets? Not recommended as the suspension geometry means it will REALLY pull to one side. More modern stuff designed for diagonal split line brakes has different suspension design/settings to reduce the pull (makes steering heavier) Nick
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Richard_B wrote:Dual circuit brake system. If one circuit fails you still have the other half a braking system. ??) If you call back brakes only half a breaking system...... more like a 5th :o Still, better than nothing (handbrake :P) Nick
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Nick_Jones wrote:See attached pic. Dimensions should be treated with a degree of caution as for various reasons I can't lift the car just now and it's too low to get under. Holes appear to be 12mm (1/2") from the edges (top and bottom) of the outrigger. I can't measure the whole tie rod length with the wheel on, but the distance between the ends of the two tube sections is 67mm. (jam nuts included within that 67mm). No reason why this will also be correct on yours - toe must be set once assembled and at normal running height. Note that roto chassis brackets are different - can't see any in your pic...... Note also that there are anti-crush tubes in the outrigger. Hope this helps Nick I'll post the pic this time.... :B
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See attached pic. Dimensions should be treated with a degree of caution as for various reasons I can't lift the car just now and it's too low to get under. Holes appear to be 12mm (1/2") from the edges (top and bottom) of the outrigger. I can't measure the whole tie rod length with the wheel on, but the distance between the ends of the two tube sections is 67mm. (jam nuts included within that 67mm). No reason why this will also be correct on yours - toe must be set once assembled and at normal running height. Note that roto chassis brackets are different - can't see any in your pic...... Note also that there are anti-crush tubes in the outrigger. Hope this helps Nick
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^^ What he said. ^^ I can measure my car (Vit mk2), which has original rear outriggers, if you get stuck . You'll also have some brake pipe re-routing to do and note that the rotoflex rear has different handbrake cable guides mounted on the tub rather than the chassis. With the CV shafts you may find that the existing arrangement can be connected (fouls on roto couplings when fitted) but I think you'll find the handbrake adjustment varies wildly with suspension position...... I have a Mk2 chassis and mk 1 tub so I know these things :( Nick
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Sweet! What is that tandem master cyl from? Looks like you have got it on without chopping the bulkhead too - is that a LHD priveledge? Nick
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Hmm, interesting - seems they are all very similar lengths. And Mk2 Vitesse is all soft too...... Thanks for posting that John! Nick
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You need to use a rotoflex spring with the roto rear as they are different lengths. You would probably be better using a Vitesse one as it will be stronger than the the GT6 one and more suitable for the extra weight of the Herald, espcially if you want to carry passengers, luggage and stuff..... The GT6 prop will be too short I'm afraid. If using standard gearbox you need the matching Vitesse propshaft. OD (D-type) and non-OD should be easy enough to come by. OD J-type a little trickier possibly depending on how the gearbox has been built (gearbox can be same length as D type OD one or 1" longer, needing a 1" shorter propshaft). See http://www.canleyclassics.com/infodatabase.asp?article=propshafts Cheers Nick
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Good friend of mine is in the process of building up a 1275 A series with BMW K series (bike) 16V head. Surprisingly easy really. That's also destined for an A30. Nick