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Simoneg

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  1. Simoneg

    Cylinder heads

    Many thanks, Rob.  I had noticed that plug hole and wondered what it was for.  By the by, I shall be moving to Cambridge next summer so hope to catch up with your local group then.   Simon  
  2. Simoneg

    Cylinder heads

    Turning out the dark recesses of my garage I've found four cylinder heads which will shortly be up for sale or scrap.  I'm pretty sure that 3 of them came from Herald 1360 or 1300 Spitfire engines but one of them probably came from a 1500 Dolomite.  Apart from casting labels/numbers on top I can't see any differences between them.  Two are labelled Stanpart 307871, one is also labelled 307871 but with the (manufacturer's?) symbol 'N' and K40, and the other has several marks CBS RK00589, 18DO and a stamping TKC1155 SS27/73.  Can anyone identify these?  Do 1500 cylinder heads differ from those fitted to 1300 engines?  The manifolds seem to be interchangeable.  If anyone needs one of these cylinder heads then please let me know!  Simon      
  3. I see that I've inadvertently posted this in the 1200 section - sorry!    Simon  
  4. I have two pairs of 1360 front overriders both in reasonable shape (they are handed on this model).  I am about to put these Ebay where people seem to be asking some silly prices.  Happy to sell for £20 starting bid per pair + p&p.  I will also be posting a couple of rear overriders that need work.  Simon Email: meadgreen@gmail.com  
  5. The new unbranded pump is a complete disaster - fuel now seeping out of the top cover despite tightening it down.  So I've ordered a refurb kit for my original AC pump.  However, the inlet and outlet valves appear to be held in by peening or punching (not sure correct terminology) the casing around the recesses.  Does anyone know how to go about replacing these?  Presumably it's possible to lever the old ones out, push the new ones in and then carefully use a nail punch or similar to burr over the edges of the recesses so as to hold them in?       
  6. Thanks for the tip about high pressure in new pumps.  Unfortunately I stripped the thread to the casing of one of the screws securing the diaphragm cover on the old pump so couldn't stop it leaking.  However, now it is off the car I see that these screws only extend part way down the casing so I might be able to fix it using longer screws if I can find some with the same thread.    
  7. I’ve just set about reviving my long-dormant Herald by fitting a new mechanical fuel pump to its 1500 ex-Dolomite engine which is fitted with the original twin SU carbs.  All seemed to be well on starting up but after a couple of minutes the rear carb started to flood badly with petrol trickling out of the vent tube.  Both carbs had been fitted with new Viton (synthetic rubber)-tipped SU float valves not long ago and had run perfectly well with the old fuel pump.  I tried replacing the rear float valve with a new Viton-tipped one and got the same result, but when I substituted it with one of the original brass-tipped float valves the rear carb stopped leaking but the front carb started flooding instead.  Replacing both of the new Viton-tipped valves with the original brass ones seems to have cured the problem.  From this I conclude that the new pump may be delivering fuel at a higher pressure than the old one and the Viton-tipped valves can’t cope with this.  Has anyone had a similar experience?  Seems that Viton-tipped valves are the only type available now.  I’ve checked the float heights and these seem to be correct and about the same with both types of valve. The new pump is an unbranded Herald type with slight modifications to the position of the inlet and outlet fuel line connections.  It replaced an AC pump taken from a Herald 1360 (believed OE) which I fitted when the original Dolomite pump packed up several years ago.  Both Herald pumps have operating levers with a similar profile to the Dolomite pump but have the advantage of a manual priming lever which helps to fill the carbs and reduce cranking after long periods of inactivity.  I would not have expected the new Herald-type pump to deliver fuel at a higher pressure than the old one.  Any ideas? 
  8. I modified the twin carb linkage slightly on my 1500-engined 1360 to so it accepts an original 1360 cable used for the single Stromberg carb.  Has been working fine for the past 3 years.  See my post of 2 July 2012 at Sorry , link no longer available.   Simon
  9. I modified the twin carb linkage slightly on my 1500-engined 1360 to so it accepts an original 1360 cable used for the single Stromberg carb.  Has been working fine for the past 3 years.  See my post of 2 July 2012 at Sorry , link no longer available.   Simon
  10. Not sure about Spitfire carbs but my mods for essentially similar 1500 Dolly twin SUs in a Herald might be useful - see msg 2 July 2012 at Sorry , link no longer available.   As I recall, the standard Herald 1360 accelerator and choke cables fitted this set up fine.  Even used the Dolly choke warning light switch, mounted on the cable knob assembly behind the dash (although it soon went out of adjustment).     Simon
  11. Simoneg

    Door glass channels

    Yes, extend your nose with a bit of metal tubing (old brake pipe?) and stick the rivets into the channel tail first.  The heads should bed into the furry inside of the channel.  May need a bit of metalwork to make new brackets to fix bottoms of the channels to the door frame as the originals often rust away.   Simon
  12. Simoneg

    Door glass channels

    Yes, extend your nose with a bit of metal tubing (old brake pipe?) and stick the rivets into the channel tail first.  The heads should bed into the furry inside of the channel.  May need a bit of metalwork to make new brackets to fix bottoms of the channels to the door frame as the originals often rust away.   Simon
  13. Derek, I use an original Herald 1360 (i.e. single Stromberg) cable with the ex-1500 Dolomite engine and twin SUs in my Herald.  Linkage is modified as hopefully shown in the attached photos (which I think I posted on the forum a few years ago).  In this case the inner cable stays fixed whilst the outer cable operates the throttle lever.  I also retained the old 1360 exhaust manifold so I could use a 1360 stainless steel exhaust system that I already had, and this works fine but may be a bit restrictive for the larger engine.  Echo Clive's comments about the desirability of overdrive and/or lower ratio diff.  I still have the 4.11 diff on mine which gives great acceleration but overgears the car, even with overdrive in.  I got a 3.89 4-stud diff some time ago and am still wondering if I can swap it as-it-is for the existing 6-stud diff, or whether I first need to extract the guts and repackage it into a 6-stud casing.  You might find a full-width radiator advisable to help with cooling the larger engine.  I've never used anything else, but did experience problems with a narrower rad in our other 1360, which were completely cured by fitting a full width rad.  Email me if you need any further details of the accelerator linkage.  The linkage you have may of course differ from that fitted to Dolomites. Best wishes, Simon
  14. As others have suggested in previous posts to this forum, possible causes include: 1) Replacement clutch plate slightly thicker, or pressure plate slightly thinner, than original equipment 2) Clutch slave cylinder not sitting far enough into the bell housing (some after-market replacements have the locating groove in the wrong place - it is not uncommon to have to file/grind the groove a bit to make is sit further into the bell housing). 3) clutch pivot pin worn 4) clutch pivot pin fallen out and replaced with a loosely fitting bolt! 5) clutch hydraulics need bleeding and/or renovating. Definitely worth checking the pivot pin is in place and has not become loose, perhaps because of wear in the bushes or loss of the infamous crinkly tube that is supposed to hold it in place.  Easily done without taking the gearbox out. Simon   
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