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JumpingFrog

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JumpingFrog last won the day on July 9 2022

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  1. Last time I looked at car club deals, many of them for young drivers were for multi-car - e.g. you insure your daily and your classic together which I'm guessing isn't much use to OP. But maybe things changed. Ten years ago, when I was 19 and bought my Herald 13/60, Adrian Flux were cheapest, it was not much less than £1000, after that it decreased by roughly a third every year. Worth ringing around some specialists and seeing what they say, Lancaster, Peter James, Adrian Flux, Carole Nash, Footman James are good places to start, but unfortunately you might find they don't offer classic policies to under 25s. I don't think anyone is suggesting it, but adding a young driver as a named driver (when they're really the main driver) with an experienced driver as the main driver to bring the cost down isn't allowed (termed "fronting"). It was a really popular practice when I was learning to drive and a Corsa C cost something like £2500 to insure. In such a situation you also won't have a NCB, which is the only way to reduce policy cost until you reach at least 25 and get real classic car policies. Hope there is some way forward, would be a real shame to have something dull as a first car when you could have a Triumph.
  2. JumpingFrog

    Fuel pump

    The original pump you have there with the cast arm is the best type and easiest to rebuild (non-return valves held in with a plate and screws rather than staked into place), they're rather well made. I wouldn't throw it away in any case. Personally I would prefer to rebuild it, it's not too hard, I've done a few, but the last one turned out to be impossible to stop leaking. Overkill, but after that I gave up on mechanical pumps all together, and fitted an electric Huco pump in the boot.
  3. Shouldn't be heavy, always found my Herald very light, especially after driving modern super minis with cable clutches. My best guess, would be the swivel pins on the release fork are seized up - look at part 20, in the diagram below. They are retained in the fork casting by a small roll-pin (21), but should be able to turn 5 or 10 degrees in either direction (in turn allowing the release bearing to change orientation a little). However, I've often seen them seized in the casting. Unfortunately, it'd be impossible to rectify this issue without removing the gearbox. Of course you should also check all the parts are correct as glang mentions. There are other common issues in the clutch system, for example to top of the pedal, where it attaches to the master cylinder, wears out quickly (depending on driving style), but eventually becomes oval and elongated. And the pin that holds the release fork (26) is famous for dropping out, there are replacements with a mushroom head to prevent this.
  4. This plate looks like a Laycock design one. The plate that Rog removed with the blue springs is the type I've seen others sell and fitted to my car with a similar gearbox conversion, these were made by Borg & Beck (B&B). At some point B&B and Laycock both became part of AP, but I don't know when that was. The reason I bring this up, if you start mixing and matching parts, you can have other problems (besides physically not fitting). In the past I mixed a Laycock friction plate (but a standard 10-spline one) with a B&B clutch cover (not reproduction) and ended up with a clutch that wouldn't release. Presumably because the cover was set for a different height friction plate. However, I'm not sure what the best route forward is for you, but mixing reproduction clutch covers with old asbestos friction plates is not the path I would pick. Personally, I would either buy a NOS Laycock clutch cover and friction plate (probably the hardest combination to find), or easier find a NOS B&B clutch cover and fit the old friction plate.
  5. What do you want to use the car for? I think you have a lot of choices, Konis are mostly agreed on as being the best, other uprated brands such as Spax and Gaz get mixed reviews. Downside of Konis, cost and no adjustable spring seat and to adjust them you need to remove them from the car. I've abused Konis and now wouldn't use anything else for serious use. For a more budget option, I also heard good things about KYB, but I don't know how readily available they are these days. I also see some suppliers are offering "Monroe" branded shock absorbers, but I don't think these will be the same as the Monroe of old but maybe still better than the basic generic ones?
  6. After a Spitfire/Herald gearbox, 3-rail gearbox (4-synchro or 3-synchro), condition not that important as long as it's complete as I plan to rebuild anyway. Ideally somewhere in Lancashire or along the M62 corridor. TIA
  7. Others have noted tolerance issues with the Bastuck shafts, there was a thread on the TSSC forum: https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/8680-2nd-gear-seized-to-mainshaft/ I would suggest you complain, since the circlip groove is incorrect. If it was only the journals oversized, you could have it ground down. Had a similar issue with a shaft from a well known gearbox specialist.
  8. Im not sure what you mean, I was talking about buying a Tr7 4-speed laygear which are still easily available NOS and then changing your existing mainshaft gears to match. AFAIK, 1st and 3rd are always the same, but has at least 3 different types. I think you're referring to the splines on the mainshaft, which as you say are only for the synchro hubs and should be the same.
  9. Informed guess here, but I believe imperial strength goes R, S, T, V, X and these roughly correspond to 8.8, 9.8, 10.9 and 12.9. X is certainly very hard and only used in special places (brake calipers). I believe R/S is roughly 8.8: https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Kev-s_Blog.html I'm not convinced the new bolts supplied will be as strong as the originals, as a few years ago I was replacing the UJs on my car and decided to change the bolts, two of the bolts stretched while torquing them up, something I never experienced with the originals. I found some better originals and fitted those instead. The replacements I was supplied (from a classic car parts supplier), had 3 dash marks on the head, which I believe would correspond to metric 8.8. My originals were also marked 'V' grade. The small 5/16 bolts need to be done up pretty tight relative to their size (at least in the case of driveshafts) or they quickly come loose and distort the flange and make the holes oval, so whatever is used needs to be decent. The later change to 3/8 bolts don't seem to suffer as badly, and you can buy decent 3/8 bolts cheaply from Land Rover specialists.
  10. I don't think you'll get much advice other than to contact Mike, he's the only one doing such repairs to these gearboxes now. Finding the correct NOS laygear is unlikely, and 6-cylinder gearboxes suffer badly for wear. There is one expensive alternative, NOS UKC8749 is available, as is UKC8748WO (29T 1/2 sleeve) and UKC8750 (17T reverse idler). This is a late TR7 4-speed laygear with the stronger reverse teeth, assuming your GT6 gearbox isn't an early one (small synchros and different helix angle on 2nd?) it should mesh with your existing gears. But I know that when using single-rail parts in a 3-rail gearbox there can be issues with getting reverse to work correctly (two different spacer sleeves exist for reverse idler shaft).
  11. I'd be very wary of that clutch, it doesn't look right to me. The cover is laycock but the friction plate looks like a B&B refurb. I think that seller has just combined parts to make a kit, that theoretically will work together, but in practice I don't think they will. I know from experience that if you start mixing Laycock and B&B parts you will have issues. In my case it was a Laycock friction plate and a B&B cover, it wouldn't release, I assume because they both specified different plate thicknesses. The clutch plates do come up on eBay, but how long you'll be waiting I don't know. I managed to get one for my car after a few months waiting. Will work with a normal B&B clutch cover.
  12. Yes, the wire from the distributor goes to your coil, the negative side since a 13/60 is negative earth. I think it should be white/black, but as this wire suffers from heat and vibration they usually get swapped with whatever the PO had lying around. Can't help much with wiring a dynamo, I never had a car with that still had one. Sounds like potentially someone started converting your car to an alternator? Brown/green wire should be thin and brown/yellow should be thick, both should go to the control box. As you say, there should be no extra wires on the battery, a thick brown wire should come off the starter solenoid. Or if the brown wire really goes through the bulkhead to the dashboard, it's likely the main lighting feed, but this should be brown with a blue stripe. At this point it's probably worth unwrapping the loom in the engine bay, and seeing exactly what you have, especially if like one of my cars it already contains numerous dodgy joins and choc blocks. Good luck!
  13. That specific Toledo 1300 clutch was also fitted to the Morris Marina. But not all Marina, only early Marina 1300 (for one year only I believe). Later Marina 1300 switched to a larger clutch. The part is basically NLA, as standardthread said, not easy to source.
  14. The new pumps, I wouldn't use from what I've heard, too higher pressure, or risk of destroying the lobe on your cam - seems all pumps made now have the longer operating lever that needs a spacer. I would have previously to recommended the rebuild kit, especially if you can find an early pump with the forged operating lever and the valves that are retained with screws rather than being staked in, then everything is easy to rebuild. But last one I did, I couldn't get to stop leaking, and I really tried! So I'm more taken with electric pumps now, I've just fitted a Huco 133000 (near tank fitment) to my car along and although everything worked fine before, it's nice not having to worry about priming after long lay ups etc.
  15. I would also like to know, at the moment thinking of trying the polybush ones since NOS ones aren't easy to find either. My experience was that they're too wide, and the seal supplied is wrong and ineffective, I think it's the metal washers that are actually the problem, too thick. You can make them fit by spreading the upright (bit of threaded bar and some washers and nuts through the spring eye hole), but they don't last all that long. Similarly, if you tighten up the bolt to the specified torque in the manual, you won't be able to swivel the trunnion at all so that's best ignored if you want your suspension to work properly. Edit: I had a look on evilbay, and these at least seem to look correct (unlike the cheaper blue ones), anyone tried?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363046573771
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