siroldvolks

Im hoping more so the source of the rattle.  only the 3 rods mentioned were making contact with the head, but everything looked centred with the valve stem. The rocker assembly was one of the few things not touched, as there was little wear on the shaft and lobes all good just a good cleanup.  Thats why i can't figure out whats changed in that respect. couldn't ever imagine it being something like that but partly relieved and hopeful i've found something!  checking against the manual diagram is looks built correctly with the spacers in the right place. confirmed that a few of the pushrods are now bent tho   something for the shopping list.  I don't know what to do about the alignment of the assembly as the same thing is going to happen.  

Ok so in a feat of excitement, i whipped off the rocker cover and had a good nosy.  Something that I haven't noticed before, but 3 of the pushrods are right up against the edge of the head - on exhaust valves no. 4, 8 and 12.  As attached - i wouldn't have thought that being right surely?  I'm concerned about them being bent now...

Thanks for the feedback. firing order is good to go, but i'm not pushing it just yet with running in so bit gingerly on the pedal and not worsen the rattle.  I was afraid of piston slap too.  i can't believe that with a rebore , pistons etc?  Little end bushes were done also yes, although there was no difference after .  Looking back at my records piston skirt to bore clearance was 0.0025" from the builders, and there was a 0.016" difference between bottom and top of piston width.  no pin offset however.  99.9% confident cam timing is spot on too So this evening i made myself a makeshift stethoscope to attach it to specific parts of the block and listen from inside the car.  I tried manifold side, timing cover and then rocker cover first and wasn't anything that stood out.  Next i tried coil side just below the head.  Definitely something more audible there, and obvious louder rattle when under load.  Thats a far as I have got as it's gotten too hot.  is there anything specific i can look for to check around pushrod  or rocker related in that area that might cause this?  

I don't think it's pinking, it's more mechanical unless its so lean . But retarding ign just makes it run worse . And the rattle is still there In some ways I'm hoping it's valve train related . Or something stupid / easy fix without ripping everything apart again . Just frustrating . Everything else has been done we can think of. A keen ear will know I'm sure and hopi g for some next diagnosis options. Tonight I'm going g to try a makeshift extended stethoscope so I can try and pinpoint when driving . It does seem upper block area

Hi All Quick update having returned to tackle this a somewhat.  First thing was to up the ign timing a bit since having readjusted the cam timing last week.  Have upped timing to 10deg btdc (from 7), idle set at 850rpm  and there is a slight improvement now in idle and doesn't miss/hesitate as much like it did before with a throttle snap - but fettled with idle speed, balance and mixture again so maybe a combination.  when cold it's still a rough and lumpy. improvement in drivability / low end. Still low + unsteady vacuum and have been around all the inlet manifold again to check for leaks and made sure all bolts are tight and seated correctly.  I did about a 30mile run tonight, got back and idle was back rough again and wanted to stall.  I'm still considering a different set of carbs just to tick that off the list. Next I went to the fuel pump / filter.  Removed the glass filter I had but no difference.  Although i did a pressure test on the fuel pump and noticed that on each pump the pressure would drop 1psi and  wasn't constant, not sure if thats normal?.  I had a spare fuel pump to compare with and that held constant pressure with each pump so I stuck that on just to be sure. Anyways, as i'm getting a bit more drivabilty, I'd focus on the rattle which i really dont think sounds right or healthy and don't want to do any damage!  I had this somewhat before the rebuild, but i put the previous knock/rattle down to piston issue.  but now it's even worse.   mounted a camera inside the engine bay to get a clearer sound - i can't detect when it's running at idle where it's coming from, as it's mostly under load.  it does quieten down when warmed up, and i really hope it's not piston slap Heres the audio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpssGaKNZlE 1min in is drive off and the 'that aint healthy' noise ...first bit is from cold and around the village, later on is open road / longer straights.  I hope it's something simple as im totally out of ideas.  thanks again

Thanks for the input . I used to run around 10degs before rebuild , but set a little lower to start with and start dialling it in accordingly. I tried 8, 10 then 12 but had no difference in the idle quality - of course ,reset idle speed , carbs etc with each jump. Still couldn't get vacuum above 15 and noticeable miss + hesitation on rev . Reluctant to venture out too far on the roads ! Yes, I've got one of those glass inline filters before the fuel pump . I haven't tried removing it to test but I'll give that a go , thanks I'm away from it all for a few days to collect my thoughts.   My plan when back is to revisit the carbs and any leaks , up timing a bit , try the filter remove too. I'm wondering I've I'm getting a lean misfire at idle ,  which is causing detonation on load when driving (rattle) . Even tho the plugs don't seem to indicate it.   Cheers

Hi Steve, thanks for the feedback and encouragement!  I've spent the past couple of days faffing around with it, not really gotten very far in fact worse i think to the point it's thrown back in the garage for another day    . Anyways, as timing keeps cropping up Ive revisited the cam setup.  As this is a standard cam fitted I used the Lift on overlap method as best i could without having to take too much apart.  I was getting a repeated 6 degrees too advanced showing on the pulley.  hmmm! So after removing the timing cover, the timing marks showed perfect alignment at tdc against the cam sprocket.  but lift on overlap check was then out.  I wasn't too sure what was best to do at this point, but as the book goes with equal lift on overlap method when no timing marks exist, i set it as that and re-scribed a new timing line. after getting everything back together , and reset ignition timing back to 7degs...there was absolutely no change in rough idle, vacuum around 15 hg.  I had a drive out and  sounded quite rattly still.  felt a bit sluggish too I've been through all the ignition again, and replaced coil just to be sure.  Spark is good from the dizzy, and i've used an inline tester.  pulling each wire there is a noticeable drop in idle so it's a very random miss.  not really noticeable when driving either. after checking everything over with the carbs again it ended really playing up and refusing to idle properly.  I just cannot find any leaks, or at least sparying anything that makes any difference to the idle.  there a very noticeable stumble at the initial point you rev it.  it spat through the carbs a little, and i could see fuel pooling on the carb bridges (float height is 18mm) At that point i gave up! im left thinking is it carbs....it's the only piece in the puzzle not been changed (apart form being rebuilt) and whether to bite the bullet and get another set.  

Cheers . standard cam , yep.  Been round with wd40 / carb cleaner and couldn't notice any change in note.  Will double check again .  Diaphragms are ok too .  Thanks

Hi All, I'm looking for any advice after hitting a brick wall following the rebuild of my gt6 mk3 engine, and tearing whats left of my hair out!.  a previous failed piston has resulted in some surgery to get it back up and running again, and roll on what feels a lifetime I'm still struggling to get it back in healthy state, and don't really have/know anyone around the area to help out.  Pretty much everything has been renewed or reconditioned to date, and general symptoms is poor idle, rough running and low vacuum.  The car is sort of drivable although not pushing in much at the moment whilst rings bed in properly.  something isn't right though   A quick run down of what been done so far: block rebored to +.030.  Crank ground .020 under.  new camshaft, pistons, tappets.  carbs rebuilt (cd150se), Distributor reconditioned. general observations are bit of a misfire/ random "putting" from exhaust, low vacuum reading.  no problems starting it, plugs look good, not fouling and doesn't seem to be overfueling.   Oil pressure is a bit high at the moment with fresh build/tight clearances.  Engine is what I would call "rattly" under load.  timing is set at 7 degrees atm.  compression hot and cold is 150-160 across the board new plugs, leads, cap and rotor on the ignition side.  has electronic ignition These videos below hopefully gives an idea!  it does sound a bit better on the vids than in person, just to me something isn't right Vacuum test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jF2K53y_8mk exhaust note @ 1500rpm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoX4aNlAdys idle and exhaust note https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hs2JzkrfcM Engine rev https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcxbFPIyk8Y Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated, the lack of 2 years proper use is giving withdrawl symptoms thanks so much Andrew

Hi Brendan, yes it was indeed!   Pretty much piston slap on #6 as there was a noticeable rock on first inspection. I also side you on those thoughts.  I am in such a dilemma on which route to take, I guess it's more the not knowing without trying really but I know it a slippery slope once you start....I don't have much to compare to/remember as a good setup but longed for it not running out of steam after 4k.   Have spoken to Newman and happy to make up a 308778 cam profile which is great, and as I'm nearing early mk3 territory in terms of CR calculations and along with a bit of a needle profiling I shouldn't be far off matching setup to suit.  I've always got a new 311399 cam spec, so it's not too much of a biggy to swap that back in if I don't get along with it. I need to make a call by the end of the weekend or else I'll never get it done to enjoy the last of the good(ish) weather!

Hi Brendan, yes it was indeed!   Pretty much piston slap on #6 as there was a noticeable rock on first inspection. I also side you on those thoughts.  I am in such a dilemma on which route to take, I guess it's more the not knowing without trying really but I know it a slippery slope once you start....I don't have much to compare to/remember as a good setup but longed for it not running out of steam after 4k.   Have spoken to Newman and happy to make up a 308778 cam profile which is great, and as I'm nearing early mk3 territory in terms of CR calculations and along with a bit of a needle profiling I shouldn't be far off matching setup to suit.  I've always got a new 311399 cam spec, so it's not too much of a biggy to swap that back in if I don't get along with it. I need to make a call by the end of the weekend or else I'll never get it done to enjoy the last of the good(ish) weather!

Excellent thank you, that's all is a great help !  certainly goes along with my thinking...without investing too much £££ and I'm not after major gains.  I think on balance I realise how tired the old engine was   I've replaced/done way more already that I originally anticipated, but I guess that's always the way   I've also has the head redone with new inserts, although it had double valve springs fitted which i don't think is stock for the mk3. I'll replace like for like however. I'll give the duplex timing kit upgrade a miss too Will give Newmans a buzz this week and see what they can do - hopefully there isn't too long lead time cheers

Excellent thank you, that's all is a great help !  certainly goes along with my thinking...without investing too much £££ and I'm not after major gains.  I think on balance I realise how tired the old engine was   I've replaced/done way more already that I originally anticipated, but I guess that's always the way   I've also has the head redone with new inserts, although it had double valve springs fitted which i don't think is stock for the mk3. I'll replace like for like however. I'll give the duplex timing kit upgrade a miss too Will give Newmans a buzz this week and see what they can do - hopefully there isn't too long lead time cheers

Hi All Well this year as been a very quiet year for my gt6, mainly due to engine issue taking it off the road for the worst time in the year!  Missed using it for sure.   I'm just finishing off an engine rebuild due to a piston problem, and a rather poorly one at that on removal, see attached...top ring is fused! Fortunately not too much damage, had the block rebored to +.030 (was .020 previously).  Crank has gotten away with just a polish and re-balance although it's been reground -.010 in the past. Short block is pretty much ready to mount back, but one thing that has been bugging me is camshaft options. The old camshaft was pitted on a couple of lobes (311399, gt6 mk3 cam type) so I got new one from blank several months ago ready to go back in.  however in the back of my mind thinking should I put something a little less limiting.  I'm thinking along the lines of the cam profile from earlier gt6 (308778?) with a slightly longer duration - im aware it's quite a rare cam now and only seems available as a reprofile.  In real world terms, would I gain/see much difference?  I'll be honest and say it's area of mods I've never delved before, but keen to at least explore and understand more about.  But otherwise the car is stock, domed type pistons, standard strommy CD150SE's and head too.  I don't intend to change anything else, at most I would probably ever do is an aftermarket manifold if I came across a suitable one.  or is it more hassle than worth fitting another cam considering the lower CR/different head etc?  is it even possible with having domed pistons and just stuck with the standard cam for the mk3? I am trying to keep the budget limited where possible, but considering things that are really worthwhile doing whilst I can - what about fitted duplex timing kit or is that really a peace of mind thing? thank you for your help

Hi All Well this year as been a very quiet year for my gt6, mainly due to engine issue taking it off the road for the worst time in the year!  Missed using it for sure.   I'm just finishing off an engine rebuild due to a piston problem, and a rather poorly one at that on removal, see attached...top ring is fused! Fortunately not too much damage, had the block rebored to +.030 (was .020 previously).  Crank has gotten away with just a polish and re-balance although it's been reground -.010 in the past. Short block is pretty much ready to mount back, but one thing that has been bugging me is camshaft options. The old camshaft was pitted on a couple of lobes (311399, gt6 mk3 cam type) so I got new one from blank several months ago ready to go back in.  however in the back of my mind thinking should I put something a little less limiting.  I'm thinking along the lines of the cam profile from earlier gt6 (308778?) with a slightly longer duration - im aware it's quite a rare cam now and only seems available as a reprofile.  In real world terms, would I gain/see much difference?  I'll be honest and say it's area of mods I've never delved before, but keen to at least explore and understand more about.  But otherwise the car is stock, domed type pistons, standard strommy CD150SE's and head too.  I don't intend to change anything else, at most I would probably ever do is an aftermarket manifold if I came across a suitable one.  or is it more hassle than worth fitting another cam considering the lower CR/different head etc?  is it even possible with having domed pistons and just stuck with the standard cam for the mk3? I am trying to keep the budget limited where possible, but considering things that are really worthwhile doing whilst I can - what about fitted duplex timing kit or is that really a peace of mind thing? thank you for your help