Bradders

Hi Just an update but a happy one. I fitted the new spindles and was fortunate that the bores were not worn on the carb body so the fit was snug. This was an improvement but not enough to get it right. However, after tweaking the float heights and replacing a kinked/pinched fuel line I now have it running better than I can remember.  On the subject of the initial jet settings and the number of flats to turn I now understand where I went wrong. I was following the usual advice of tightening the jet up all the way and backing off 12 flats but this did not take into account the amount needed to first get the jet level with the bridge (something that most guides seem to omit or at least the ones I have read). It took 6 or 7 flats to reach this point before applying the 12 so around 19 in total. Now it all makes sense! With the other changes I barely need to go beyond the 12 to have it smooth and even. Now I just need to get some welding done....... Cheers

Hi Thanks for the replies. I guess I was hoping for something of a quick fix. No worries, I will move on to the next thing and revisit the dizzy another day. I notice that there are whole new dizzys with electronic ignition for sale on Ebay for less than I paid for the petronix kit years ago. Are these all trash or have prices come down? seems too good to be true... Cheers

Hi I was looking at the dizzy on my MkIV and I was surprised to find a surprising amount of 'play' in the baseplate. The car is from 71 and the dizzy is a Delco (not sure of the number) with the knurled vacuum adjuster on the outside. It was converted to Pertronix EI a while back as well so I can easily grab the post that the old points used to locate on and give the baseplate quite a wiggle. I guess I would have expected this to be fairly tight but I can can move it laterally and up/down quite a bit. Is this normal or could it be a culprit for my rough idling/running issues? Cheers  

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Hi Whilst waiting for the new shafts to turn up I came across a version of the shaft modified with rubber o rings to help form a seal on Ebay (search for 'SU CARB HS2 new throttle shaft.'). A bit late for me but it looks like a good idea. Anyone got any opinions or, better still, experience of them. Pic below Cheers

Hi New shafts on order and hopefully they will be here within the week. I will give them a go and post an update afterwards. Thanks for the responses and help. Cheers  

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Hi I have fitted standard AAN needles. I believe this is what was there before but the old ones did not have markings. Earlier today I decided to strip the carbs to check on the throttle spindles (the manifold nuts were definitely  tight). There was some play, not much but enough to notice (see the pic). Not sure if this is the cause or a contributory factor but I will replace them anyway. One other thing I noticed was that the heat shield I have appeared to be 'delaminating', it's not stainless steel but a sheet of layered material. I will ,leave that off when i refit to see if the makes a difference.  Cheers

Hi I have fitted standard AAN needles. I believe this is what was there before but the old ones did not have markings. Earlier today I decided to strip the carbs to check on the throttle spindles (the manifold nuts were definitely  tight). There was some play, not much but enough to notice (see the pic). Not sure if this is the cause or a contributory factor but I will replace them anyway. One other thing I noticed was that the heat shield I have appeared to be 'delaminating', it's not stainless steel but a sheet of layered material. I will ,leave that off when i refit to see if the makes a difference.  Cheers

Hi I have fitted standard AAN needles. I believe this is what was there before but the old ones did not have markings. Earlier today I decided to strip the carbs to check on the throttle spindles (the manifold nuts were definitely  tight). There was some play, not much but enough to notice (see the pic). Not sure if this is the cause or a contributory factor but I will replace them anyway. One other thing I noticed was that the heat shield I have appeared to be 'delaminating', it's not stainless steel but a sheet of layered material. I will ,leave that off when i refit to see if the makes a difference.  Cheers

Well I have it running for some time before I start adjusting anything and it doesnt take long to get the temp needle to the centre of the gauge in this weather. As for my driveway punts it is just a relatively safe place to try it out. The last time I tried to be more adventurous I ended up stranded at the end of my road! That time it was sticking floats (now fixed hopefully). My driveway is a bit of a slope  but it really struggles to pull it the 20 or 30 yards up it at the moment. Cheers 

Thanks for the reply. Changing the jets and needles was one of many things I had to do to get my car going again after a long time sat dormant (best part of 10 years). In that time the carbs had become gummed up with old fuel and a few of the rubber fuel lines had disintegrated. So i have been stripping and  cleaning everything I can but a set of new jets and needles seemed a better bet in this area. As of right now, everything is back together and running in the garage. I can get it started and it will rev freely enough but the idle is rough and any load on the engine (going up and down my driveway) causes it to cough and splutter. Timing appears fine at  what I  think is 6btdc (I only have unlabelled notches on the crankshaft pulley and a single pointer  on  the timing chain casing to go by). I think a vacuum leak is a likely issue but so far I have failed to find one (spraying wd40 at the suspect areas when the engine is warm and idling hasn't shown anything). Apart from the manifold connections and the throttle spindles is there anywhere else to check?   Thanks again.

Hi I have new needles and jets recently fitted to the twin HS2s on my mkIV and I am trying to set them up following the well trodden path described in the Haynes manual. I can follow it fine but it seems I need to enrich each carb by at least 10 flats above the initial 12 'default' setting to get it running smoothly and to respond correctly when lifting the piston a touch with the lifting pin. However, this setting gives me quite a black sooty exhaust emission indicating it's too rich. I guess all I can do is tweak it to a compromise but could I be missing something here which would lead to this behaviour? Furthermore,  although the setting is car-specific, I would be interested to know if 10 flats is typical, does anyone have an idea of the number needed to get it right on their car? Cheers Bradders  

Hi Thanks, that explains a lot. I asked this as I was attempting to follow the profile on the underside with insulation wrap (with difficulty) but then stopped to wonder why it was necessary and why not go flat across it. Live and learn. Cheers Andy

Hi all I am in the process on repairing and relining the standard tunnel on my MkIV and have a few, potentially dumb, questions. Firstly, what is the rectangular dish moulding on the top of the tunnel for? Is it to somehow help with the fitting of a radio or something as it appears to restrict the space in that area rather than ease it? Secondly, the rear most (towards bulkhead) ridge of this rectangular dish has a small metal plate fixed in place with 3 screws. I cannot see what this is for either - is something meant to attach to this? Lastly, my tunnel has a clutch footrest attached to it, is this normal as I cant see it on Rimmers etc? Cheers Bradders