piman

Hello Roger,   it may be a 'standard' modification but it is uneccessary and from an engineering viewpoint ineffective. The tapered bolt needs to be fitted properly and should seat in  the cross arm. If that is not done correctly, an additional parallel pin will not be effective. The whole reason the pin,as designed, is tapered is to completely eliminate any relative movement, this is impossible with  a parallel pin. Do the job properly and there will be no problems. I have had  an instance of tapered pin bottoming on the head, this will not work and I had to relieve the head such that the pin sat correctly in the tapered bore.   Alec

Hello Simon, I had a quote from Pilkintons,   £572 clear heated plus vat\carriage.   Alec  

Hello Ben,   this is an interesting subject and one that would need some special test equipment to see if there is some voltage induced in adjacent leads (Which there must be, but it is the amount and effect that is unknown). As the 'slave' lead (for lack of a better description) cannot fire due to it being out of time there won't be any obvious effects. It could  be loading the main lead such that it is robbed of some power possibly? If you have some extra or old leads so that you can route the cables so they are not close (i.e. use long leads where short ones are) you can do a practical test. Where leads cross at 90 degrees does not matter, it's only on a parallel section will you get induced voltage. For what it's worth Smokey Yunick, in America (Look him up if you don't know the name) did some trials on this and made sure there was a relatively large distance between ignition leads on his stock cars.   Alec  

Hello Simon,   I wasn't aware that Pilkingtons would do a one off screen? Is there much of a premium on that?

Hello Tim,   I have tried to contact Ted (I bought one of the original batch he had made) but can't seem to PM on here, I have sent a message on the 2000 register forum but no response to date.

Hello all,   as the title says, has anyone one for sale or suggest a likely source?   Many thanks,   Alec

Hello Ted, I don't believe that any manufacturer would actually use a contact as a resting place for the moving contact, certainly all the industrial relays I've seen do not have them. It all adds extra cost for no purpose? Alec

Hello Darren, for that period look slip a piece of suitabl bore rubber or plastic tubing over the switch toggle, trim to length to extend it closer to hand. Alec

Hello John, are those Lucas relay diagrams? It seems odd that they are all shown as changeover relays but without the terminal to the normally closed contacts? Alec

Hello Jonny, the extent of the bend is the important thing, if the starter motor face is flat on the inside then I suggets it is not a problem, i.e. the bend is only outboard of the starter axis? The fact that the gap did not close up when tightening the starter motor bolts is a good sign. It may be possible to rectify, if it is only a limited length of bend, in situ with a hydraulic bottle jack and some wood packing? Alec

Hello Pete, just having second thoughts. it's along time since i have done this job and my memory may be playing tricks? Does the taper part of the pin contact the base of the fork, or does it not actually pass through the cross shaft? If the latter then forget what I said as it's wrong? Alec

Hello Pete. to lap it in needs a dummy pin withoout the threads as other wise you just can't rotate it properly. Alec

Hello pete, to get a good fit requires the taper in the shaft and the fork to be reamed together. Somewhere in the past I seemed to remember Chris Witor selling the right tool?  It's also essential to ensure the taper bolt's thread does not bottom on the fork, which could happen if the reaming is too enthusiastic. Alec

Hello Esxefi, I have seen other people saying they drill an extra hole and use a nut and bolt. However it can never be as good as a properly fitted taper bolt. If you ream a hole in the shaft and the fork and use an accurate machined bolt it is not as rigid. There will always be a slight movement which you should not have with the original taper bolt. I acknowedge that your modification worked but it is not sound engineering. Alec

Hello Iggy, the reference number is or should be on a stamped metal tag attached to the float chamber. Alec