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That Man

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  1. Unfortunately our monthly meetings are currently suspended, We hope to restart them soon.
  2. Hi Gilles Sorry I only have just seen your new post. The first two pictures above do show the "normal" engine mount setup that does indeed use the same mounts as the 200/2500 saloons. The diagram 4.102 shows a prototype pre-production setup, this setup also included a small damper fitted between the rear of the engine and the bulkhead, this was not used in production on UK models. The factory parts book does list a different engine mounting setup using a different front engine plate, and the rear damper. but it lists this as being for "special orders" The rubber mount associated with this setup is different to the usual one, I've done quick google search and it may be the same as the Morris Marina 1800/Ital engine mount. Does your car have the damper at the rear of the engine? I've only seen this fitted to French cars for some reason, maybe they also use the differing front mount setup as well.
  3. According to my wiring diagram Brown/Blue is terminal 1,White to 2,White/Red to 3, terminal 4 is for accessories/Radio IIRC Yes, you're right smart phone cameras are very useful when taking things apart!
  4. 2016 RBRR Knebworth to Blyth. Myself and Mad uncle Ted, in his 2500 mk2 estate. This was filmed using a GoPro hero4 Silver. A word of warning I managed to over-heat the GoPro by having it powered by usb for nearly 30 hours straight, better to have a few batteries and charge them separately, battery life is about one section anyway.
  5. Really liking the new website/forum. Top marks to all of those involved. If this doesn't drag people back from FB then nothing will! It don't see how to post anything in the Local Groups section? Am I missing something or is it on the "to do" list?
  6. No Problem Walt, Glad to help. It's the reason we're here!
  7. If you don't know the specifications of the cam you intend to use it does make it very difficult to set it correctly. If you are sure it's a original Triumph factory cam it will be symmetrical so you would use the method described in the workshop manual for camshaft alignment If it's a after market cam it should be marked by the manufacturer as to which profile it has.
  8. It's when the valve either starts to open or finishes closing with standard valve clearances. If measuring the camshaft directly it gets tricky as you'd need to calculate what the valve clearance would be at the follower, this would be very important as the quietening ramps are very shallow and would give a big variation in the angles you'd measure. Also remember it crankshaft degrees not camshaft degrees.  
  9. yes,the bearing is not supposed to retract fully, the 1/8" gap is just to allow for wear. As long as the bearing is not tight against the diaphragm it's ok
  10. I have been looking, I have too many hiding places for parts. I have not given up yet!
  11. Although the Dolomite and Toledo ones can't be used a 1500fwd one can. I'll have a look to see if I have a good second hand one. Where in the world are you?
  12. Hi Walt. What leads you to think there are any differences in cv joints for the 1300fwd? I've never seen or hear of any differences. The only difference I know of is that the 1500fwd does have larger cv's than the 1300fwd. these are interchangeable so long as you use the 1500fwd driveshaft as well because the internal spline of the cv is larger. So maybe some previous owner changed to 1500fwd driveshafts for some reason, they are thought to be stronger and longer lasting. Both 1300fwd and 1500fwd CV's are unique to the triumph models
  13. Walt. 1300fwd dampers are unique to the model, 1500fwd/TC as well as Toledo and Dolomite dampers are too long. But the correct ones are available for the 1300fwd.They are Made by GAZ and sold by Rimmer Bros. I bought some last year for my 1300TC.
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