Pete Lee
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Everything posted by Pete Lee
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Wise choice you won't loose money.
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My current spitfire has overdrive, my previous ones didn't. Wouldn't be without one now. Motorway speeds are 60 max at 4000 rpm without 70 plus cruising at 3000rpm with. My gearbox has around 80000 miles on it now no problems. I strongly suspect the overdrive is original so has over 200,000 miles on it without problems, I think I cleaned the filter when I fitted the current gearbox.
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Hi Doug, I suspect the thread has stripped, it's only a short plastic thread, recently stripped mine after 14 years, luckily I had a spare. Either that or its not on the correct slot.
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2402 wrote:The rear end should be lovely over the bumps. I've got lovely rear end suspention over bumps. Chris. Chris, I wasn't referring the the cars rear end :X Yes could be in the brackets, have you fitted polybush or rubber suspension bushes?
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I was recomended 28PSI all way round years ago, not had any problems.
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Can't say I have any steering wheel vibration, yes you can feel the road and the ride is firm especially with uprated suspension. Pot holes do send a shock through the car. On the whole my car gets better, replaced the upper steering column bush and the car felt so much more like it should. Back in the day the suspension was always "sporty", The roads of Birmingham back in the late 70's were just as bad as they are now - how we long for the past ;D. Dont expect the car to be modern, you're rear end is only a few inches off the road, this was designed as a traditional British sports car, enjoy :)
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Also search the MGB EXPERIENCE website for tuning twin su carburettors.
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932 wrote:thats how i thought they would be, but nope. currently at 33 flats out from fully in but not sure if this is higher than bridge or not, tested with colour tune today and blue spark/flame when ticking over and if open the throttle it goes orange briefly then back to blue again, cant try lifting pins as both are seized up. I think this is part of the problem, 12 flats is from when the top of the jet is level with the bridge not from the fully wound in position. If from the fully wound up position then you could be winding out by 30odd flats. You can use a drill of the correct size to lift the piston, it should be 1/16" diabetes not 1/4" as I said before. Personally I don't like the colour tune I find listening to the engine far easier and accurate when adjusting the mixture. There are some very useful articles on the mgb experience website on SU carburettors, including an excellent one by Roger Garnett.
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As I said earlier the older HS4 carbs have a different jet bearing, this is the set I am now using. The major difference to the later carbs is the dashpots. Yesterday I swapped back to the non waxstat conversion jets due to a leak. My problem with the conversion kit was a gunked up linkage causing one of the jets to stick open on choke. I set them to 12 flats as normal, tuning resulted in making them a bit leaner, less than 2mm below the bridge and slightly higher than the jet bearing. If yours are much lower then they must be too rich, I cannot see this being the result of the jet bearing. What happens to the engine speed if you raise the piston 1/4"?
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I had a thought, the jet on my conversion kit are longer than the waxstat jets. If you start with the jets fully wound up then you will have to wind them down further than the waxstat jets to get the same position for the top of the jets. Could this be your problem?
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On mine the black plastic bit is a bung, it sticks out about 0.5mm. When I set up the carbs this afternoon I started with the jet flush with the bridge in the carburettor. Turned it down by 12 flats, but I forgot to fit the pipes from the rocker cover and ended up turning the jets down much further to get it to run, maybe worth checking your breather system if you have not done so yet.
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Hi Rich, I was nearly finished when I loosened one of the pipes to the float chamber accidently, another leak so I am leaving it to another day to finish. Anyway I have a few photos that may help you. Pic one is the later carb (FXZ1122 ) damper with the needle correctly installed, pic 2 shows it incorrectly installed. The needle comes out from underneath, its secured by the screw you can see. I suspect that if the needle is proud it will bottom out, but this could prevent the piston from returning properly causing fast idle and a mixture setting imbalance between the 2 carbs. In pic 1 you can also see the piece of black plastic and 2 holes in the bottom of the piston. Pic 3 is the jet adjuster position now I have the carb set up. I do think you have the incorrect bearings for your carbs so no problem if you want to get the correct ones. On the FZX1258 carbs I have the bearing is the same as yours.
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Hi Rich, the needle moves. As more air is sucked in the damper rises making the needle rise to thinner point allowing more fuel through. So if the needle is lower then the optimum idle point is lower therefore the jet will be lower. But it can only really go down so far. I have made progress today, rebuilt carbs fitted and looks like I have got the mixture right and the carbs balanced, just stopped for a cuppa then back out to set the choke. Had a big leak though, the pipe from the jets to the float chamber needed tightening more than I had. I think the old carbs were leaking as I was finding it difficult to set them properly, but then they have done over 200,000 miles ;D
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The jet bearing should not affect the position of the jet, this is set to the needle, if the needle is too low then the jet will be too low.
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I checked my later pistons and they have a piece of black plastic so that sounds right. But I am thinking you may have a bitsa carb setup as only 1 carb has this, plus the jet bearing is probably from earlier carbs. I'll take some photos of my late carbs and post them later. Do you know what needles you have?
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From my experience 39mpg does not sound that bad. Back in the late 70's and early 80's I used to get 29 to 30 mpg from my MKIV and MKIII, I average 34 to 36 mpg now, that's on a 45mile run to work with overdrive. I think I can remember getting over 40 mpg once, this would have been on one occasion with the MKIV when touring abroad on a long run. If the mixture looks good, the spark plugs are a good colour then the mixture should be correct. Other factors are tyres and type pressure and timing. The height of the jet bearing won't affect the mixture although I am thinking it may affect the turbulence in the carburettor.
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Hi Rich, just reading this thread as I have been rebuilding my spare carbs for fitting tomorrow. I am not sure you have a problem with the jet bearing. On my older set of carbs the jet bearing is the same as yours, on the newer set the bearing is flush. The newer carbs are original for my 1979 Spitfire, the older set are from a 1977 Spitfire I had as a spares car. One set are FXZ1122 and the other set are FZX1258. I think these had different bearings so shouldn't cause a problem. I also had the non waxstat conversion, but after a layup they had started sticking so I will be trying the waxstat jets but with the wax pellet removed and replaced with washers.
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There are plenty of cheap poor quality trunion bushes out there, took me sometime to get a decent set for the rear after I eventually went to Canley classics. The bolt tightens allowing the vertical link on the rear or brass trunion on the front to pivot. If the tube is too short the whole joint will end up being solid and it won't pivot.
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It's a good easy answer to the old problem. I have my unmolested panel in storage and riveted a aluminium panel with a cut out for the radio to the H panel and then recovered the whole thing.
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I'm currently working on a 3 gauge centre panel as part of my dashboard refurb, years ago I made a 4 gauge centre panel. I like the gauge by the rev counter, it looks less after thought. I have also mounted instruments in the h panel radio blank which looks good. For my current 1500 I riveted a panel to the h panel to replace the radio blank and recovered the complete h panel so no need for a blanking panel.
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7919 wrote:I haven't done it yet, but this is on this years to-do list too. I was planing on getting the Aldon Ignitor II. I could be wrong, but I think it is also marketed with the name Pertronix. Depends on the country.
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Very good upgrade. I fitted an Aldon Ignitor system 10 years ago, it's a fit and forget. It all fits in the distributor. The TR has a luminition system, it has a separate box and more wires. Both work very well. The main benefit is a stable output, points bounce, need adjustment and replacement.
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If I remember correctly triumph only fitted a mirror on the drivers side as standard. I don't believe there are any predrilled holes. The mirrors are secured by self tapping screws. Back in the 70s my mkiv only had one mirror, it came from a ford cortina, my mkiii did not have any mirrors.