RedRooster
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Its not direct enough until you rose joint the links, that makes it a proper job if you have set up the castor / camber properly, but thats another thread. RR
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Have Canley set up & certainly helped with a new tight engine. Also have a Denso i bought off the internet which looks identical but turns the other way! Thats free to anyone who wants it if i can find it. RR
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2nd that.
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Guess your going to have to take that valve out & have a look.
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Leak down test if you have a compressor would be another thing. Also check the torque of the head bolts, may give you an idea if they are loose. To be honest its only going to take a couple of hours to get the head off & you probably need to do that anyway so just get on with it.
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Check your water for oil & check your oil for water, if you can find some one with a block leak tester try that.
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Check your water for oil & check your oil for water, if you can find some one with a block leak tester try that.
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I know that which is why i mentioned a stiffener plate earlier.
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the indents can't be working then or you wouldn't need to hammer the bolt holes flat again. RR
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Would a spreader plate between all the bolts help prevent the bolt holes distorting?
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have you a straight edge you can use with some feeler gauges to check the block & head faces?
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Good progress John, had a feeling that the gaps may end up bigger after welding, can't say why just a hunch you know how it is sometimes.
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What about when the welds cool? 😉
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Can't make the noise John D its 0.05 off, shocking work. RR
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Mine was sitting around since 72 in a car which had an engine fire, came back brand new http://www.jlspares.com/index.htm RR