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Mark Hammond

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  1. Certainly it was +/ve earth when built, the alternator gives it away as -/ve earth now....   Mark
  2. From what I recollect, there is 2 clamps (one each side) holding the panel to the main dashboard.  You may need to remove the choke cable at the carburettor end and undo the other switches, but to remove the main master light switch you just need to undo the switch by removing the bezel. Mark
  3. Well for a start, you have the wrong plugs, which will never help, I think it's unlikely that the distributor is the culprit, pitted points however, again, will never help.  I might suggest that the correct distributor, new, well adjusted points of a known good brand, the correct plugs, of a known good brand, condenser and coil ditto and set the static timing correctly "to the book" is a good basis for a starting point (no pun intended).  I'd set the carburettor as per the book and make running adjustments from there given modern fuel burns hotter than the old 4 star that this car would have been designed for. Mark
  4. Yes, if the original type, but you can have the later sort if you prefer. Mark
  5. To my thinking this is ignition related.  Most running issues are.  I’d put it back to plugs, points, condenser and coil.  Yes, first ring up a gravity fed temporary fuel supply obviously don’t drive it like that but isolate a weakness with the fuel pump first.  It will be something simple, most breakdowns or running issues on older cars are ignition related rather than fuel related. Mark
  6. It might be ignition related but I’d try substituting the Petrol pump with a known good one to eliminate it first.  Just as an afterthought, it should have a guaze filter in the top so it’s likely that someone has been at it.  Check that the pump is operating and is the correct pump and that it is correctly locating on the cam.  Some pumps require a block or spacer between the engine and the pump and it’s possible it is missing or equally it requires one. Mark
  7. I'd check that isn't old and stale petrol in the tank first.  That will make it run badly.  The slow running jet is notorious for blocking on the Solex, otherwise it is a good match for the 6 port 1200 engine.  The Stromberg isn't the best choice of alternative, I'd consider a Weber or twin SUs before that choice.  There really isn't anything wrong with the Solex if well sorted and set up properly unless you are after more performance, and then there are a whole host of other considerations as well. Mark
  8. Honestly?  I wouldn’t worry.  Fit your engine and enjoy your car. Mark
  9. £1000 seems as cheap as a budgie to me!  I think you've done alright there.  You couldn't get the old one reconditioned for that with provenance. Mark
  10. Paint stripper or a mild media blasting should help.  For a more natural lock, I'd go semi-gloss black, I cannot recall what the original was but it was probably a full on gloss. Cheers, Mark
  11. '71 convertible what?  Vitesse or Herald? Mark
  12. I thought that the flat one was for the coil spring and the bevelled one for the diaphragm type, but I could be wrong.....  Undo the slots, take the bearing off the carrier and drift it off the sleeve?  It's been a while since I've had one apart. Mark
  13. I'd go the 13/60 (small crank GE series) route, easiest, cheapest and 60ish BHP to give ok performance. Mark
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