djw113uk

My understanding is that while you don't need an MOT on a historic vehicle, if you put it in and it fails, then it shouldn't be driven on the road again until it is fixed and re-tested. I think driving to a place to get it fixed is probably reasonable, but it shouldn't carry on being 'used' until the necessary repair is completed and it has gained a 'pass'. I guess if you got a really awkward person stopping you then you could be in trouble, but since the MOT on line check probably just shows as green and 'no results returned' then there shouldn't be anything to trigger them stopping you in the first place?

Where abouts are you? It might be worth someone having a look to evaluate how much work would need doing!

As I understand it: If you get a fail, then you must fix it and get a pass before you can use it on the road. However, if you have an mot and it expires then you just continue using it. Perhaps others can confirm or correct me?

Renault 21 disc. 265mm (the hard to find one!)

Says he who had an MOTed vitesse ready to go, but used his Spitfire instead due to a few teething problems..... I wanted to use the stag, but my little brother refused. I even had the offer of help from Craig and Dave Marshall locally, but had to keep my co-driver on side.

Fix the yellow stag (which I had planned for 2016, but only got as far as looking underneath!) This should involve: lots of welding 3.9 efi Rover v8 4hp22 auto box BMW diff CDD CV drive shafts and hubs Jag brakes on front BMW e30 servo improved seats fitting a hood. superforma  wheel spacers Rover 800 16" wheels LPG conversion HID headlamps x4 front and rear foglights So yes  - that's basically my saloon, but auto in a convertible shell! It would be nice to have it done and use it for 10CR 2017 as a practice trip, but in reality we'll probably be fitting the diff on the Thursday before the start like usual!

Alex, I am sorry but it looks much better with the cover on it! And I cannot believe you still haven't cleaned the rest to match the bonnet.

It will be the clutch slave cylinder jammed at the end of its travel. This often happens after a prolonged lay-up! Be careful taking the slave out as all the force of the clutch will be trying to push it out of the clamp as you undo it.

I expect the steering lock is the same as a 2000 and dolomite?  where abouts are you?

All this talk of current entry numbers... where does it come from? The latest list I can see is only up to about 85... earlier in this thread!

ECU now into the passenger footwell and the olds birdsnext removed from the engine bay. Just taken for a quick spin and all seems good. Ni'night!

We tried cleaning the old pressure relief value, fitting a used one, and then fitting a new Witor one. Didn't solve the problem on ours!

Our 2.5pi used to do this, particularly on start up - 70psi down to 20 and back again. We stripped the engine checked the pump, bearings, thrusts, etc and couldn't find anything wrong. However when we removed the spin on conversion one of the sealing washers was chewed up, so we put it down to that. spin on housing resealed and all was well. However, unless the oil is at maximum on the dipstick it still does it occasionally. And no there was nothing apparently wrong with pick up tube etc. Has to be worth swapping the spin on housing seals just to be sure?

If I keep it, it'll be well used. I do a lot of motorway miles - all over the country, which the MKII V8 saloon eats up quite happily. How many miles is considered "prolonged motorway use"? 30 miles at 70 (+ish) down to Bristol? 70 miles down the M40 to London? or only 150 + up the m6? My thought as I get it back to roadworthy condition (brake cyls, clutch slave, balljoints etc, is that an oil cooler will prolong its life

Spin off conversion? - that is for straight six's only isn't it? I haven't seen one for the 4 cyls. But Moss, Canleys,  etc seem to list a non return 'tube' that is used with the oil cooler adaptor?