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Hogie

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  1. serious blow by. As above check compression pressure etc. Check all the pipes in the breathing system - they may be blocked. Roger
  2. Hi, Dye pen is not the best method for checking FerroMagnetic steel. Magnetic Particle is the top choice. However you do need a decent magnet system to make it work. Like Nick I would have thought there would be a greater pink background rather than stark white. So this begs the questions - How did you clean the VL? How did you remove the excess penetrant from the surface.? The cleaning process should include some form of hot Trichl....... for an hour or so. The penetrant should be cleaned off by using a dry paper towel to get the majority off and then a damped paper towel (damped in the remover fluid). This would leave a pink background. Apply the developer in a very thin coat and watch it as it dries. If there is any cracking the dye will show this as a fine line BUT will start to smudge quite quickly and lose its definition. If you apply a thick coat of developer (yours looks thick but I may be wrong) then you will not see a fine line or the corrosion pits as it will start to smudge from the onset. As stated above the cracking should occur at the end of the threaded area. Also check the profile of the thread form. If they do not look symetrical then that will add to the sidesays play. Roger
  3. Hi Harry, have you tried via the Tiger cub club https://tigercubclub.com/ Roger
  4. I think it is quite exciting when you cut the rot out, clean and prep the remains and then weld in good metal. Top marks to you. Roger
  5. Hi Ben, rather than remove the rust why not use one of the rust Converters (Kurust etc) Remove the excess rust with emery etc and then apply the Converter, allow to dry the apply primer. Also, don't forget that you can't remove ALL the rust. What is on the surface is easy to see but the intergranular corrosion keeps on going. It can be slowed down dramatically - but not removed. Roger
  6. The replacement VL may or may not be forged. But is there an issue if it is cast. I would suggest no. The early (up to the late 30's) crank shafts were forged but then a decent casting process found the casting worked well. Nearly all automobile cranks are now cast. The benefits of forging is that the grain flow is continuous and gives strength - and then you drill a hole or machine a face and knocks that idea into a cocked hat. Thread rolling is indeed the top preference in threads that need that extra bit. The threads on the VL are not under that much load. They don't appear to shear off or do anything silly. The root of the thread should still be nicely rounded if you have a decent die/tap. The thread run out is a problem area when cutting with a die as it tends to end abruptly - in general engineering terms this is not a good idea as it becomes a stress raiser. It could be fettled with a file and emery. But then consider- do they really fail at this position due to the thread run out. You would need to analyse the crack face of a failed VL to make an assessment - and I am sure this has been done. So unless you ask the questions of the manufacturers as to what process they use then you are stuck with the 'over the counter' offerings. I would go with either - 1 - take your VL to a suppliers of trunnions and try them out to get the best fit. 2 - if the above fails then buy a new VL and try out the trunnions in the shop. Roger
  7. Hi Craig, that is a nice looking car. Of all the Herald/Vitesse shapes the coupe is my favourite. I'm going up the M40. Roger
  8. It can't be upside down- the oil will dribble out
  9. The problem with the noise is not just lack of lubrication but that it is in the throes of disintegrating. Change it and be a satisfied happy bunny, PS - is it possible to simply pull the GB rearwards (rather than complete removal) and change the bearing whilst still inside the car (I am using my TR4A as a basis for this idea) Roger
  10. Did you know - the top of the flange (12-o-clock position) of a railway wheel travels at twice the speed of the vehicle it is attached to. Also the 6-o-clock position of the flange on the same wheel is always going backwards Roger
  11. evolution. many years ago they roamed the young planet Earth as huge dinosuarasses Roger
  12. Hi Folks, I've been assured by a friend at Moss that their tensioner is the same as the original. The wear is caused by cheap chains. As Nick pointed out they are not finished to the same old standard. However fret not - the German chain (I think it is IWIS) is very good. Moss sell a German chain but do not state who makes it. My chain & tensioner are Moss items and have been going well now for at least 6 years. Sadly the suppliers who sell the good chain also sell the cheap ones - Doh!! Did Renold ever make the chains for the TR 4 pot engine.? Example of the TR2/4A https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/engines-components/internal-engine-tr2-4a-1953-67.html Roger
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