StagNL
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16th of March Dutch Nightrally (a.k.a Chinese rally)
StagNL replied to GTRoger's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Hello Lads and Lasses! Mr Bishop contacted me a few days ago regarding this years event, which as already mentioned is on Saturday 14th March. Pretty much the same set up as previous editions. Start and finish is at a Chinese Restaurant with around 180km of darkness ensured. There is the base Tour class with a routebook of Tulip diagrams and the Sport class that is pretty much all map reading with the usual tricks such as barricades, drawn line and shortest route between arrows. Currently the following links are available, unfortunately only in Dutch at present; Event webpage: https://triumph.nl/nl/content/17-nacht-van-het-oosten Entry form: https://triumph.nl/nl/content/inschrijven-evenement select event and click 'naar inschrijven'. This may well be the last time this is organised by myself as unfortunately my health is failing. However, I may get lucky and then the future may then be bright again. I hope to see some of you soon! Regards, Julian- 9 replies
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16th of March Dutch Nightrally (a.k.a Chinese rally)
StagNL replied to GTRoger's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Don, the event is open to anyone with the right spirit! Bringing a Triumph is not a must but ideally a classic or sports cars is favourable. A varied starting field is nicer than all of the same marque. You mention the Motorcycle museum.... is that the one near Raalte? if so, its a good hour or so drive from the this years starting location. That said, lots of nice bikes there! Julian- 9 replies
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17th March 2018 Nacht vh Oosten (Chinese) rally
StagNL replied to GTRoger's topic in Comps & Motorsport
The 16th Nacht van het Oosten (Chinese) rally is being prepared as we speak. The date is Saturday 16th March 2019. Start and finish is the same as last year but the restaurant has a new name, Asian Spoon. Details regarding the times and prices will follow shortly but for now those from last year, as in first post of this thread, can be seen as a guideline and probably won't be much different. The format will also be the same with a Tour class of tulips with additional controls for those who feel inclined to do a bit more than just tulips and a Sport class with map reading and other forms of route plotting. During the closing of edition 2018 the organiser, Rutger aka Rallyman, had stated that he getting too busy with other projects and this one had to make way for others. He put forward the suggestion that it could possibly picked up by someone else but there were no takers at the time. Since then my good friend Joop (past participant) and myself have decided to keep the tradition going, or at least give it go anyway. We will have some support for Rutger but the route itself will be generally our own doing. Right now I post this in the 2018 edition thread as I cannot seem to post new topics. Maybe Roger can post a dedicated thread topic for edition 2019? Cheers and hopefully till March the 16th! Julian Kuipers -
I seem te recall a former Triumph engineer in an interview on the Clancy DVD saying that slant 6 and V12 were envisioned....
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After finding that a T piece did not fit wel, I decided to rely solely on the poil pressure gauge I fitted.... with its very dim illumination.... and a warning light set at 20lbs would be on all the time at low rpm as mine has around 12-15lbs at hot idle..... been like this for years.... not worried one bit. Julian
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I'm interested in the outcome of that straight through test too... Julian
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Mike, I think there can be a marked difference between the standard H type cross pipe and an X pipe. Could be wrong though... Julian
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You'd need some new screws with wider heads would you not? I got around the problem by getting the brackets welded back on. As I am not proficient enough in aluminium welding I got someone else to do it. Julian
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I took mine off several years ago and decided to go for an electric one in front of the standard radiator. The car runs perfectly without the VC fan and the electric only comes on on really hot days while stationary for a long time such as traffic jams. Been on long runs on hot days and as soon as the car gets moving I see the needle drop purely from the windflow. Julian
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If yours is OK then I would stick with it and not try to fix something that isn't broken. If yours is stuffed, I'd keep with the original setup as DJT also says. If your car is overheating first make sure everything is up to standard before replacing the radiator. Before you know it you may still have an overheating problem despite fitting an alloy radiator and heater tank and electric water pump. Cause needs addressing, not symptoms. Julian
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One contributor here who resides here in the Netherlands was a classic automotive mechanic before he decided to do exactly what you propose. He said it was very quiet in the first 6 months or so and then it took off and now there is a waiting list. He does work for all sorts, classics, motorsports, custom jobs, high-end horse floats, you name it. He says it has been the best professional decision he has made. Julian
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Yes, the subframe bushes can shear if lifting via the subframe. Tyre fitters tend to have two post lifts with the adjustable arms. I either help them out or stay to point out where and where not to put the lift points. Usually I say under the vertical stud as you also have done. Julian
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When I rebuilt my engine I found the pump and seals were OK but the sealing face on the impellor was corroded and pitted. I simply machined off a bit in a lathe until I had a fresh clean surface. I didn't take much material off, maybe 0.2-0.3mm. This I then treated to a wear resistant semi ceramic coating, about 0.08mm thick. Any loss in height is made up for via the spring. The rest of the impellor was also treated after being bead blasted. Did the work in 2003 and has been fine since. Julian
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When I rebuilt my engine I found the pump and seals were OK but the sealing face on the impellor was corroded and pitted. I simply machined off a bit in a lathe until I had a fresh clean surface. I didn't take much material off, maybe 0.2-0.3mm. This I then treated to a wear resistant semi ceramic coating, about 0.08mm thick. Any loss in height is made up for via the spring. The rest of the impellor was also treated after being bead blasted. Did the work in 2003 and has been fine since. Julian
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General rule of thumb to test hardness is to try scratching the surface witha craft knife or HSS drill bit.if it doesn't scratch the surface is harder than 55HRc. Generally hardened parts are harder than that. Julian