Bainzy
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Hi Sam, did you have any success with these?
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Just browsing some old threads. I eventually figured out what these are, they are a standard part on many BL cars called a 'spire nut'. FC2803 is the one - I think, although there seem to be different sizes for bigger screws (FC2804, FC2805...). Just waiting till suppliers get them in stock again to find out for sure.
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Lots of photos of mine in this thread Wim. Sorry , link no longer available The brackets are tight but do more or less fit.
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Spitfire Mk4/1500 door glass - 2kg per window (so 4kg a pair). Spitfire 1500 USA door with side impact bar - bare shell with only hinges - 11kg
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I like bondarust - very good spec and easy to apply. Epoxy mastic (rustbusters) is also excellent, it can be used as a topcoat and seems extremely tough, the only downside is it has to be mixed from two parts so can be tricky to mix the correct amount for the job.
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I don't really buy that argument - if Newton Commercial acquired the original tooling then they should be able to mould carpet of the same pile quality that Triumph used to. Perhaps that type of carpet takes more initiative to source nowadays or costs more but what's the point in selling a product that fixes one problem by causing another? I suspect it's more due to rationalisation or finding cheap sources of modern mouldable carpet than genuinely not being able to create/obtain mouldable carpet with a quality pile.
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+1, they are a thin (almost nonexistent) pile and are more or less like the floor covering on our 2008 Fiesta. The samples I've got look more like kitchen scouring pads than carpet. It's a tough choice between unoriginal looking carpet with a good fit, versus luxurious carpet with varying degrees of an imperfect fit.
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Probably not Roger, but I suppose it depends how liberally it's applied. The contact area between the two surfaces isn't large, so provided the solder completely covers this, any excess flux wouldn't be spoiling the join. It might be bad for the rest of the ring but even then, I can't see it destroying the fitting, just make sure you only apply it where you want the solder to be. I used a non acid, non toxic flux by LA-CO.
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Just a tip for anyone with unimpressive or intermittent lights, my Dad's TR6 was due an MOT but the indicators were stuck on when activating the right side. The problem turned out to be a bad bulb holder, but the new ones are the same design and inevitably would have corroded again. The ground connection is made up of a tang that touches the bulb, and a metal ring inside the bulb holder. These two pieces of metal corrode and stop touching, but you can't clean it off easily because the corrosion is under the metal ring. You can however remove the ring, so my solution was to coat both mating surfaces with flux after cleaning them, and I soldered the connection after placing them back. The flux helps the solder get sucked right between the join, and hey presto - working light bulb again.
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I saw their stand at the first TRR Harrogate International, they had an engine demo and there was also an owner there who had the conversion done on his own car. I think he was pleased with it, though was having low speed running issues - but he suspected this was because he had the flywheel lightened, not the EFI. Can't remember his name but he had put a lot of effort into his car's engine bay, making bespoke brackets for things and it looked a really neat job. The manifold they make is a really neat job, with conical shaped inlet runners, though from what I remember it was also a lot of money.
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Used special tyre paint, ended up with 5 coats to get a good, reliable finish. Any less and it browns too quickly, and even with 5 it will still go brown eventually so will need touching up every so often. Not sure I'd bother again but it looked very race-y.
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They're much more efficient than a heater and if done right, are difficult to detect and can add value to the car. In winter the heater will still be blowing cold air by the time they are roasting. I think my alternator was 45 or 55A when I first put them in and I had no trouble. I fitted some into my Dads TR6 and that still has the original alternator (whatever a 72 car came with, probably feeble) and it doesn't trouble the car. I'm trying at the moment to fit them to my W124 Merc but want to use an original Merc loom for them, just need to find a cheap second hand loom.
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Ouch. If you're feeling ambitious Roy you could try adapt one of those Volvo overdrives with an even lower ratio. Now thats a project I'd like to see!
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Original seats look great and should be pretty good with new foam. Make sure you keep them safe if you do decide to change them!
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Laurence, any chance you could share a picture or part number of the water/oil cooler? I'm wanting to fit one of those as they have the added bonus of warming the engine up faster.