RobPearce

I think earth together with strap.

Could it be Derek Pollock Memorial Ratty?

13

03 March 2024 but no details. I can do this...

I disagree. That is fine.

Yes, but Andrew name driver.

I was driven in my Truimph on Drive Your Truimph Day 2024.

She's worth it.

That's what I got before. 😛

It's the same, I think.

The green ones are hopeless. Mintex will be a significant improvement.

Ordinary E10 unleaded will probably be OK if you have Gates hoses.

As glang said, oil does suffer chemical degradation from being exposed to air and other conditions in the engine. It's quite slow on modern oil, so you don't need to change it more than annually.

My experience of electric oil pressure gauges has not been good, so all of mine have the ones with the pipe (or hose) up to the dash. I've never had a problem with any of them. Just route the pipe carefully and make sure there's a grommet where it passes through the bulkhead.

Yesterday I put Toby's gearbox cover back on and went for a test drive. Putting some oil in the gearbox has, indeed, fixed the overdrive. However, there is a distinct misfire once warmed up. It feels decidedly electrical rather than fuel. I wonder whether the cheap EI unit in the distributor I fitted just before the last RBRR is now failing.

Oh noes! I'll be away and may not have Internet access!

There used to be a competent place in Abingdon, back when my brother lived there and had his Spitfire, but that was thirty years ago, so not very helpful. Sorry.

If the sills are bad, they may not be holding the body straight, so get the door gaps right before you start. If you have a hard top, fit it - that will ensure the rear deck to windscreen dimension is right while you brace everything up. This is a very important point! The ONLY way to know whether you've got the sills positioned right (and, in most cases, modified correctly from the not-quite-right pressing) is to fit the doors and see how the shut lines look.

Replacing the sills is not a difficult job for someone who knows what they're doing, but there are plenty of gotchas waiting for the uninitiated. Also, if the sills are rotten, have a close look at everything around them - floors in particular - for other bits that need replacing.

I struggle to see why you should need 15" wheels for a Stag brake conversion, when the Stag itself only had 14" (and thick alloys at that). Sure, it may not fit with the 2000's standard 13" wheels but the 2500S alloys are what Mk2 Stag's got fitted with.

The steed is not my problem at the moment - I need to replace my co-driver. 😒

I think I have one in a drawer somewhere.

I don't think you've said whether you tested with the sender completely disconnected? In that condition, the gauge should read empty (should not move from its ignition off position). If it reads full without a sender then it's not the sender that's faulty! There is also, of course, the classic mistake of swapping the wires at the sender end. One is a ground, the other is the gauge feed, but the ground terminal on the sender is connected to the sender body and thus to the tank and ground, so swapping the wires gives a dead short and permanent "full" reading.

Just a note for completeness (as a potential buyer might be interested), while the DH prefix means it originally came out of a Dolomite, the sump has been swapped to suit a Herald or Spitfire. Folks on here can probably spot that but it would be worth mentioning if you have to resort to the book of farce or the bay of E.

I've encountered almost exactly this query on either this or the TSSC forum, not that long ago. It's different to the indicator question we talked about at the meeting. There is no intentional "deviousness" in the stop/tail light circuits. The intention is that the bulb is always earthed and the circuits are thus independent. If you have an earth fault (which is very common with those light units) on one side only, the tail lights will still appear to work (if a bit dim) if they are filament ones, because the current can flow through the brake light filament of that bulb to the brake light filament of the other side and thus to earth. However, the faulty side will just "go out" when the brakes are applied. This won't work for LEDs but is, in any case, a fault condition. Unfortunately I don't remember the conclusion of the previous discussion of LED stop/tail lights but I have a suspicion we concluded the "bulbs" were duff, possibly by design. Try this: on a bench, with a battery, connect the bulb barrel to negative. Take a wire from positive to each contact in turn. One should light it dimly, the other should light it bright. Then connect the positive wire to both contacts together. It should light brightly. Any deviation from that behaviour is a duff LED bulb.