Biffdiff42

Looking an exhaust manifold (both sides) for TR7 V8, needs to be tubular longer type which reaches the side of the gearbox and not the shorter one which ends beside the block.

Thanks for the advice and I have managed to get the dash and heater out and now have a scary looking jumble of cables left hanging off the bulk head ! I may need to ask a couple more questions when it comes to putting all back together as the 'Assembly is the Reverse of Removal' line is never quite true 🙂

thanks, I will have a go

ok, I have started on the process of removing the dashboard to get the heater out and have a couple of questions :- - I have almost got the instrument cluster out but the speedo cable is still attached and is reluctant to come off after some wiggling and turning. Is there is specific procedure for this please ? - I am also remove the centre fascia which surrounds the heater controls etc and it is still attached at the top - see pic - but I cannot se any more screws to release to get it out. The manual suggest 2 horizontal screws near the top of the unit but I cannot see them or any holes which might have a screw hiding in them As ever, any advice would be very welcome !!

Thanks for the swift advice and I thought this might be the only solution 😞 Is there a guide or images anywhere on the web on how to do this as my last experience was of brittle plastic and bits that did not seem to want to fit when I tried to put it back together?

The heater on my DHC 1980 tr7 works quite well but the two pipes which stick through the bulk head and connect to the flexible pipes have rusted away and I cannot get a water tight connection. I do not want to remove the whole dashboard as this is a nightmare task, so can the heater unit be removed without the whole dash coming out ? or can the pipes be repaired in situ in some way ? Any advice, thoughts or guidance would be much appreciated.

Hi - I have recently rebuilt the rear suspension on my TR7 V8 with new bushes, bump stops and shocks but continue to get a clunking/knocking noise when driving down a road with bumps or pot holes. I have checked the tightness on the various parts but no signs of any loose ones. I have checked the exhaust which is nice and tight. Any suggestions on where to look next would be much appreciated. thanks Jonathan

The metal pipes which poke through the bulk head to take water to and from the heater matrix have rusted away and no longer make a water tight connection with the flexible hoses in the engine bay. Is there a fix to this or does the whole heater matrix and fascia have to come out to replace them and I am presuming the pipes can be removed from the back of the heater, once out of the car, to replace them. It looks like a fiddly job !! Any advice on how to go about solving this problem would be much appreciated.

Many thanks to Jonathan Fallowell who came good with a refurbed tank and the car is now going back together !

thank you very much and that is clear now, and my hood frame now folds better in the back of the car leaving the frame a hood a bit lower when collapsed.

Thanks for the input and the car had a totally new body shell from the factory in the late 1980's and this may have been the cause of the different popper size and I think I need to replace the poppers on the hood cover as they appear to be 'incorrect' and easer to replace than the ones on the body. I am based in Shropshire. When taking the hood down I release the hood from the middle hoop as it is attached by velcro and then fold the hood frame back so the material and window are lying on the boot and the frame is gently pushed down in to the area behind the seat and the roof material is then folded forward over the frame which I think is the correct method but am not entirely sure. Could you explain this step a little more as my hood is not as flush as the one in the picture so this could be one of the issues ? And make sure the middle hoop of the hood is pulled down before you drop the front real behind the seats. thanks Jonathan

Hi - I have a TR7 DHC and have recently purchased a hood cover/bag for it and have found that the cover is too small! Looking across the width of the car it around 1 or 2 inches too small with the hood folded down, but the hood is not flush with the body when folded so does push the cover up a little. I have then checked by measuring the hood cover against a couple of other TR7 hood covers from other cars and it is the same size; and I am reliably informed that my hood cover is an original item. Do the hood covers shrink over time or is there another explanation ?? Also the poppers on the hood cover are slightly too small to fit the ones on the car, so did the popper size change from early to late cars, mine is a 1980 and was re shelled with a new shell later in life. Any views or guidance much appreciated as the hood does not stay down otherwise at speeds over 50 mph and therefore needs the cover. thanks Jonathan

Have tried all the usual TR7 parts stockists including the Wedge Shop in the US, who are very helpful. Do you have any contact details for Jonathan Fallowell please ?

Looking for a TR7 fuel tank which is new or in reasonable condition to help get a car on the road for the summer. None of the main stockists have one currently and on back order ! Happy to collect.

I am now trying to refit the dashboard and the air vent pipe work is proving to be quite a struggle to connect and I have the vents to the windscreen in place but cannot get to the horizontal pipe to reconnect it on the passenger side which connects the air vent in the side of the dash. Is there a sequence or process for getting them back in ? Think I need a well trained octopus to deal with these tasks!