willcolumbine
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Everything posted by willcolumbine
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Yes, 7.6kg is the weight of the standard one I had lying around in my garage. Not sure how much my lightened one weighs. I normally weigh stuff like this to satisfy my curiosity but it was a last minute job before the RBRR so I was in a bit of a hurry and just threw it in. As far as the benefits go, the effect is quite subtle, the car picks up revs quicker. They die off quicker too but I haven't found that to be problematic in the slightest. Worth fitting if you've got the engine out but I'm not sure the performance increase would have been worth the time, money and hassle if I'd had to remove the engine specifically to fit it. I think that, if you managed to lighten the standard flywheel to the point where it effected the idle, setting the idle rpm would be the least of your worries!
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Just weighed my old Spitfire 1500 flywheel - it weighs 7.6kg. I wouldn't worry about the idle - you can't really take enough off a standard flywheel to make a huge amount of difference. I bought my lightened standard flywheel of another forum regular and haven't noticed any idle related ill effects! :)
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The 1500 has a longer throw crankshaft and has a bulge near the front to provide clearance that the earlier ones don't have. When I made a baffle, I used an earlier sump and had to make that bulge by using a big hammer!
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When I'm doing thin stuff I always make sure the fit up is really tight - nothing worse than trying to weld air and melting the edges! I've also found it helps to use a backing peice and I've now got a thick piece of copper specially for the purpose. That sucks the excess heat out of the welding area and seems to keep things nice and flat. When it comes to the welding itself, I usually start by tacking the piece in. When it comes to doing the actual weld, I've found a 'pulse' technique works best. I normally start over one of the tacks and then after a second or so, release the trigger. After a second or so, and with the weld still hot, I then pull the trigger again and roll the next short weld off the previous one. I don't normally do more than a few cm at a time to keep the warpage down. It's worth looking at your machine too. Minimum amps on most is about 30-35 but some cheap and nasty welders can have double that and that's really going to make thin metal a challenge!
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This worked well for me. Sounds like the same thing Dave is talking about! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1dMdYgRK4
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Not sure why you're making slow progress with the clean and strip discs - they should absolutely carve through paint of any thickness. A dronco one on an angle grinder stripped my whole rear wing in about 5 minutes. Gritblasting isn't really bad for panelwork. It's just that most commercial operations use a huge compressor and massive amounts of grit to get the job done as quickly as possible. My home set up with a 3hp compressor is slow but effective and there's no chance of distorting anything!
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The housing is attached to the head with bolts but the pump is attached to the housing with studs. Is it one of the bolts to the head that's sheared off?
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I've thought about reskinning mine in aluminium to save a few grams but it looks like it might get a bit complex at the top where it meets the doorglass.
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At a guess it looks like a 10"?
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I had a similar thing when I first got into spitfires and it turned out to be a big end bearing. Might be worth checking those if you're going to take the sump off anyway!
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You can go down as low as 12" if you want to. It feels a bit like driving a car using a shirt button and it can feel a bit twitchy at first if you've got solid rack mounts and no slop in the steering but you get used to it! The steering also starts to get a bit heavier with a 12", especially if you've got sportier tyres.
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I just used ordinary silicone hose for mine. You're supposed to use flurolined hoses for oil but mine were fine for years until I replaced them with a catch tank arrangement. I cut them a bit longer than in the pic so they had a nice smooth curve to them and didn't kink.
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Richard_B wrote:The SAH ones are period cool. 8) Not to mention the fact that they're a seriously solid investment! The prices of them on ebay seem to have gone up something like 50% in 2 years!
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Sounds like dirt has got into the fuel line and got in the carb jets! Do you run a fuel filter?
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I dragged mine out, gave them a good scrubbing with Autoglym upholstry cleaner and jet washed them outside on the drive. Took a while to dry but the results were good without risking shrinkage in the washing machine!
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Is the bleed nipple in the top or bottom hole in the slave cylinder. If it's in the bottom there is a chance air will be trapped in the top part of the slave cylinder. Also check the hole in the top of the pedal. They get elongated with time and are well worth checking. This is a good tip too! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1dMdYgRK4
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rotoflex wrote: I unfortunately know because I left some small steel parts in a container of a typical liquid phosphoric acid rust remover product for several days, erroneously thinking there was no need to monitor it as the reaction would end when the iron oxide was gone. The phosphoric acid variously ate through, pitted, severely diminished, or obliterated the parts. Ditto with me! I left some grub screws for a lathe in a rust remover product for a week and when I wire brushed them clean the threads brushed off!
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Nice one Phil! That's a really nice guide. :)
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Nice! If my car looks half as good as that when I'm done welding, I'll be chuffed! :)
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339 wrote:single exit big bore rock!! just watch the rear bumper discolour as the tail pipe isn't quite long enough Another vote for the big single bore from me! Worth a bit of bumper polishing for the sound alone and it's less weight than the twin boxes!
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Can't believe it looks that good straight from the gun! Awesome! 🙂
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2057 wrote:PaulB, would you then run a few wires from the negative terminal to the bodywork & engine? They would need to be against bare metal of course? The standard arrangement is a braided strap running from the negative terminal to the point on the bodywork where yours attaches and then following the line of the loom down to bolt up with one of the bellhousing bolts near the starter.
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Nice car! That's negative earth. All you need to do to tell is to follow the cable from the negative battery terminal. If it goes to the bodywork then it's negative earth!
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I can't find a minimum drum thickness in my books or on the internet either and my car isn't at home at the moment for me to look at! If I were you I'd just get new ones. They're not that expensive and it'll save you a good deal of hassle both now and in the future. All things considered, I think it's the only sensible thing to do, especially if you've fitted new shoes.
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I don't know off the top of my head but there's usually writing cast or stamped into the drum that tells you!