Jump to content

Nick Jones

Club Member
  • Posts

    4,442
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. It’s all (mostly anyway) in the suction side. This is a system that operates on the edge and always has. The noise is cavitation, which crudely speaking, means that the fuel (or the most volatile components of it) is boiling at the entrance to the pump. Factors that affect this are: Fuel. Yes, modern fuel is more volatile than the old stuff. Ethanol content doesn’t help as although ethanol is less volatile than some of the other things in there, its overall effect is to increase the vapour pressure, which means it boils more easily. Whether E10 is worse than E5 I don’t know offhand. Temperature. We all know things boil when they get hot. It is mostly the temperature of the fuel itself that matters, though obviously ambient temperature contributes to this. One of the issues with Bosch pumps on a PI is that they are too big, so lots of fuel is continuously recirculating through the relief valve, which heats it up. The pumps draw about 100w and a big chunk of that ends up in the fuel. The less fuel in the tank, the faster it heats up. Pressure at the pump inlet. This is influenced by two things. 1. Static head, which is the height of the fuel level above the pump. More is better. Therefore a full saloon tank is much better than a nearly empty estate one (Sorry Pete!). 2. Friction losses, or resistance to flow, influenced by pipe sizes, elbows, bends, Ts and filters. Basically you want the suction line to be as straight as possible, as large diameter as possible, as short as possible and any filters/strainers need to give minimal pressure drop - so either very large surface area or fairly coarse. Note that a suction filter doesn’t have to be blocked solid to cause problems. A “bit restricted” is enough, especially combined with warm weather. The Bosch roller-cell pumps are not very fussy about particle size so you don’t need a fine filter in front of them. In fact, genuine Bosch pumps have a built-strainer and often have no additional pre-filter in OE applications, beyond a coarse “sock” on the pickup pipe. My own preference is to put a strainer on the inlet pipe (Baldwin do them with 10mm and 12mm tails) and a nice big, fine filter on the outlet where there’s plenty of pressure to spare. Something else to consider is that there are other types of pump available. The Lucas pump is actually a better match for the job than the Bosch. But mostly now old/knackered/etc. However Pierburg make gear pumps and screw pumps in similar packages to the Bosch roller-cell ones and some of those are more suitable as they don’t flow so much but still have sufficient pressure ability. I have previously posted details of these on the TRR forum, but years ago now so probably hard/impossible to find. I’ll have a proper look when sat at a computer. Meanwhile, anything you can do to enlarge and simplify the suction run to the pump will be of benefit! I also think you should compare notes on where you bought fuel….. ISTR a similar mass failure event on a 10CR where a whole bunch of cars had problems after buying fuel from the same place (altitude makes vapourisation problems worse too)
  2. Yes….. it was I. sorry you didn’t make there this time. Those early style core plugs are a little less secure. Or fussier about fitting correctly at least. It’s normal to build pressure as the engine warms up - was it blowing bubbles in the header tank? I had one come out of the back of the block on my Herald 1200 many years ago. That dumped hot water and steam into the front footwells as the tunnel cover didn’t fit very well….. Eeeek! Luckily, though I’d just driven 120 miles from London, it happened just as I was driving into my home village so I made home….
  3. I’m not I’m afraid. I’m struggling to get the parts. Possibly there are other more modern parts combination that will work but the remaining market is small. As regards the failures of other types, is this actually CV converted cars or after-market swing axles? If definitely CV converted rotoflex cars suffering failures I’m interested in more detail. I have an idea I know what might be causing that and how it could be prevented.
  4. Probably way too late now, but yes. These iron engines are pretty tough. Biggest challenge would be finding the replacement core plug, though could be tricky to fit depending which one it is. Not quite clear to me why driving through a deep puddle/flood would dislodge a core plug. Bad luck anyway. My commiserations.
  5. Sticking pistons in the calipers is a strong possibility unfortunately. The Lockheed “dust shield” arrangement seems designed to promote this. Taking the pads out one at a time and carefully pressing the brake pedal to pump the single piston out (don’t go too far!!) before levering it gently back in will give you an idea of how bad they are. If the chrome plating on the pistons is rusty/pitted, it’s rebuild time. Bear in mind that the saloon brake discs are really expensive, so if you do need to renew everything it’s worth considering finding a pair of Stag calipers to rebuild instead. The calipers and discs are a direct swap but the discs are cheaper and bigger and the calipers have slightly bigger pistons, so you getter better brakes. Actual pads stay the same and the whole lot looks almost the same as before. Just be careful that the wheels will still fit over the brakes. The original 13” steel wheels will not. 13” alloys sometimes fit. 14” good. If you just need a couple of standard size pistons is possible I have some ok used ones here….
  6. Looks great! Hopefully it’s driving great too? Controle Technique passed ok?
  7. Not really a characteristic. Possibly a little more direct than a modern, but should be perfectly possible to drive smoothly. Quite a few possible causes including broken gearbox or engine mounts (usually some sort noise/thump to give the game away).
  8. That’s a bit worse than usual I’d say! Though congratulations on having footwells that hold water!
  9. It’s a feature. They do this. My Vitesse does it anyway. Sometimes on drivers side also. Depends on slope and wind direction. It’s the area where the quarter light, A pillar and hood frame meet. No. It’s just possible it’s coming through the heater but means either that the drain flap is blocked or there’s a rust hole in the bulkhead. Worth checking but more likely it’s gaps around the edge of the hood/car interface. They are not all that waterproof.
  10. Pump similar to this? https://motorcyclepartswarehouse.co.uk/replacement-fuel-pump-for-yamaha-yzf-r600-xv535-virago-more.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw6p-oBhAYEiwAgg2Pgtkl6Z1y7F0ykJ7GWlb75IczTGSefDVFMCg5mvuYTyV9qxhnFUpbfhoCW-YQAvD_BwE
  11. I think you’ll find it’s sorted now. It might still get a bit crabby in traffic on hot days due to hot carbs but shouldn’t conk out entirely.
  12. IIRC the spray cone shape is similar between Bosch and Lucas. I would aim to have the tip of the injector just short of entering the inlet air passage. A few mm either way will make no noticeable difference.
  13. Bosch CIS (K-Jet) and Lucas PI injectors both have 50 psi pop- pressure and similar shape.
  14. End of an era…… must have been a wrench… Trust the Dolly serves you as well Don!
  15. Ewww…. “Ready for paint shop”. Not hardly……
  16. Slipping, or dropping out (going back to direct drive)? Different problems with different causes. The latter could be low oil or a dodgy electrical connection somewhere. The former is likely internal- worn clutches or possibly low operating pressure.
  17. Possibly Escort or Cortina with the Kent 1600. IIRC some of the 4 speed boxes have the same input shaft spline.
  18. Yes. True. This is why the Canley text copied further up this thread mentions flywheel bolt adapters - just four little collars to increase bolt ID at the critical point - to get around this. The actual location/centralisation is done by a dowel and the lip on the back of the flywheel so this is less flakey than it sounds. Torque is transmitted by the clamping friction, not the bolts….. I remember creating some adapters to match a 1500 flywheel to my Herald 1200 engine out of a piece of random steel pipe that happened to have the right diameters. I still have my feet….
  19. New/fresh rebuild have very little play. 2-3mm radial play at the tip is perfectly acceptable IMO. 1/2” is not…. Also worth checking whether there’s any axial play as that tends to be an indicator of whether the input shaft bearing is tired. This should be minimal.
  20. I have seen this written too, but no direct experience. You need that Pete fella on the TSSC forum….
  21. While it has “been done” at least once (and I’ve even been in the car), it involves a very special chassis as there is really no way (NO way!) that any of the auto boxes associated with the Triumph 6 are going to fit between the chassis rails.
×
×
  • Create New...