heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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They were fitted at the factory pretty much throughout Herald production, but only to occasional cars. They were supposedly substituted where vibrations couldn't be eliminated with the regular solid (or later, strap) propshaft. I've had about 2-3 cars with them out of roughly 100 Heralds I've owned, Cheers, Bill.
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At a guess I'd say these would have been repros. I think I remember one of them being acquired as part of an abandoned project, not so sure about the other. As a sanity check, if you measure the height of the swage line above the centre of the wheelarch, an original Stanpart wing will measure 41mm. Repros are usually larger at about 46mm, Cheers, Bill.
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That must have been a while ago, it's a long time since I've sold any rear wings... Are these Stanpart originals, or repros? Cheers, Bill.
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And these are the 'good' ones. There is another manufacturer which makes some really poor lookalikes, the ones with the weak stud mounting are technically an OE product... Cheers, Bill.
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When you serviced the master cylinder, did you replace the main spring? Reason I ask is that I've had work hardened springs cause exactly this fault, gradually pressurising the brakes with each application of the pedal. The first time I found this the spring appeared to be physically perfect, however approximately one third of it's length had become work hardened; this section would not compress. It was the last thing I changed... Cheers, Bill.
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You're right, there are a couple of different types. They're theoretically designed for the same job, however one manufacturer makes a product with a much softer spine so it complies more readily - this is ideal for fitting in the existing runners at front and rear. Afraid I couldn't tell you who stocks this type, I always bought it from a direct trade supplier. If possible, try and buy it over the counter or at shows where you can get a feel fro whether it will conform, Cheers, Bill.
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This appears to match the type I used to supply http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1024-rigid-single-track-window-channel.aspx
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What's supplied by many traders is a flexible flocked rubber, however the original fitting was a rigid channel as shown in the earlier image, ie the same stuff goes in the back and front channels. I sued to sell this, it should still be readily available from people like Woolies even if Triumph specialists don't carry it, Cheers, Bill.
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Which in turn is caused by a broken or missing pedal return spring, so the master spring has to do all the work, Cheers, Bill
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I actually prefer the County/XRN slave over the original in this application. Gone is the silly metal cap with a proper gaiter instead. I'm not sure who's making the slave cylinders currently branded as B&B, but I'd have no qualms about the County parts (in this instance) Cheers, Bill.
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Courier Vans have no ARB, in conjunction with the stiffer rear spring they handle incredibly well. I'm currently building my 1300 engined Saloon to similar spec, I'll let you know how it goes... Cheers, Bill.
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Clear rubble sacks from DIY shops are a perfect match for thickness and flexibility, Cheers, Bill.
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Clear rubble sacks from DIY shops are a perfect match for thickness and flexibility, Cheers, Bill.
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If your hinge has a countersink for the front mounting, you will need to use a matching 5/16" contersunk screw at this point. Cheers, Bill.
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If your hinge has a countersink for the front mounting, you will need to use a matching 5/16" contersunk screw at this point. Cheers, Bill.
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Depends on the gearbox you're using. If it's a 3-rail, ie Spitfire Mk1-IV type, then use the plate from that model. If it's a single rail gearbox, ie Spitfire 1500 type, then use the plate from thet model. The mounting plate would in fact be quite easy to fabricate. It's a flat piece of steel with folded ends for stiffening. The footprint naturally matches the non-overdrive type so could be marked out using that as a pattern, Cheer,s Bill.
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The Spitfire's overdrive mounting plate is a straight fit. The standard-non-overdrive plate is bulged upwards and will raise the back end of the gearbox higher than it ought to be, Cheers, Bill.
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That's pretty much the way it goes. I'm still happy to supply the stuff no-one else wants to sell (such as decent door seals) but it's pretty much by word of mouth. The job I'm now doing means I'm not able to ship packages every day, and emails can take a bit longer to deal with than I'd like. But the seals remain available, Cheers, Bill.
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I've just caught up with this thread, looks like a nice early car. A couple of points I can chip in with: Drums remained a standard feature on 1200s until the end of production in 1970, they became available as an option in April 1961. As for the bonnet handle, despite what the parts lists say, they were fitted until at least the GA19xxx range - there are a few anomalies like this in the factory references. It's correct for yours either way, but they carried on longer than people realise. The valance is without doubt a later replacement. The open slot visible above the numberplate was introduced with the Mk2 chassis in June 1962, but there was a further change around 1966/7 when the corner bulges became less pronounced with a new panel pressing. From what's visible, I'm pretty certian your valance has the flatter corners, so I would say it was replaced some time after 1966. Though the car is quite early for a 1200, it's surprising how many truly early features had already disappeared by the time this one was produced. Earlier 1200s had different tail-light chrome surrounds, larger sidelights and (though not visible in the pictures) different rear interior trim in the rear quarters, the latter related to substantial panel differences in the bodyshell. The last point is incredibly rare, I have only ever seen two Heralds built this way, and both totally rotten to beyond saving... Cheers, Bill.
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Given the poor quality of many reconditioned racks, I rebuild my own. While Canley may not do the specific rack, they have historically carried the parts to rebuild them. There is a caveat though; until early 1960, there was an entirely different rack design, identifiable by both ends having matching (small) gaiters. I don't know how much internally is common between these and the later Mk1 design, Cheers, Bill.
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If you go for the Newton set, get all parts out of the box and check them thoroughly before doing any trimming. When properly made they are an excellent fit, but I have worked with two sets where the carpet had been poorly centred in the mould. Result was an excess at one edge, while cut short on the opposite side. Trimming small sections to fit and making the seams disappear was never my idea of fun, I felt that for the asking price, quality control left much to be desired, Cheers, Bill.
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I was in the same spot in Hall 1 as I've been for the last couple of years, albeit without the company banner this time. Cheers, Bill.
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I was in the same spot in Hall 1 as I've been for the last couple of years, albeit without the company banner this time. Cheers, Bill.
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I'm not aware of any of these offering the correct door seal profile, someone correct me if this has changed. Cheers, Bill.
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I'm not aware of any of these offering the correct door seal profile, someone correct me if this has changed. Cheers, Bill.
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