Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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I would also check the inhibitor switch , when its playing up hold the gear stick to the left and to the right if that has some effect it shows its the inhibitor needs a little adjustment is this on a 2500 so is it J type or A type OD ???? On J type it can be the solenoid internals need a good clean out , remove the sol remove smal circlip shake out the internal plunger/spool valve and clean it all this can give the OD a mind of its own the easy one is worn out wiring to the gear stick switch Pete cant advise on A Types Pete
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know one has mentioned the chance of making those nasty rubber slivers these are small slices of hose thet can get cut off by inserting metal pipes and they float about in the lines and will eventually block the back of the float needle valves its worth being aware with all the messing about with the pipe run will get these crafty little sods to breed and give you a surprised misfire when you dont want it it happens a lot , less with high quality hose but they are out there waiting to get you annoyed Pete
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i would also make sure the temperature compensators are screwed fully shut as with age they become a permanent throttle air bypass and idle mixtures cannot be set properly just screw the small nut to close the plunger ..for good and seal the two body 0 rings . an other way is turn the middle gasket upside down so it blocks the air bypass for good . on a biased needle the small delrin washer on the head of the needle should be level with the base of the air piston to be about right . Pete
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there been a rumbling this is cancelled far from it there will now be tea coffee and cateriing snack and tssc shop available the wearther is improving and 23c is forecast with no rain Pete
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cant load this in events but we are on course for a good day out with full museum access the gates for classic car enrty open at9am and close at 12oclock dont be late the site is open till 6pm without knowing how to control covid rules we will not be doing our usual refreshments or raffle this may change as time moves on but thats why its now a PICNIC so bring your own food please no pre booking but its cash at the gate on the day £16 each adult Peter
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13/60 - Engine Not Running Properly After Head Gasket Replacement
Pete Lewis replied to cbjroms's topic in Engine
double check the diaphragm is not failed , or one made of thick rubber it should be a thin gossamer flimsy . make sure the location lugs are locating so the two holes in the base of the air piston looking down are engine side not offset as you have had the carb on off check behind the float needle for the rubber slivers Rob mentions these are formed when you push hose onto metal pipes and are crafty little sods at blocking the back of the float needle Pete -
if you get one that will lift on the chassis then its only good to take the wheels off you cant do much underneath as the lift baulks any access its a must have bit of kit that you dont really need it does very little to help you . i know of a good few that just gather oil drips and dust Pete
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one thing that can affect piston drop is aftermarket diaphragms made of thick stif rubber they should be thin gossamer , not recycled elephant condoms . the needles will be biased (sprung) so they wont /cant be centralised do have a look if on the side you the small platsic covers temperature compensators only 2 screws to remove them but they need to be adjusted so at normal temperature the small valve is fully shut , this add a bypass air past the throttles to weaken hot mixtures , if this little sod is open when it should be closed you will never set the idle mixture adjust the small nut to shut the ruddy thing for good, its a emmission aid thats a pain the housing has 2 0 rings to seal it to the body these disintegrate and leak air one simple dodge is turn the carb to manifold gasket upside down and you effectively delete the TC operation and any unscheduled idle air bypassing . set the needles with the small delrin washer just level with the base of the air piston thats the factory set , if its proud or recesses somethings wrong Pete
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there are dimensional chassis drawings in the workshop manuals the body comes off in two parts the separation is the bolted seam under the seats two people can lift the bulkhead or the rear quite easily no need to support door apertures as when separated there is no structure needing support apart from rotten bits hanging off . dont forget to disconnect any seat belts and the handbrake cables dont forget the two mounts in the boot diff mount x member you need disconnect or break/split the tail harness places like the A post base and body mounts will be shot , new floor pans do not have a full pressed finish so the A post and sill needs a lot of forming its not a straight swap panel Pete
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if it has a failed angle drive they MUST have a 7/16dia washer to act as a spacer between the gearbox drive and the angle drive or you pre load the bevel gears and it fails theres a tech note about this and if you look on rimmer they invalidate any warranty if no washer is fitted Pete
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Dave I recommend Mintex Ceratec paste far better than copaslip its available in tubes many places sell shim kits incl TSSC shop if you need some Pete
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you may need the forward radiator mounting brackets , depends what vintage the herald chassis from memory the 13/60 is same the 1200 is not Pete
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im not sure this is crank related , so it rumbles when torque is asked for ??? have you really carefully eliminated exhaust contact under load or even failed clutch disc damper springs or any other out the box idea , if you keep rebuilding the engine but the problem returns you could be chasing the wrong culprit Pete
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on my mk2 i installed stag spreader bars , they are the same but have +15mm on the cable arm makes a wonderful improvement to the handbrake and being so much cheaper than 2000 ones its a easy uplift .if you need new ones Pete
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do take care that bolts fitted to the front bearing sealing block do not bottom out its alloy and will strip easily im sure you will find some bolts are longer where they go through a reinforced flange and shorter in single skin the front block is a well known Oops !!! for failing/leaking if this happens you can tap 8mm metric , or drill and tap 3/8unf or buy a steel block from most suppliers to recover a striped block Pete
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plus have to run it with the viscous fan removed ??? Pete
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you could try a alternative spring or fit the 1600 heavy damper diaphragm ring pete
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if the filter was aplastic type had the hose clip crushed the pipe to a big restriction thats another common fault along with rubber slivers the more you take a part you make more of the little sods pete
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never dispel the ideas of the dreaded rubber slivers nasty little sods get cut off the hose bore when inserting metal pipes , they randomly float about and block the back of the float needle valves can drive you mad need to remove the valve and check behing where they hide and also pump a little fuel into a jar see if you catch some also check the hose to the top fuel tank outlet , good place to suck air but not show a leak due to no head of fuel present when parked up. Pete
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did you do this hot or cold? were throttle held open ?? all plugs out ?? all makes a difference Pete
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do check the the fuel cap is venting the coil feed is correct polarity ( this is an old nutshell of it runs stops you get out faf around give it a kick and it restarts till next time .) Pete
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and not mentioned but you will find on most triumph ratios that 3rd OD is the same as direct 4th its not the best use of ratios you cant use it as a split shift you only get 5 not 6 Pete
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track rods are threaded 1/2"unf for all small chassis models
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with ref to the float needle valves I have Hs4 on the 2000 and flooding for ever despite tipped un tipped etc on magnifying the float the all plastic needle platform had a series or fine ridges worn in the top of the float , these would tip/jam the valve from seating , a new set of floats problem solved which ever needle type was fitted , and filing the platform dosnt work ,, lousy, stuff makes more ruts anoying when it all looks ok till you get real close never mind the dreaded floating rubber slivers that get shaved off inside the lines every time you fit a hose to a metal pipe and block the float valves Pete
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as they fit in 14" wheels i used Stag calipers and discs as half the price of 2000/2500 units and stag rear shoe expanders on std shoes as they are same parts except the handbrake lever is 15mm longer and gives a really good handbrake Pete