Harveyzone

Hi all, Any ideas why my (Spitfire 1500) windscreen wipers seem to move at the same speed when on both settings? It all seems to work correctly but both speed settings are the same. There seems to be 5 connectors to the motor, on for each speed, one for 'single wipe', one for constant 12v, and one for earth. I'm not sure how it works but it doesn't look like it has different gearings. Any thoughts? Cheers, Tom.

Thanks all, I am going to see what Canley's say, and maybe get some replacements. Tom.

Hi Paul, Yes, I have directly swapped the bulbs around and tried them all in each others sockets. I have actually bought a couple of news cheapy bulbs off ebay that were advertised as 10-30v rather than the 12v that are generally stated, (just out of curiosity), and they are far, far better. Much brighter than the previous working bulbs, and much greater differentiation between between the tail lights, and when the brakes are applied. I am fairly sure that the old wiring is losing some power and that some bulbs are better able to cope than others. Not all LED bulbs, even from reputable sellers, are equal! Tom.

Hi all, Does anyone know to where is best to get some reliable, and correct size, bulb holders for the rear light clusters (in a spitfire 1500)? Of the 6 holders I have, 4 are ok, and 2 (a 'single' reverse light, and a 'twin' stop and tail), are slightly to big so do not push into the holes properly. They pop out and I have to kind of wedge them in. Are there two different sizes available? Basically I don't want to buy the wrong size again and have the same problem. Additionally, the larger 'twin' stop and tail bulb holder that I have has 3 spade connectors on it - an extra one for the earth, but the correct fitting one doesn't and relies on the connection to the cluster to provide the earth. The extra connector is a good addition and means that I have never have earthing issues on that side. Cheers, Tom.

Hi all, By way of a quick update, I got hold of some diodes, and soldered them into some fuse holders with the springs removed, and a male/female spade clip on each end. They now just slot neatly into the existing circuit, and are easy to remove if necessary. This seems to have solved the problems! 🥳 One set of bulbs refused to work properly, which I think is due to the fact that I am only getting about 10.5v at the bulb on the brake lights circuit (they seem to work with 12v, but not with 10.5v) but the other sets worked as advertised, so obviously have different tolerances, but overall I am happy🙂. Now on to the next problems, whatever they are... Thanks all, Tom.

Thanks Paul - That sounds like a sensible approach that I hadn't though of. I don't think I have any, but I will see if I can get hold of some and try it. Shouldn't have to mess about like that for bulbs that are advertised as a straight swap for conventional bulbs. 🙁

And an additional thing that I have just noticed (hadn't noticed this before as I had been concentrating on the rear light clusters), but which makes absolute sense now that I know what the cause of the problem is, is that when I apply the breaks, the 10v bleed (in the opposite direction), causes the number plate and front side lights to light up.

Hi all, Apologies all - events have transpired against me and I have only just had a chance to look at this again after two weeks of other priorities. I checked out all the earths again, and all looked good, so I decided to take the car and even the bulb holders completely out of the equation and just connected the bulb directly to the battery. Outside straight to earth, and 12v across one connector then the other - I get a bright light from one side, and a dimmer light on the other - one for stop and one for tail, as it should be. Now, if I take some volt readings, I get the 12v on the side connected to the bulb connector, as expected, but I get c10v coming across the bulb and the other connector, when nothing is connected to it. This 10v is obviously what is going back up the brake light circuit when the lights are on and is lighting the high level light. If I swap t the other connector I get exactly the same, but a bright/dimmer light (depending on the side). So I am getting 10v leaking across the LED bulbs. I have tried this on all six LED bulbs of two different designs, from two different sources, (one, a no-name ebay seller, and one, Badboy Classics, that were recommended to me) and they all do the same. Is this a 'feature' of all combined stop/tail LEDs, and if so, how do you deal with it? I know that you often need ballast resistance connected in parallel for LED indicators lamps, but I understand that this is due to bleed through the dash board light and shouldn't(?) be an issue for stop/tail circuits. Would adding resistance to one/both circuits make a difference, and if so, where? Has anybody else see this problem? How was it resolved? Is there anyone who has successfully replaced their stop tail bulbs with LEDs that could do a quick voltage measurement across the connectors when only one of them has power to see if they get similar bleed? Apologies - my knowledge of electronics is pretty basic. Many thanks, Tom

Hi Howard, My first thought was earth - it always is with light problems! On a 1500 they are a single bulb for stop tail - two filaments traditionally, but just dim/bright on an LED. The one bulb holder has an extra earth connector on it which runs to the body. The other one doesn't - it relies on the clips to earth against the cluster. I am pretty sure that the earths are all good, but just to be sure I have run a wire back to the battery as you suggest. I get 0/12v off/on for the tail lights. I get 0/12v off/on for the brake lights when the tail lights are off. AS soon as I put the tails light son I get 8/12v for the off/on for the brake lights (!) I have tried two different sets of bulbs - the first set were cheapy ebay ones which I couldn't get to work, the second set are more expensive ones from a reputable dealer, which were recommended by several people on various forums, which display the same symptoms. I have all but eliminated the bulbs as the problem (unless I am very unlucky!). Tom.

Hi all, So I swapped out my stop/tail bulbs for LEDs. A straight swap, and all ok. But whilst I was at it I thought I would add a high level 3rd brake light, and that is where the problems started. I simply connected the +/- wires of the 3rd light to the +/- of the brake light connector at the rear bulb holder. So far so good. All working correctly. However, as soon as I turn on my lights the 3rd light comes on and stay on continually. Rear lights still work correctly. When I press the brake pedal the 3rd light gets a little brighter. When the tail lights are on I seem to get around 9v on the brake lights which goes up to around 11v when the brakes are applied. It is at 0v/11v when the tails lights are off. There is some sort of bleed/short between the tail and stop lights that is not enough to light the rear bulbs, but is enough to light the 3rd light that I have added.(It's a Spitfire 1500, if that makes a diference). Is there someone who knows more about electricity that I do that can tell me how to fix this? Many thanks, Tom.

You guys have given me some confidence. I might just buy the foams and fixings etc from Park Lane, and see if I can re-use the existing covers with a few repairs. Now to decide on that exhaust!

Sorry for the slow reply - it has been a hectic week! The seats are shabby, and actually not too bad generally, except for a small section of the drivers seat that looks like this: It looks like a cigarette burn, and a tear along the join which looks like the front and the backing cloth have separated. I don't know how mendable this would be.

Ooo, I do like the look of that one, but £840! Wow. Before I even consider it, has anyone here tried it? Can anyone vouch for the quality, performance, or sound that it makes? I notice that they also sell one called "Phoenix Stainless Steel Sports Exhaust System Single Box Performance Large Bore - Quiet" for £732. Does anyone have any experience of that one, or pictures of how it looks fitted? Cheers, Tom.

See, now I have a dilemma. Everyone keeps telling me how good Park Lane are, so maybe I should just go for their nice leather kit, but a niggling in the back of my head will always say they should be houndstooth. I suppose what I really want is for Park Lane to do a houndstooth set. Or for them to do a full kit without the covers, and to find someone that does a good quality cover set in houndstooth. As for exhausts, you have given me two more options, making it a harder decision 😂. I quite like the idea of a 4/2/1 manifold, and a free flowing back box that looks much like the original ones, but maybe with twin pipes. Is there anything like that available that can be recommended?

Hi all, Having got everything working on my Spitfire 1500, and actually being able to drive it again, on a real road, and everything, I have come to the conclusion that I need to do two jobs fairly urgently (amongst the very many!): Replace the seat foams/covers (the foam has all but completely disintegrated, and the the cloths are not in great condition). Replace the exhaust (blowing in several places, and probably needs to be completely replaced including manifold. So, starting with seats: I am told that Park Lane Classics are very good, and do full kits which makes life easier, but I really wanted something like the original stag grain houndstooth covers, and they seem to only do leather or full vinyl. Looking around, houndstooth covers are readily available, but vary considerably in price, and finish (vinyl grain etc). Rimmer's, for example, seem to everything, but not in a kit, and individually priced are nearly double the cost of the Park Lane leather kit. Does anyone have any experience or advice on what to look for, where to buy, and where to avoid? And exhausts. Currently it is a 4/2/1 twin performance exhaust that is pretty noisy (possibly partly due to the extra holes), no idea on brand etc (over 30 years old since PO). I don't mind a sporty tone, but not after full on 'look-at-me' boy-racer. I am also not wedded to a twin (aesthetically they often seem to look too close together or too far apart to me). So, any recommendations for a decent performance stainless steel exhaust that looks good and isn't too noisy? cheers, Tom.