Llessur

Thanks John, very helpful!

Hi again all, it's been a while 🙂 I'm slowly creeping towards the end of a full rebuild of my 2500 engine. The block has been re-bored, with new pistons at +20 thou, new bearing shells at all +10 thou, new rings, lifters, timing gear etc, etc. The original camshaft has been reground to something close to stock 307621 profile. Everything else about the engine and head is standard. When it's finally ready to go, what's the best running in procedure? The camshaft came with instructions to run in at 2000RPM for 20 minutes, but is this also acceptable to bed in the new rings etc? I always thought it wasn't good for new rings to be run for a long period at a steady RPM.

I've got a feeling I've asked this question before but I can't seem to find the thread now so I'll ask it again... I'm (still) in the process of rebuilding the engine from my 2500S and things are finally starting to take shape. My camshaft showed some light pitting to a couple of the lobes so I've sent it off to a reputable place in Victoria (Clive Cams) for inspection and hopefully a re-grind. The cam is a stock 307621 and the head is part number 219021 which is identical (except for the EGR port being drilled for the Australian market - not that I've got one fitted) to the 219016 head. The block is number MM44232HEA. Pistons are +20 thou, bearing shells are all +10 thou. Everything else about the engine and head is standard. Both have had a very light skim to their mating surfaces, the recesses for the head gasket rings on the block are still well within spec. I'll be running rebuilt twin HS6s. Providing my camshaft is assessed as good for a regrind, should I stick with the 307621 profile would it be worth getting it re-profiled to 308778 specs? Am I more likely to breach the hardening if I go with a new profile as opposed to keeping original? I can get a 308778 ground from a new billet but this is around 4x the price of a re-grind. All thoughts welcome 👍

Ah, good to see a proper forum again. Good work all!

If you want to change an existing non-OD car to OD then you'd be better off sourcing a complete OD box as it's easier than adding an OD unit to an existing box. Then you'll need the longer gearbox cross-member mounts, correct gearstick with OD switch (or you could wire a switch elsewhere), relay (required for the A-type OD, not strictly necessary with the J-type but it doesn't hurt to fit one anyway) and wiring harness (or make your own). Plus, you might want to do the clutch whilst you're in there so you'd need a clutch kit, release bearing, slipper pads, spigot bearing, reinforced fork pin, new clevis pin for the clutch slave cylinder piston and preferably new bushes for the clutch cross shaft . You'll most likely need a new gearbox mount and you might as well polybush the gearbox cross member whilst it's off. Save yourself some headaches and get the good stuff from Chris Witor (btw who also recommends a 7/8" clutch slave cylinder is used with all aftermarket clutch kits due to its longer travel over the 1" cylinder). It's a good project if you're planning on doing it yourself. I got half way through writing mine up but my plans changed before I could finish the job and fit the new box. The link's here: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/2018/04/ - as the Haynes guys say, refitting is the reverse of removal.

I remember this night fondly.

This AND the engine bracket? There's no stopping you now - your productivity is through the roof. Very shiny though.

Yeah, I came to that conclusion (splined end to rear) in the end after looking at a fair few pics on the web. It's in now so hopefully I won't have to swap it round again!

Beautiful job so far by the way. Just a thought - looks like you have reinstalled the propshaft the opposite way round to which it was removed (comparing the first and last pictures of this thread). I'm just about to put mine back in - what way round should it actually be? My gut instinct is the recessed end towards the gearbox (i.e. your pre-restoration picture) but am finding it hard to determine this from any documentation I can find...