James1500
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The quality of new mounting rubbers are terrible and will look like that within a month or two! They usually sag and wedge the engine further down when they start to let go
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You'll need to give it a whack to shock it loose preferably with a copper mallet while it's under tension
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I would have thought the process was similar to early cars, remove 2 UJ bolts and clamp at lower column and pull wheel/shaft to give enough clearance to swap the joint. Did mine this week and wow what a difference!
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Canleys stock the blocks and the extended studs and would post?
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I'd repair the tapped plates first by welding nuts to the rear of them and then perhaps elongate the holes in the bulkhead to allow for a little movement, if the hinge pins are worn I'd replace them also as you'll make setting the gaps complicated
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I'd repair the tapped plates first by welding nuts to the rear of them and then perhaps elongate the holes in the bulkhead to allow for a little movement, if the hinge pins are worn I'd replace them also as you'll make setting the gaps complicated
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I'd fit relays to be safe, your colum switch will last longer ;)
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I used the adjustable top wishbone conversion to solve the fouling on mine and save using wheel spacers
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With the car in third or fourth with ignition on you should be able to hear the solenoid click when you switch the overdrive on, if not then power isnt getting to the solenoid or the solenoid is faulty, you could try putting a 12v feed straight on the solenoid providing its earthed to rule out the solenoid itself.
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I'd be tempted to attach the skin to the frame loosely and do the final adjustments on the car, that's the only way you can be sure of final fit
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Ive had a nut undo itself and subsequently the whole lot came off leaving me on three wheels, not a fantastic experience so I'd suggest a new shaft!
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took me ages to get mine fitting half decent too, you get what you pay for with GRP stuff as long as you know what to expect
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On a spit they can be removed though and refitted its just a bit awkward
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I used a new chassis plate but I had to file it down in order for a nice fit between the chassis rails, make sure the inhibitor switch and mechanism works correctly before you use it to reduce the risk of killing the O/D unit
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agree with above, if you can get new plates weld nuts on the back of those, that way you're keeping the same thread/bolt size but adding thread so the chance of them stripping again is greatly reduced