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sparky_spit

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  1. Hi Paul - I can answer one of the questions with certainty: once an Historic vehicle has an MOT issued it does not have to keep on having it done every year after that, you can please yourself if you do or don't. The only condition to this is that your car must still conform to the rules around what constitutes an "Historic Vehicle". As far as having to comply with any failures that a voluntary MOT throws up, I'm not sure; but common sense would say that any safety critical issue found must be rectified and re-tested. You would be in trouble with your insurance company at the very least if you had an accident while knowingly using a vehicle that had a MOT failure logged against it in the system, let alone the Police and the courts if it were a serious accident. But I'm not sure what the law actually says.
  2. Well done Pete. Looks like an absolute bargain; you can't really go wrong at that price, whatever you decide to do with it. I look forward to a new thread on here with all the news about your new car.
  3. Hi Adrian, doing the job yourself using a roll of copper piping, a flaring tool, and a box of male/female fittings is the best way in terms of getting a perfect length and bend for each pipe. I've done all of mine like this and it is not difficult once you have practised a few times with the flaring tool and its associated male/female dies to get the hang of it. It does not require much strength to make up ends and fittings, so if, for example, you are able to tighten 7/16" and 1/2" nuts and bolts okay then you should be okay with making up pipes. The only other things you'll need is a bench mounted vice to hold the flaring tool, a fine bladed hacksaw (Junior hacksaw is perfect) and a selection of files. The fact that most of the work is done performed on an item that is clamped in a vice should hopefully help any loss of strength in one hand maybe? If you find that bending the copper piping becomes difficult you could always anneal the area of pipe with a small blowtorch before bending. As far as limited vision is concerned, I'd guess that if you can see well enough to generally tighten and undo nuts and bolts etc., you should be okay with doing this? Only you can really decide this of course, but I hope I have given you some idea of what is physically involved. Best wishes - Mike PS - I'm not actually sure of the cost savings over buying all the kit and making your own or buying ready made; I bought my kit so that I'd always have it to hand if I needed a pipe in a hurry. Probably best to weigh up the difference in costs....
  4. Hi Tim - please see the private message sent via the messaging system (hopefully?!)
  5. Bearing in mind the Saab relationship to the Sprint engine, would this fit? 1988 Classic Saab 900 16 Valve SPG Turbo 2.0L Intake Manifold | eBay Cheap as chips in comparison....
  6. Hi Steve - Moordale Motors in Potters Bar are well recommended. Moordale Motors, Restoration Triumph repairs maintenance uk (triumph-car-restoration.uk.com)
  7. Are you sure that the front pulley is not slipping round on its rubber damper, so that you are actually setting the timing incorrectly?
  8. BT apprentice at 16, climbing poles and having fun. Managing design/development/deployment of BT smartphone apps at 57. Much less fun. Retired at 58
  9. Perfect - I didn't think of those. I'll order some now. Thanks!
  10. Just before the 2019 10CR I bought new rear trunnion kits to fit to my Spitfire. I ended up not using them as they were dimensionally wrong (see other threads on this) and reused the best bits of my collection of used spare ones. I now need to replace the nearside one as it has developed too much play. Has anyone bought a kit recently and found it to now be okay? And have the top-hat bush flange ends been squared off properly to support the O ring seal? I suspect they all come from the same manufacturer, regardless of end retailer, and just don't want to end up with useless parts again.
  11. I've been following this thread as I have a Mk3 FD engine and a single rail OD gearbox which I fitted years ago. Your last post about the bodged extended clutch pushrod jogged my memory and I remembered that I had to extend my pushrod too, so that I got proper clutch release action. I was using the fine spline friction plate intended for the Toledo and Morris Marina I think. Apologies for not remembering sooner..... Somewhere there is a forum thread about this issue with dimensions etc, although it was many years ago, and might even have been on the TSSC or Sideways forum.
  12. Hi Ben, I have a new and unused/undrilled GRP valence for a Mk1/2 Spitfire. It's a Honeybourne Moulding one and still in the wrapper. I bought it a while ago in their sale as a spare for my Mk3, but probably will never use it, as it would need quite a bit of fiddling with to make it fit a Mk3. If it is of interest I can take some pics and you can see what it looks like.
  13. When I did the last quick-and-dirty engine swap singlehanded, 3 days before the last 10CR I left as much still on the car as I could. The engine came out using a chain block attached to a beam in my garage, with the bonnet still on and the gearbox still in the car. The radiator was moved forward and the gearbox bell housing supported on 2 wooden blocks placed between the chassis each side and the webs on the bellhousing. A bit of wiggling with a jack underneath and the engine came out forward and up. The spare engine went back in very quickly afterwards. Lining up the input shaft was okay, just enough room to do it using a threaded stud in the topmost bellhousing hole and turning the crank pully slightly to get the splines engaged, and more wiggling on the supporting jack. I do have hydraulic bonnet struts which makes the bonnet open much further and almost upright, but as Danny says, you could rig something up to replicate this. Its doable if you are in a hurry, but taking the bonnet off is safer if you have help at hand.
  14. I've tried that method with worrying noises before Clive, as well as putting my hands over ears and singing along with the tune. It didn't work.... Looks like the box is coming out then. If I'm really organised I might get my new, new, engine back together and stick that in at the same time. Pigs might fly.
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