cbjroms

Located on a few miles from Beaulieu. So if you are in the area for the Autojumble and want to take a look call me (Chris - 07717 604199)

I have a number of parts left over from my Herald 13/60 rebuild. All of these were cleaned, shot blasted and powder coated a few years ago and have been carefully stored ever since. The list of parts is faitrly long but includes front/rear hubs, rera brake drums, rear tie rods and brackets, rear shafts, front uprights, metal fan, steering arms and rear back plates. I would ideally like to sell the whole lot to someone who can come and view/collect from Romsey (Hampshire). Not sure of the value of these but just want a fair (to both parties) price. If you are interested please contact me by PM. Hope I am not breaking any rules by not listing each item individually, with multiple photos and a price for each.

Grateful for the advice, a combination of the above methods and the use of a screw/claw hammer saw the offending article removed without any damage to surrounding faces. Thanks all

I am trying to remove the core plug which sits on the off-side of the engine behind the water pump. Having drilled a hole in it and pushed a screwdriver into the hole, I thought that I would be able to lever the plug out. But, as you will see below I have opened-up the plug but the rim is stuck tight and has not moved. Looking for some tips. I am concerned about trying to get under the rim of the plug in case I damage the holding face of the block. The other thought I had was to use a die-grinder to thin the rim so that I can easily lift it but, there again, am I going to damage the block? What would be the safest way to proceed?  

The problem appears to have been solved. Convinced the problem was an air leak (just because symptoms seemed a close match) I did some testing with a water spray and found that there seemed to be a leak along the lower edge of of the intake manifold. Then I looked at the accelerator bracket which fits into the underside of the intake manaifold and, only then, spotted the problem. I mentioned above that I had managed to snap the tab off the exhaust manifold when I took the head off. Obvioulsy the stud for the accelerator bracket goes through the tab (the tab snapped-off across this hole) into the threaded hole in the air intake and then a nut goes on top.  With the half the tab on the exhaust manifold missing, I had just tightened the nut to make the accclerator bracket tight. But I had not noticed that the nut was now jammed against the hole on the edge of the tab. So, rather than the stud being tight to the side of the hole, it was the nut in my case and this was preventing the lower edge of the inlet manifold fitting tight against its gasket. Removing the inlet manifold and griding-off the tab has resulted in a sweet and even idle.      

Thanks for your response @ Rob Pearce. I get your point completely, rough can mean all sorts of things. I decided to go back over everything again as frustration was getting the better of me. Having used the Coloutune to get the mixture right and checked the valve clearnces again the engine is now running fine with a bit of accelerator. I have narrowed the problem down to the way the engine runs at idle. Whether cold with a bit of choke, or warm, the revs go up and down at idle without any change of accelerator or choke. At it lowest revs the engine is just about stalling and either dies or revs start increasing to a very fast idle and then the cycle continues. So the only way to keep the engine running is to wind the idle screw right in so that idles at high revs. So my thoughts are either a fuel flow problem (so the bowl is never getting full) but then it doesnt need much fuel at idle. Alternatively an air leak (as I have checked that the butterfly valve movement is crisp rather than floppy). The carb is tight to the manifold (via gasket and spacer),the air filter is off and the vacuum pipe is in place between carb and distributor. Looking inside the manifold I cant see any cracks around the bolt that holds the accelerator cable bracket in place but I did snap the exhaust manifold tab when I replaced the head gasket.     

So, I took the carb off the engine, removed the bowl, cleaned-out a bit of grot, checked the valve and reassembled. The engine now runs and no longer needs massive amounts of choke to keep it running. In fact, once warm it runs (just about) without choke. But, the engine still sounds very rough and I am convinced that it is not running sweetly on all cyclinders. So I have replaced distributor cap, coil, plug leads and plugs but this has not made any difference and it sounds like there is something worng with the timing. Removing a plug lead (from whichever plug) makes no appreciable difference (ie bad or good) to the rough running. Moving the distributor either way affects the revs but not the roughness and (with the air filter removed) I frequently get a pop out of the carb when starting. I have gone back to basics and checked the leads and it is definitely 1,3,4,2 (anticlockwise) with 1 being the front cylinder. The only 2 things I have yet to re-check are the valve clearances and mixture (I increased and reduced richness to see if it improved the rough running but it made no difference). Could incorrect valve clearnces cause rough running? What other checks should I be doing?

Just checked compressions: 140/130/130/130 Then I removed air filter and the air piston looks to be in correct place:   When I was doing the compression test (throttle fully open, choke disconnected) I noticed a distinct lack of petrol fumes. Also the coil was buzzing. Whilst I know that fuel is coming out of the hose supplying the carb, I wonder whether (@tight - part of the internal mechanism of the carb could have been disturbed during its removal. ) some sediment in the carb has been dislodged and block something. How could I check this?

Thnaks for the comments above. I will check compressions today. I have swapped the plug leads round a few times and checked that I have 1,3,4,2 10 or 15 times! @Peter mentions setting-up the carb. I had it fully tuned before stripping the head and could see when the head was off that the mixture was about right. BUT, having replaced the head my assumption was that there was no need to retune. Wondering whether this is what I have missed?

My 13/60 was running quite sweetly last year but the middle cyclinders were a bit low on compression and I had concerns about the head gasket. So I had the head off at the end of last year, had it checked out by a local macine shop, all valves were reseated and I put it back together before Chrsitmas. Last weekend I checked the valve clearnces and set the timing but couldnt get it to fire. So today I have relaced plug leads/distributor cap (it is electronic ignition), checked the plug gaps and eventually managed to get it running on full choke. As the engine warms I can push the choke in until the knob is about 10mm proud of the dash at which point the engine is revving quite hard and sounds very rough. Pushing the choke in any further the engine just dies. I have tried turning the distributor to check that the timing is right and also pulled the fuel hose off the carb to check for consistent fuel flow. All looks good. Thing is that the engine needed very little choke at all to start and warm-up before I did the head gasket. Now it will only run (even when warmed-up) on part choke and it sounds very rough. I have checked each plug lead and they are receiving a good, strong spark and so I cant see that there is a problem with the coil. The carb is a CD150 which was fully reurbished last year and performed fine last summer. What is the likey cause of this?    

Those nuts are really nice quality - nearly got caught using 9/16 socket rather than 14mm! Having got the head back on, I found that one of the push-rods seemed to long. Had a think and found the screw below in the tappet! Now I thought that I had been really careful about stopping something dropping into the block with the head off. But that screw looks as if it is the same sort of age as the engine and I cant think what it could have fallen-off. It is definitely not something that I had lying around. In fact it looks like this screw butthe parts diagram shows only one required. Just wondering what else on a 13/60 engine this could be missing from? The alternative, I suppose, is that this screw has always been there, sat on top the pushrod ball-end within the tappet. Then when I pulled the pushrod out the screw rolled-off and fell into the bottom of the tappet.

I have ordered a set of those nuts - do you use washers with them or not?

Thanks for that. I have the head back on and all but the last nut torqued-up. The final nut would not hold any toque and when I tried to undo it, the stud undid instead. When I took the nut off the stud in a vice, it looks like the thread has stripped in the nut. So I am hoping that replacing the nut will do the trick. But I noticed that the end of the stud which was in the block has a slot cut through the thread: Domt want to rsik any damage to the block. Should I replace the stud or just turn it around?

Thanks guys, I can see the sticky material - thanks for the warning. Cant see any top or bottom marking on either of the faces. Am I correct in thinking the face with the metal shield between cyclinders should face down (ie it is bottom face?)?  

Bores look good and I have cleaned heard and block. I have a Payen head gasket and research suggests that it just needs a thin spead of grease.

Decided to take the head off and have a look. Found that the valves on 2 & 3 were not seating properly and a local shop cleaned head, reseated all the valves and checked the head - all for a few beer tokens. Just cleaned the block ready to put the head back on and am wondering how much effort I should be putting into the polishing of the tops of the pistons. This is what they look like after cleaning: Is there any benefit in going further?  

Just got my 13/60 back on the road and have noticed that the bottom end has started to knock for the first few revolutions when the engine starts. Wondering whether the oil pump is at fault or whether an oil additive could save the day? Would measuring the oil pressure be of any help at this stage? If it is the oil pump then might I as well replace the bottom end bearings or is a major rebuild inevitable? What would you guys advise? 

I have done the test again with the engine cold and the throttle fully open. The table shows PSI for each cyclinder before and after a shot of oil. What does this show?

Did a tune-up yesterday and so decided to do a compression test. Results were 135psi / 120psi / 120 psi / 140psi There is some faint white/grey smoke on harsh acceleration but no water in the oil of oil in the water. Given all cylinders are within 20psi, thinking that everything best left alone for now. Does my thinking make sense?

Want to replace the chassis plate on my Herald and am looking for someone who can stamp it for me. Any suggestions?

I have checked that it is the nut that is turning on the (U Bolt) stud rather than the stud turning with the nut - it occured to me that the stud might have snapped off. I cant undo the nut as it just turns but doesnt ride up the thread. So I have adopted the suggestion above and out another nut on top of it and this tightened-up nicely.  Cant see it is going to be very easy to cut the spinning nut off as access is quite limited. Is it safe to leave with the second nut tight and on top?

Just checking the front/rear supsension and steering before the MOt next week. The rack is fixed to the chassis by 2 x clamps, each with a rubber bush and 2 studs. Looking at the manual the torque for these nuts is very low (virtually hand tight) and I have achieved this on 3 of the 4 nuits. The 4th nut just turns and turns without getting any tighter. Not sure whether it is just taking-up slack/squashing the rubber bush or whether the thread has failed on the stud or nut. Cant see that I have over-tightened it as I have been only hand tightening with a spanner. Thinking that it is more likely to be a problem with the stud rather than the nut and that the clamp will have to come out for inspection.  If it is the stud that has failed, can it be repaired? Does it make sense to leave the repair until after the MOT - cant see that it is going to cause the car to fail?  

Just realised that the reason that the holes in my UJs appear smaller than expected is because I am looking at the allen key socket of the grub screws that I put in place 3+ years ago! 

Getting ready to put my Herald 13/60 back on the road - it has been laid-up for past 5 years.  Some time ago, (3 years+) I replaced the UJs and remember that the new joints came with long nipples which had to be removed after greasing. So each joint now has a small hole and I am wondering whether these holes need to be plugged. Rimmers do a Grease Nipple Plug (basically a grub screw) 1/4 x 3/8 but the holes in my joints look much smaller than this.  So, firstly must I plug the holes and second does the same grub screw fit all Herald 13/60 UJs or are some metric?    

Decided to ditch Dynamo and Control Box and replace with an alternator. Whilst awaiting delivery just prepping the wiring. As I understand it the alterantor has 3 terminals (2 x power and 1 x ignition light).Looking online the advice seems to be to put 1 x power to the +ve of solenoid and 1 x power as the feed to lights/horn/ignition. Any reason I shouldnt put the 2 x power direct to solenoid +ve and the take one wire from solenoid +ve as power feed to lights/horn/ignition? This would just seem a neater solution.