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Dave1360

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  1. Dave1360
    Ah, it was you - apologies from the two idiots waving madly at you from a 2018 Fiesta! I can't remember exactly where or when it was but we did the NC500 and then over to Skye for a few days. It was tempting to take the Vitesse but the 500 mile journey up and then back would have been too much (for us, rather than for the car). You had great weather for it too.
  2. Dave1360
    Hi Ben, if you fancy a trip to Gloucester, I suspect that Tyre and Battery Centre will be significantly cheaper than Chelters.
  3. Dave1360
    I did the job on my Vitesse a year or so back using the trim and clips both from Canley.  The trim I bought at the time definitely didn't have recesses and the clips could well have been the wider ones that Richard mentions above. I also managed it without the clip tool but with a block of wood to push the clips up instead.  Most of the wounds on my arms have since healed...
  4. Dave1360
    No.  40A will be the maximum output and the car will only take what it needs from it. Think of it in the same way as a 13A mains socket being used to power a little USB charger.  13A is the maximum but the charger will only take far less. If the internal alternator regulator has gone then it may be putting too much voltage across the battery which could cause your issues, but your auto electrical place would probably have checked that before looking at the current.  If the battery voltage is less than 14v when running then the alternator is fine.  I'd go for the 10v regulator/stabiliser on the back of the speedo.
  5. Dave1360
    My Vit 1600 is 1/4" throughout, which ties in with the diagrams on the Canley's website.  These suggest that Heralds and pre-MkII Vitesses were the same and MkII differed.
  6. Dave1360
    Doug - are you saying that you didn't have an odd horse show nail in the back too?!
  7. Dave1360
    You need to remove the bracket that holds the lower end of the boot strut and rotate the tank around the filler, lifting the front as you go.  It's far easier to do it than describe it though!
  8. Dave1360
    I fitted the Baines DX73 ones a couple of weeks ago.  They work a treat, although the passenger footwell is filling up from somewhere else now.  The price of them virtually doubled when they added P&P on though.
  9. Dave1360
    I fitted the Baines DX73 ones a couple of weeks ago.  They work a treat, although the passenger footwell is filling up from somewhere else now.  The price of them virtually doubled when they added P&P on though.
  10. Dave1360
    Definitely a blue Sprint but the others don't ring any bells with me.
  11. Dave1360
    It may well have been a friend of mine who now has a Stag and used to have a Dolly Sprint, although he left Schlumberger about a year or so back.
  12. Dave1360
    Thanks Matt, Dursley is certainly easier for me to get to than Bristol.  Friday morning is good and I can get a floor for Sunday night although I can't remember where off hand.  Can you put me down as a probable definite and I'll get back to you nearer the time to confirm.  Cheers, Dave
  13. Dave1360
    Thanks Richard, I may take you up on that offer.  I'll let you know. Ted - I'm on the south side of the city itself, about 45 minutes from the Wye Dean meets if Google maps is correct.  I've wanted to go along to one of the meets, but it always seems that I've had something else going on the same evening.  One of these days I'll actually turn up though.
  14. Dave1360
    Quick question.  Team 127's car and its owner are in Sussex and I'm in Gloucester.  For some reason he doesn't want to pop over and pick me up on his way to Knebworth.  So if I drive myself to Knebworth, am I able to dump the car there until Monday morning without it getting clamped, towed away or set alight? Failing that, is there anybody driving over from this general direction who could give me a lift?   Of course, if parking is available, I'd be happy to take somebody over if it helps. Thanks, Dave
  15. Dave1360
    Doug, I know nothing about you or your car and you know just about as much about me, I've never done RBRR before, but I'd be happy to join you if you don't get a better offer. Cheers, Dave
  16. Dave1360
    They're definitely 1/2" AF on the Herald and the catalogues suggest the Vitesse is the same.  Seems strange that nothing fits though.
  17. Dave1360
    Thanks for the advice John.  I was already aware of the plunger and made sure that was right when I put it back together.  Unfortunately, today I managed to put the mainshaft in from the front rather than the back and didn't realise until after I'd fitted the circlip on 3rd gear so I've ground to a halt again until I get a new clip ordered. Mal, this box was fitted to the car when I bought it and I did about 8k miles on it until I swapped it out when the 3rd gear circlip broke.  Other than the failed synchro on 2nd due to broken springs, the rest of it seemed fine at that point, so I'm hoping that it'll all be good again when it's finished, but I'm not expecting perfection as I'm well aware that most of the parts are over 45 years old.
  18. Dave1360
    Interesting, Mal.  I'll try to measure them again a little more accurately and aim for the higher side of normal to take the rest of the wear into account, although the rest doesn't look too bad - the rings still have enough clearance to reuse, for example. The rest is starting to go back together, but I've realised that I don't know which way around the snap rings go on the main bearings.  I could have sworn that the manual said when I read it before but now that I need to know, I can't find it described anywhere in there.  I'm guessing it's outside edge closest to the case, but could do with confirmation if anyone knows.
  19. Dave1360
    I may have sorted it.  I used the bathroom scales to check the force.  3/4 was around 28 lb but 1/2 was over 40 lb where both should be around 22.  Anyway, I eventually found four shims under each spring on 1/2 and it's a lot better now they've been taken out.  Once I put a bit of gear oil onto 3/4 that seemed a bit easier too.  Not had a chance to measure them again yet, but I doubt it's far off now.
  20. Dave1360
    Thanks for the ideas.  I'll try to find something to measure the force with over the next few days.  I had a good look down the holes and it didn't look like there were any shims but they didn't look as deep as on 3/4, but I'll give it another go if the force is way out.  I also found a couple of old threads on the forum which may be of use.
  21. Dave1360
    I started to rebuild the old gearbox as its replacement had started to make odd noises.  I fitted new springs to the synchro hub as all three were broken, but I had real trouble getting the hub reassembled due to the spring tension, whereas the 3/4 hub was far easier.  Now it's together, it barely moves either way by hand pressure and is far stiffer than 3/4.  It only moves about 1/4" one way and 1/8" the other way before it locks solid.  Is this normal or has something gone wrong?  It actually needed putting together with a hammer rather than sliding down nicely like the other one. I bought both sets of springs from Canleys, they definitely looked different sizes and I made sure I fitted the right springs to the right hub.  I even tried the other springs in case they'd been swapped, but they seemed even stiffer.  I'd like to know that it's right before putting it in the car.
  22. Dave1360
    Interesting.  I distinctly remember having to unsolder the field winding terminals from the brush plate doo-dah when I took mine apart.  I'm fairly sure the old dead one was the same too. Dave
  23. Dave1360
    I'm very wary of disagreeing with Bill on anything Herald-related, but that's certainly not the case with the Delaney Gallay heater motor.  It will rotate the same direction irrespective of polarity.  Having said that, the Smiths motors may well be reversible as I've seen stickers to that effect on a few MG heaters, but I've not played with a Herald one. Dave
  24. Dave1360
    I gave this a go about five months ago with a W724/1 that was stupidly cheap from Euro Car Parts.  It seemed to take just as long for the light to go out as before when it was left overnight or longer.  The oil was obviously draining out as the level on the dipstick rose.  I assumed it was a faulty valve and replaced the filter with another W724/1, but it's pretty much the same.  Having said all that, the bottom end noise at startup has certainly reduced.  The oil pressure has dropped by 5-10 PSI at idle with this filter, and often sits below 20 after a motorway run, so it's obviously getting on a bit anyway.  I initially blamed it on the cheap Euro Car Parts oil so swapped it to VR-1, but there was no noticeable change. I'll probably swap the current filter for one of a similar size to the GFE150 at the next oil change to see if it improves matters.
  25. Dave1360
    Neither of mine had needle rollers on the layshaft either, and the diagram on Canley's website seems to agree.  The only needle roller bearings that I've seen are between the input shaft and the mainshaft.
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