Upriis
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Everything posted by Upriis
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Will see you all there! Powder blue TR3A, modified beyond my lowly capabilities. Was first time last year, looking forward to it again. Great weather last year after a soggy start….
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If you do have HS6's fitted on a stock GT6 manifold you really should fit the fuel bowls as described above. It makes a complete difference to the fueling throughout the rev range. without them you can balance the carbs ok at idle but as soon as the throttle is opened, due to the different parts of the metering needle being used it immediately goes out of balance.
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I am also eagerly awaiting the final outcome on the best exhaust manifold to use. unfortunately I purchased the triumphtune one about 6 years ago as they were the only so called performance ones that I knew of at the time. I am toying with the idea of making up an alloy airbox with a K&N cone filter attached to suitable hose up in front of the rad. never heard of optiflex alignment ??) is it an industry standard? anyone any experiance of fitting a late saloon manifold to a GT6???
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I shall try Chris Witor. I really want to mount these up on all 4 studs. does anyone know if gasflowing the inlet manifold has major benefits to performance or am I better off looking for performance gains with different type of carbs. for info the engine is 2.5 st3 unleaded, fast road 89 cam, roller rockers, etc
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I have swapped over the float bowls and shimmed the valves as appropriate. The adjustments on the main jets are now 12.5 flats down for the front carb and 14 for the rear one to give a reading of 13.5 A/F ratio on each (close eneough for me ::)). many thanks for all the help and suggestions ( ;D particularly a turner carbs ;D) I have attached a photo of the float bowls to highlight the difference and help any others who may have the same problem (1310 on the left 2140 right) Anyone on here know of anyone that can gas flow inlet manifolds and aluminum weld? I would like to replace the adaptor plates so that the carbs will fit directly to the manifold. (i understand that the TR6 / T2500 tc dont fit under the GT6 Bonnett) Once again Many Thanks (due to the help freely given on here I have become a fully paid up member of Club Triumph 8))
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;DMany thanks ;D have checked the numbers and I have AUC1310 on the front and rear float bowls. I have also just checked one of my spitfires which has number AUC2140 on both the front and rear. am I correct in thinking I can change the bowl over :D and get a new 2140 bowl for the spitfire as and when? I have not measured the bowls but I presume the 2140 is taller ??)???
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Many Thanks for that link it explains my problem precisely so solutions so far machine the HS6 float bowls Obtain AUD2140 & AUD1310 float bowls Obtain HIF 6 carbs (can HS6 needles be used? dashpot height issues?) Obtain stromberg 175 carbs (aren`t they more difficault to tune with less parts available and less metering needles available) Obtain webers/dellortos + manifold+ linkage+etc etc find a way of fitting fuel injection mechanical / electronic
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Many Thanks for all the replies. The above basic picture is obviously exaggerated, however the principle remains. The metering needle is not the same difference in thickness throughout its length The needle i am using presently is BCH 990, 950, 920, 892, 863, 833, 800, 772, 745, 722, 700, 678, 656, 634, 612, 592 so theoretically if fuel is being delivered from mettering point 6 on the front carb (863) and point 9 (745) on the rear carb on lifting the throttle to the next metering point the difference in fueling will be 30 on the front carb and only 23 on the rear carb. (again i may be well out of my league with this!) the car has always run very well and has a lot of power. I am trying to seek the best as possible from this engine (the problem has only been found after using a wideband air/fuel ratio monitor) I have attached a simple spreadsheet that I have used to try and make sense of this confusing subject (it may be of use to someone)
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yes jony I have spoken with you before. How is life with the yellow one?
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hopefully the following basic picture might explain my problem better than i can explain it :B It appears that the fuel level is lower on the bottom left float bowl but it is just an optical illusion (that or sunday drinking :o)
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Didnt think of that one but the wife did suggest tractor wheels on the rear ;D
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I have adjusted them to the max (lowered the front float by adding spacers under the valve and elongating the needle in the valve) Thanks for the suggestion though james :)
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??)I am after a little bit of help / advice. ??) I have brand new HS6 carbs fitted using Triumphtune adaptor plates on a standard GT6 Inlet manifold, these are fitted to a 2.5l TR6 Engine. The problem is the fuel level on the rear carb is far lower than the front. (this is plainly evident when looking down upon the top of the jets) the only reason i can find for this to happen is because of the angle of the engine instalation. I have tried using spacers under the float valves and increasing the length of the float needles to make the fuel levels different in the front & rear float bowls / carb jets, but there is not adjustment to make them level >:( I have a wideband air/fuel meter that i can connect to both collectors on my 6-2-1 manifold. on the front carb to get a fuel ratio of 13:1 at idle I nedd to lower the jet from flush 11 flats while the rear carb nedds to be turned down 20 flats. this obviously makes both carbs operate on a different part of the metering needle throughout the entire rev range or am I reading too much into this? :-/ ?? anyway any help would be greatly apprieciated. (before I have to look into dellortos ;D or electronic fuel injection ;D ;D)
