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Jazzman

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  1. After a week off, I spent some time with the car again. Following your comments, I checked again the dizzy is not 180 off: I took it out again, then turned the engine to the timing mark and made sure the drive gear was at the right position (roughly horizontal), as per the workshop manual. Put the dizzy back in, with the rotor pointing to the #1 lead cable i.e.: horizontal and pointing to the left. To double check, I put a compressor tester, without the gauge, in the #1 spark plug hole and checked that it blows out when I crank the engine and the rotor is pointing to the #1 lead cable. I am starting to think that I mess the whole process when I static time the engine… I put a mark in the dizzy body with the #1 lead cable position, and I realized that when I static-time the engine the rotor points pass that point, therefore I suspect the spark misses the lead clable rotor cap connection… Could that be the problem? In case it helps, when I crank the engine I hear "puff puff" from the carburettor  
  2. I don't have a capacitor since I changed the points with electronic ignition long ago... I will check the spark as you say and revert. Cheers
  3. I worked on the car a little bit last night. So far no success… I did the following checks: I have spark in all four cylinders (I checked with a small device that attaches between spark plug and lead and lights up when it sparks), therefore the dizzy cap, rotor, electronic ignition module and coil work. The spark plugs were full of gas, due to the continuous cranking, but in good order and correct gap (no reason to suspect they’re faulty…) I tried to crank the car and move the dizzy CCW and CW with no result I even advanced the ignition to the point it backfired with a big explosion A bit frustrated I checked for a sticky needle in the carb and the flow of gas to the carbs. All in order… The findings and conclusions so far are that I somehow have some ignition going on, otherwise it would not backfire, right? Could this be caused by a weak spark that is not able to ignite the fuel? Is there any way to diagnose whether the spark is strong enough? The car was working fine before I started messing around with it, so there is no reason to suspect a failing coil… I am running out of troubleshooting ideas… Any ideas?
  4. Dear all, I have a Spitfire mk3 with the original Delco, upgraded with electronic ignition (Pertronix Ignitor module). I decided to get a new unit, hoping to get a better advance curve overall (I guess the original is fairly worn), and sort a 180 out configuration that the previous owner had solved by altering the cables… It is important to note that, before I begun the surgery, the car started and idled at 800 rpm with no problem. I followed all the right steps: car in TDC on piston #1, on compression stroke (I have triple checked it is not 180 out by removing the rocker cover and checking the “blow” through the spark plug hole) Dizzy in, pointing to #1. Static timing with approx. 6-8 deg BTDC. Sadly, I am unable to start the car… The car cranks, but it does not turn on. I have tried with different static timings, from 10 BTDC to 2 ATDC with no luck. After losing half of my hair (and charging the battery three times due to the cranking) I decided to go back to the previous configuration. Again, no luck. I presume it is a timing issue, but I have the feeling I have tried with all the combinations possible between 10BTDC to 2 ATDC. Since I have not been able to start it, dynamic timing with the timing light is not an option. I don’t understand how come the car does not start, it’s a mystery… Any suggestion would be very welcome. Thanks in advance!  
  5. UPS!!  :o I presume that implies using a Churchill puller or similar right?
  6. I am in the process of rebuilding the rear brakes due to lack of effect from the left rear brake (I've been told it's braking 50% less than the RHS brake). I was shocked when I found both drum and shoes in good conditions, but thick grease (not oil) coming out from the axle shaft (see picture), some of which splattered and was around the springs. What do you think? My first impression is that the brake might have lost effectiveness due to contamination with grease (even though there is not much…). Is it possible to get grease from the bearing if the seal is gone?  :o
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