Pete Lewis

I would also check the inhibitor switch , when its playing up hold the gear stick to the left and to the right if that has some effect it shows its the inhibitor needs a little adjustment is this on a 2500 so is it J type or A type OD ???? On J type it can be the solenoid internals need a good clean out , remove the sol remove smal circlip shake out the internal plunger/spool valve and clean it all this can give the OD a mind of its own the easy one is worn out wiring to the gear stick switch Pete cant advise on A Types Pete

know one has mentioned the chance of making those nasty rubber slivers these are small slices of hose thet can get cut off by inserting metal pipes and they float about in the lines and will eventually block the back of the float needle valves its worth being aware with all the messing about with the pipe run will get these crafty little sods to breed and give you a surprised misfire when you dont want it it happens a lot , less with high quality hose but they are out there waiting to get you annoyed Pete

i would also make sure the temperature compensators are screwed fully shut as with age they become a permanent throttle air bypass and idle mixtures cannot be set properly just screw the small nut to close the plunger ..for good and seal the two body 0 rings . an other way is turn the middle gasket upside down so it blocks the air bypass for good . on a biased needle the small delrin washer on the head of the needle should be level with the base of the air piston to be about right . Pete

there been a rumbling this is cancelled far from it there will now be tea coffee and cateriing snack and tssc shop available the wearther is improving and 23c is forecast with no rain Pete

cant load this in events but we are on course for a good day out with full museum access the gates for classic car enrty open at9am and close at 12oclock dont be late the site is open till 6pm without knowing how to control covid rules we will not be doing our usual refreshments or raffle this may change as time moves on but thats why its now a PICNIC so bring your own food please no pre booking but its cash at the gate on the day £16 each adult Peter

double check the diaphragm is not failed , or one made of thick rubber it should be a thin gossamer  flimsy . make sure the location lugs are locating so the two holes in the  base of the air piston  looking down are engine side not offset  as you have had the carb on off check behind the float needle for the rubber slivers Rob mentions  these are formed when you push hose onto metal pipes and are crafty little sods  at blocking the back of the float needle  Pete

if you get one that will lift on the chassis then its only good to take the wheels off you cant do much underneath as the lift baulks any access  its a must have bit of kit that  you dont really need it does very little to help you . i know of a good few that just gather oil drips and dust  Pete  

one thing that can affect piston drop is aftermarket diaphragms made of thick stif rubber  they should be thin gossamer , not recycled elephant condoms . the needles will be biased (sprung) so they wont /cant be  centralised  do have a look if on the side you the small platsic covers temperature compensators only 2 screws to remove them  but they need to be adjusted so at normal temperature the small valve is fully shut , this add a bypass air past the throttles to weaken hot mixtures ,  if this little sod is open when it should be closed you will never set the idle mixture  adjust the small nut to shut the ruddy thing for good, its a emmission aid thats a pain  the housing has 2  0 rings to seal it to the body  these disintegrate and leak air  one simple dodge is turn the carb to manifold gasket upside down and you effectively delete the TC operation and any unscheduled idle air bypassing . set the needles with the small delrin washer just level with the base of the air piston  thats the factory set , if its proud or recesses somethings wrong  Pete

  there are dimensional chassis drawings in the workshop manuals  the body comes off in two parts  the separation is the  bolted seam under the seats  two people can lift the bulkhead  or the rear quite easily  no need to support door apertures as when separated there is no structure needing support  apart from rotten bits hanging off . dont forget to disconnect any seat belts and the handbrake cables  dont forget the two mounts in the boot diff mount x member  you need disconnect  or break/split  the  tail harness  places like the A post base and body mounts will be shot , new floor pans do not have a full  pressed finish so the A post and sill needs a lot of  forming its not a straight swap panel  Pete

if it has a failed angle drive they MUST have a 7/16dia washer to act as a spacer between the gearbox drive and the angle drive or you pre load the bevel gears and it fails  theres a tech note about this and if you look on rimmer they invalidate any warranty if no washer is fitted  Pete

 Dave  I  recommend  Mintex  Ceratec paste far better than copaslip its   available in tubes  many places sell shim kits incl  TSSC shop if you need some  Pete  

you may need the forward radiator mounting brackets , depends what vintage the herald chassis from memory the 13/60 is same the 1200 is not  Pete

im not sure this is crank related , so it rumbles when torque is asked for   ???  have you really carefully eliminated exhaust contact under load or even failed clutch disc damper springs  or any other out the box idea , if you keep rebuilding the engine but the problem returns  you could be chasing the wrong culprit  Pete

on my mk2 i installed stag spreader bars , they are the same but have +15mm on the cable arm makes a wonderful improvement to the handbrake and being so much cheaper than 2000 ones its a easy uplift .if you need new ones  Pete

do take care   that bolts fitted to the front bearing sealing block do not bottom out its alloy and will strip easily im sure you will find some bolts are longer where they go through a reinforced flange and shorter in single skin  the front block is a well known Oops  !!!    for failing/leaking  if this happens you can tap 8mm metric , or drill  and tap 3/8unf  or buy a steel block from most suppliers to recover a striped block   Pete