Sideways Tim
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can mk4 spitfire ignition key barrel be replaced?
Sideways Tim replied to hyperhale's topic in Electrical
Just had a quick look on Paddocks site it's part number UKC2719 £65. Pain in the bum to fit though. -
can mk4 spitfire ignition key barrel be replaced?
Sideways Tim replied to hyperhale's topic in Electrical
Mine failed on me and I got a replacement from James Paddocks - can't remember how much it was, but not £150. -
Likewise. My 1300 Spit was sans OD and a few longer trips here and there (Le Mans, Lake Garda) confirmed the requirement for a taller cruising gear. OD units and gearboxes seem to come up fairly regularly on ebay though, so don't let no OD put you off an otherwise good car.
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Ok thanks John. So it is probably the correct box for the car being an FH originally, but has been re-conditioned at some point. Makes sense. Does that mean all I need is the correct mainshaft to allow the overdrive to fit ? If so - anyone know the best source, either used or new old stock? Cheers.
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I swapped my box for a replacement with D Type O/D a while back. All is good with the overdrive, but the 'new' box is no where near as nice as my old one was. I want to alter my old box (new main shaft) to fit the D Type and was wondering if they are all basically the same? Looking at the picture, you can see the serial number has been over stamped. Anyone care to take a guess at what it actually is/was? Cheers.
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It's ok, sorted it with a small hook. Was slightly worried for a moment though! All set for Classic Le Mans now.
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I'm fitting new cones as they are quite worn and in the middle of adjusting them, one of the bonnet latches is now stuck and I can't open it. Bonnet is down - any ideas what to do?
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Tricky to measure the bore of the cylinders accurately, but it looks like the new one is actually slightly smaller than the old one :( I think I'll change the pads and see if that makes a difference.
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Pads are Mintex 1144, so in theory they should be fine with the heat. M/C was a complete new unit, so seals should be correct.
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Rest of the braking system is tip top. New hoses, newish pads, newish discs, new pistons and seals. It definitely stopped better before changing the master cylinder, but was proving impossible to bleed. Now the pedal feel is lovely and firm, but the actual stopping power is poor. I did cook the pads on an alpine descent last year, would that have any bearing?
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I've replaced my master cylinder due to the old one sucking in air and since fitting the new one the brakes are basically a bit crap. They work, but it takes a hell of a lot of pedal pressure to stop. Could have a wrong un? I mean is there a difference between master cylinders that could cause this effect - bore or stoke or something?
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To answer my own question, yes. Just needed to swap the reverse selector rail and selector from the Mk3 top cover and grind a flat on to it to activate the reverse light switch.
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I'm fitting a Mk3 gearbox and overdrive to my Mk4 - all going smoothly so far, but the Mk box doesn't have provision for a reversing light switch. Simple question, can I use the top cover from the Mk4 box with it's switch on the Mk3 box?
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Well it went back together quite smoothly. The fact that it's out on the bench has to help though!
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Thanks - chamfering away!